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2 Answers

Zone 5 Basement buildout - any suggestions for my plan?

We are in Zone 5 (Spokane, WA). House is 1930 Cape Cod style brick veneer. The basement is concrete and is in good condition (according to the home inspector 4+ years ago...). There is some efflorescence along what I assume is the frost line a foot or so above the cement floor. There are no bulk water issues that I can see. Actually, it's been raining for 3 days straight and I haven't had any dampness or bulk water problems. The grading on the exterior is OK, but I am going to improve the situation with some gutters in a couple places.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Sean Cotter | Jun 21 13
7 Answers

Spray Foam Odor Help

Hello and thanks for looking at my post. I'm obviously new to this and am here out of desperation. I had a company install ThermoSeal closed and open cell into my home recently (last week 6/12,13,14). The closed cell has no odor but the open cell has a strong chemical odor. I've left windows open and have 3 fans going. The company put closed cell in all 2x4 framing and 2" on the roof deck then covered it with 6-8" (well thats what they said...Ive found many areas they were short or thin and they are returning to fix it) all of the 2x6 framing has the open cell.

In General questions | Asked By joe k | Jun 17 13
1 Answer

New HVAC and sizing...

I live in Auburn GA., which is about 40 miles northeast of Atlanta. My home is a four sided brick 2 story on an unfinished basement. It was built 13 years ago. HVAC system needs replacing due to continued mechanical problems.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Charles Craven | Jun 21 13
6 Answers

Insulating on exterior of stone foundation

I am in the process of excavating and waterproofing a stone foundation on a century home. I am coating the wall with a rubber sealer, then wrapping foundation with a dimple membrane to grade height.

Would there be any benefit to adding rigid styrofoam up to the grade height? The stone wall from grade to first floor is 2 ft 6' . I don't want to cover this portion as I want the stone exposed. The interior stone wall is to be exposed as well. The basement floor has styrofoam insulation under it and has infloor heating. Any advice is appreciated. I am in the blue climate zone.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Doug Bentley | Jun 21 13
4 Answers

How to retrofit a metal skin pole building?

I am up in Seabeck/Silverdale WA State (4c zone) area and have inherited a pole
building work shop.

It was not used for a long time and mice had gotten into the insulation and destroyed it.

In General questions | Asked By Kelsey Thomas | Jun 18 13
3 Answers

Clarification on 2009 IRC code requirement vs what's stated in article on building a Cathedral Ceiling

From the article I read: (i capitalized what im trying to get clarification on)

If you want to install a combination of rigid foam ON TOP of your roof sheathing and air-permeable insulation between your rafters, you need to be sure that your rigid foam is thick enough to keep your roof sheathing above the dew point. Guidelines to achieve that goal are included in the 2009 International Residential Code (IRC).

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Alan Shuman | Jun 22 13
2 Answers

SPF fish odor: How can we get rid of it?

ceiling sprayed between rafters. Dropped ceiling (drywalled) attached below. One area open through HRV unit.

In General questions | Asked By Bernard Morel | Jan 28 13
6 Answers

Why not integrate window exterior into WRB?

I've recently noticed that several folks are not advocating flashing the exterior side of windows (flanged or unflanged) into the water-resistive barrier (WRB), but instead propose that a properly flashed rough opening (RO) and an airtight interior is sufficient to manage water drainage and air sealing. Notwithstanding window manufacturer recommendations, would it not be prudent to flash the top and sides of the window to limit what water can make it into the RO in the first place? It's not much extra effort/expense.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Thompson | Feb 3 13
6 Answers

Renovation with interior poly vapor barrier

We are working on a renovation including an addition of an existing house in Zone 5.

Existing wall: 2x6 @ 16" o.c. w/ fiberglass and an interior poly vapor barrier.

We would like to improve the R-value of the assembly, but will not be removing the plaster from the interior face of the majority of the walls. This means we do not have the opportunity to remove the vapor barrier.

As a result, do we lose the opportunity to add exterior polyiso, because of the resulting vapor barrier sandwich?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Chris Harris | Jun 20 13
2 Answers

Sizing windows to correspond with advanced framed window openings

I'm designing a house and struggling a bit with window sizing in regards to advanced framing. I've noticed that more than one manufacturer offers standard sizes, in addition to custom-sizing their units in 1/8th inch increments. The standard size widths are in 4 inch increments, which accomodates the standard building practice of using two studs on each side of a window. This holds for off-the-shelf as well as catalog sizing.

In Green building techniques | Asked By myles freeman | Jun 20 13
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