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6 Answers

Is this too much door sill cantilever?

I've got a thick siding profile, so my door sill is going to cantilever out 5-6" past the framing.
I'm not sure how to best anchor a stone, or hardwood sill considering the potential weight of foot traffic.
I could pour a concrete sill over anchors epoxied into the stem wall, but it may look weird.

Those with exterior foam walls and rainscreens might run into a similar issue?

I've got:
2x6 wall
1" sheathing
1" furring
2" thick clapboard profile
1" trim (installed over claps)

In Green building techniques | Asked By Richard Baumgarten | Dec 18 12
7 Answers

Best tape to use on EPS foam around windows (Protecto Wrap?)

Working on my ICF home and getting near setting windows. I was thinking I would use the Protecto Wrap (BT25XL) however it is getting cold, and looking at the product specs it calls for 45 degree temps to install, which we will be below. So I was looking into the Super Stick product and it can go down to below 0. However I can not find if it can be used on EPS foam or sticks well. I would assume if it did, it would mention it as does the BT25XL.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 12 12
8 Answers

Air seal existing house

I recently bought a house in Northern Virginia (Zone 4). The house was built in 1982 and is all electric with heatpump.
Since moving in I have had the roof fixed/replaced (no ventilation originally and exhaust fans terminating in the attic = lots of moisture damage), replaced the bathroom fans with Broan fans that have programmable Z-wave controllers to provide continuous exhaust ventilation (and terminates outside the house with 6" ducts), air sealed the attic, and added cellulose insulation to the attic.

In General questions | Asked By Francois Strydom | Dec 14 12
1 Answer

How should I fill in space between a slab floor and the perimeter walls?

The floor has radiant coils and insulation underneath but the perimeter was not insulated when the slab was poured. We cut a trough (1.5" wide) and now want to fill it with insulation. Any suggestions on how to do this? The house is in the Northeast and is essentially sitting on dry sand.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Molly PIckett | Dec 17 12
5 Answers

Our hearts go out to the people of Newtown, Conn.

Words cannot express the heartbreak we feel at the tragedy in Newtown.

As many of you know, Taunton Press, the publisher of Fine Homebuilding and Green Building Advisor, is headquartered in Newtown. The lives of Taunton employees are firmly rooted in the Newtown community, and our lives are all intertwined. We are united by all kinds of connections -- as colleagues, friends, family, and Americans. Our hearts are broken, and our thoughts and prayers are with you.

In General questions | Asked By Martin Holladay | Dec 15 12
10 Answers

What is the best way to insulate a central supporting post?

We are building a "High performance" 30'x34' house in northern NH. R32 ICF foundation in place and capped . R30 subslab 25 PSI XPS in place. Unfortunately builder placed a central steel/concrete filled lolly column (supporting post) for the 34' beam of the subfloor down the center penetrating the 6" XPS to a central footer. Not sure how much of an issue this is but worried about this penetration. Slab not yet poured. Put on hold to consider alternatives.

We have a number of options:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Phil Lawson | Dec 12 12
11 Answers

Where should the air barrier go on non-vented cathedral roof?

I am building a small house with a vaulted ceiling and a non-vented roof. I plan to use 2x10 rafters with fiberglass batts and 2 inches of foam on top of the roof sheeting. An asphalt shingle roof will go on top. I'm confused about where the air barrier should go. Drawings I have seen put it right under the roofing shingles and others have it under the foam. Also, what are my options for material for the air barrier. Do I need to do the entire roof with peel-and-stick or is there a cheaper way. I'm in Northern California just 2 miles from the ocean.


In Green building techniques | Asked By Stephen Houlihan | Dec 12 12
3 Answers

What is the best type of heating to have in Massachusetts?

Our house was designed by my Architect father and was built in 1979. It's in Groton, MA. Currently we have the original 33 year old HS Taum tankless oil/wood boiler with 7 zones. The oil company that services it says it needs to be replaced. I wanted to use the wood side but they said the door is rusted out and can't be used. The house is 6700 sf currently used as a 3 family. It's a passive solar hybrid with solar hot water-two 125 gallon holding tanks, FHW BB, 2x6 construction, 2x12 rafters, fiberglass batt insulation, Anderson windows and a wood stove.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Maria Hars | Dec 16 12
12 Answers

Please explain how foil-faced roof sheathing works

Some say that foil-faced roof sheathing can reduce the temperature in an attic. I'm unclear how this works. Considering two types of attic designs:

1 - The attic is ventilated, and the insulation is laid on top of the ceiling drywall.
2 - The attic is not ventilated, and the insulation is attached tight to the roof sheathing.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Robert Feibleman | Dec 13 12
9 Answers

Blown Cellulose vs Blown Fiberglass

Hello Everyone. I own a four family apartment building in St. Louis and I'm considering having insulation installed in the attic, first floor ceiling, and basement ceiling. I

The attic contains original R-9 (roughly) insulation. The first floor ceiling probably contains little to no insulation and I'm looking more for noise reduction. The basement double as garage parking for the tenants with existing unfinished drywall installed. There is no existing insulation underneath the drywall.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By RICK LEPPO | Dec 12 12
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