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3 Answers

"Pretty Good" Window Manufacturer?

Hi All,

I see GBA has a few articles on top-of-the-line window manufacturers. What about "Pretty Good" recommendations?

I live in zone 4A, and have my goals for U-Factor and SHGC specs, but I'm not sure what manufacturers to trust. Is it pretty much dependent on the quality of the local dealer?

Consumer Reports has a pretty limited list of ratings, and some surprising recommendations (they like windows from Home Depot and Lowes), and they aren't too impressed with fiberglass.

So, for those folks shooting for "Pretty Good", what manufacturers should I be considering?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Clay Whitenack | Aug 21 15
4 Answers

Build house on granite shelf and leaving it exposed as the floor

Hello All,

I'm looking at a lot that has a magnificent granite shelf that's about 12' thick. My thought is build a 2 level home with the upper using the granite as the floor and the lower floor having the same rough cut stone as the back wall -- see photo (visual : the rock granite shelf is rectangular box 12' thick X 200' long -- the top level is used as the top floor right up to the edge and the lower floor "falls" off the edge into the lower floor).

Some of the questions is have are:

In General questions | Asked By marc morin | Aug 22 15
2 Answers

No soffits & under-insulated roof create mold concerns

Hello All,

I have a 116 year old home in Denver, CO (zone 5B) where I had no insulation in my 1.5 story home. I hired an insulation contractor to insulate my home that had no insulation and freezing pipes, which they did. Now I'm concerned about mold from condensed water vapor. I'd like to make sure it's all to code and safe from concerns now that we are going to re-roof from hail damage.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Peter Czarnecki | Aug 19 15
2 Answers

Mold on wall sheathing?

We are having a new house built, currently being framed. I stopped by after work today and saw what looks like it could be mold on the brand new wall sheathing. It could also be some sort of ink I suppose, since some lettering on other boards were a very similar color. I was just hoping to get some optnions from the board since you all appear more knowledgeable than me, and possibly save myself from calling out our GC on a non-issue :) Thanks in advance!

In General questions | Asked By Jon Martin | Aug 21 15
4 Answers

Attic ventilation

2,100 sf ranch style house on a slab was flipped by contractor prior to our purchase in December 2014. Gas hot air furnace and HVAC unit, new in attic, replaced outdated equipment. Flipper added blown in insulation in attic to R38 and when testing of ducts failed -- the ducts were brought up to code. Living space was also evaluated for air tightness and leaks were resolved.

In General questions | Asked By Ray Gendreau | Aug 21 15
5 Answers

Net metering

I was on another site and heard something. Now I dont know if it is true but I got to thinking.

What I heard is that in Michigan the utilities want the net metering customers to be charged full rate for all the electricity used and then be given a credit of 4 cents per KWH for what you produced. In effect you dont get to use what you produce but share it with the grid and are paid 4 cents per kwh, Then you have to buy all your electricity at the standard rate.

In General questions | Asked By Robert Hronek | Aug 20 15
3 Answers

Split air line set deformation question

Hello All,

I'm installing my my own split-air system with three zones. One is an 18k ceiling cassette that has a 1/2" and 3/8" line-set. Despite my best efforts, the 1/2" copper got deformed when making a corner. It's not kinked, exactly, but definitely deformed. So my question is, will it work with the deformation or have I botched the line-set, altogether? I've attached pictures.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Scott Mcllarky | Aug 20 15
7 Answers

Detailing stoop slab: concrete to wood

I am building a new house which will be clad in full-thickness natural stone veneer. A stoop slab just outside the front door will be poured on top of a cold room that's part of the foundation.

My concrete contractor, of course, wants to pour the slab right against the rim joist. That's not going to happen. But what SHOULD happen?

With the masonry veneer, the wall above includes a 1" air space--should I have the guy leave the 1" also between the slab and the rim? How would I ensure proper water drainage out of that space?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andy Chappell-Dick | May 18 13
9 Answers

How to I properly insulate and seal an HVAC plenum through a garage slab?

Hello,

I have a difficult situation. I had to completely gut the existing HVAC system in my 1991 house due to numerous major issues (flex tubing like Swiss cheese facing into the plenum, kinks, leaks, a branch off the end of the trunk, returns in the wrong place, missing registers in some rooms, too many in others, etc. After ripping everything out in the house and basement, Now the trunk is all metal, sealed, insulated, properly sized, reduced correctly, dampers on all branches, etc However, I found another problem.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jeff Richardson | Aug 10 15
3 Answers

Furring orientation over exterior mineral wool panels

Our office (architectural) is considering using exterior mineral wool with furring strips to create a rain screen. The assembly would be like this, from interior to exterior:

5/8" GWB painted w/ semi-permeable paint
2x6 studs w/ r-21 fiberglass batt insulation
1/2" plywood sheathing
Henry Blueskin WRB (fully adhered housewrap w/ 29 perms) which would double as air-barrier
2" Roxul Comfortboard IS
1x furring strips
vertical wood board siding

In Green building techniques | Asked By Daniel Stewart | Aug 17 15
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