Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

11 Answers

I recently installed a SIPS roof system with a 30' span with purlins. The owners have moved in. They are complaining about the panels making "pops" particularly in the morning when the temperatures rise. Has anyone else experienced this? Any solutions?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Brain Poster | May 24 11
3 Answers

Is it a good idea to use drywall adhesive on the ceiling drywall ?
On the wall drywall ?

I am trying to decide if I should go to the trouble of using drywall adhesive. It appears not to be used much around this area, if at all (Western Arkansas). The hardware and box stores don't even seem to carry it.

I was thinking about using it on my ceiling and exterior walls because they are constructed from rough cut lumber and the surface, or course, is not going to be nearly as even as if I had used milled lumber.

In General questions | Asked By Jim Wright | May 24 11
4 Answers

I am trying to decide on attic insulation. I have read the merits of spay open cell up against attic roof. The whole triangle space then becomes conditioned from leakage up from second floor. Open cell only gives about R16-18 anyway.
I have read the merits of 18 inches of blown fiberglass and the realization that it slowly settles and doesn't seal air movement up from second floor either.

Does it make energy sense and economic sense to spray open cell 6 inches up into roof decking and spray 6 inches open cell between ceiling joists to give R-30 plus??

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Snowden | May 26 11
8 Answers

I have been considering for quite a while on what to use to go under my floor joists to support the insulation and seal it off from rodents and insects, yet not be a vapor barrier or retain water if there are any water leaks from plumbing.

The house rests on (36) 6"x6"x32" red heart cedar posts which in turn rest on 10" dia. x 3" high concrete piers. The posts are crossed braced both ways and the crawl space will remain open, hence the need to insulate between the floor joists. The joists are 2"x8" and the insulation will be batts of Roxul.

In General questions | Asked By Jim Wright | May 24 11
5 Answers

Hi there,

Developing a detail for Northern California. We don't have any exterior foam in this project. The house has plywood sheathing with 3/8" furring strips to create rainscreen void.

Do we place nailing fin for Marvin (1" nailing fin) window directly to the sheathing or furr it out 3/8" to match the rainscreen? We are cladding the building with 3/4 horizontal wood siding. I'm thinking directly to the sheathing and then have deeper window trim.

Thanks so much...

In Green building techniques | Asked By Daniel Weaver | May 23 11
2 Answers

Does any one have a source for engineering-based information on wood burning -- a book, definitive article, or web site?

In General questions | Asked By william goodwin | May 18 11
4 Answers

Another great publication by the guys at the Cold Climate Housing Research Center:

In Green products and materials | Asked By Raff Winks | May 19 11
5 Answers

Hello, I have two unrelated questions.

First, in a home with walls approaching R-40 and roof at R-60, that is relatively "tight", should we consider a modulating boiler/hydro air heating system? Or is a modulating furnace a better option keeping costs in mind? I guess what I am asking is, is there any truth to a furnace providing a "dry" heat, compared to a hydro system? And, if so should it be a consideration in the decision making process?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By james magner | May 23 11
33 Answers

In terms of thermal bridging, heating, etc.... is there anything you would do to improve them because my wife an I are thinking of building and we like the ideas presented in these plans. Any opinions would be appreciated.
John and Rebecca

In Plans Review | Asked By rebecca Surprenant | May 15 11
1 Answer

I have a old 1,500 sq ft rancher with 5/12 pitch roof located in Virginia . The HVAC system is in the attic, and I am looking for an economical way to condition the attic space or to eliminate the wide temperature swings that occur in winter and summer.

I can use Icyene to put closed-cell foam in between the rafters, but I feel the cost is excessive and the payback would be too long.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By bob crossman | May 23 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation

Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!