Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

1 Answer

Everybody has opinions on windows. If you've spent a lot of time debating wood-framed windows vs. fiberglass windows vs. vinyl windows, you'll probably be interested in Mike Eliason's recent intelligent ruminations on the topic.

His latest window article is posted on his Brute Force Collaborative blog.

In PassivHaus | Asked By Martin Holladay | Oct 4 11
13 Answers

We have a 2 x 4 house with standard framing in Calgary (very cold and semi-arid - zone 6).

It is a full gut job, so we can insulate from inside or out, aiming for R-50 walls. We're thinking an offset frame wall with 4.5" spray foam;1.5" of XPS; synthetic stucco with appropriate water control. Existing 2 x 4 stud cavities would get cellulose. The foam is the air/vapor control layer so no housewrap or poly. But building on the exterior with a sloped roof means little space to get R-50 above the top place and still provide adequate roof ventilation.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By C Chrusch | Sep 27 11
6 Answers

The house I bought last year has a fieldstone wall and I am undertaking another round of repairs this fall. I have read that it is possible to jack up the sill of the house all around in order to put a capillary break between the fieldstone wall and the wood framing members of the house. See:

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-041-rubble-foundat...

This seems like a good idea in our case; the building science document describes putting a form of plastic as a membrane to protect the framing of the house from the stone below.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By rich cowen | Sep 17 11
11 Answers

So I’m hoping to build a house with exterior foam over the OSB sheathing, and plan to go with “innie” windows, with the WRB between the foam and OSB. A draining house wrap is often recommended for this (“Mind the Gap, Eh!”). Tyvek has StuccoWrap and DrainWrap, Green Guard has RainDrop, Berry Plastics has WeatherTrek and Barricade Drainage Wrap. Others?

I was wondering what experience people have with various products, and if there is a reason to prefer one over the others, or to avoid any? Cost? Convenience? Effectiveness? Durability?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ian Brown | Aug 26 11
12 Answers

GBA has a tab on every page labeled "Strategies & Details." That's the gateway to our slowly expanding detail library, where members have access to construction details.

We are well aware of the limitations of our detail library, and are committed to improving it. Our budget will allow significant additions to the library in the months ahead.

We're inviting GBA members to comment on details they'd like to see added. What's missing? What would you like to see?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Martin Holladay | Apr 26 11
4 Answers

Hope other readers find this thread useful. I know I'm going to use it. (I've seen them be incredibly popular on other boards.)

When, god help you, you just can't find the specific information you're looking for, but you know it's here somewhere.

If the search function works properly, you should be able to find this thread by searching "find the thread"

And then follow-up questions, if any, can end up in the appropriate thread.

--------------------------------

My first where's-that-thread question:

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Oct 2 11
7 Answers

We installed rigid foam board on interior ceilings, gun foamed all seams and edges, and now installing eco touch insulation without kraft paper. We could not get inulation for 2x4 walls without kraft paper, so we remove the paper before we install, thank you

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By louie rodriguez | Sep 30 11
3 Answers

I am beginning a LEED targeted project and have an rater on board. I also have an engineer who I am using, but this framing is not something he has done before. Is there a resource with standard calculations for load and sheer that I could point him towards?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Cleus Dalglish-Schommer | Sep 30 11
5 Answers

Water heater to be installed in a heated basement and the home has 4 people living in it with 2 full bathrooms. Can I use the heat pump to dehumidify as well?

The location is eastern PA.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By DJ Tejeski | Sep 29 11
4 Answers

Our installer has so far only installed dampers in the supply ducts. Wouldn’t this cause some pressure imbalances in the off zone rooms when the blower is running?

In Mechanicals | Asked By David Adams | Oct 2 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!