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2 Answers

How should I insulate an octagon gazebo roof?

I am designing a 15' Octagon Gazebo that will be a three season building with a door and windows. I am designing it with a 6' cupola to accommodate a 52" ceiling fan. The roof designed (2 by 8 rafters) is open with no ceiling joist.

This will be an "unheated" room, but I could see us using a space heater in the spring and fall to enjoy the gazebo a little longer (live in Minnesota). I was thinking it would be nice to have some roof insulation to keep the room from heating up too much in the summer. Can I insulate? If so what is the best option?

Thank you for any advice!

In General questions | Asked By Timothy Baube | Apr 9 16
7 Answers

Can you place an electric on-demand hot water heater in line with a tanked hot water heater?

I was given an electric on-demand water heater. I have an extremely long run and it takes quite some time for the hot water to reach the kitchen sink. I was thinking of placing the electric heater inline--that way we would not be running the water down the drain waiting for the arrival of hot water. I am thinking than the electric hot water heater would stop heating once the thermostat sensed the water was hot enough going through the coils. Not certain though...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Gregory Jones | Apr 11 16
21 Answers

Interior trim for outie windows in thick wall construction

Hi all,

I think I have made a mistake and need some strategies on how to fix it.

I have a new home construction with exterior rigid foam. I am planning "outie" windows. When I ordered the windows, I didn't think about the interior trim strategy and the windows came with the standard interior trim pieces (not sure the terminology) attached. In other words, the window is set at the exterior, the window trim extends back into the house 3" or so, and then I have another 3" or so of no trim until I get to where the interior wall will be.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Clay Whitenack | Apr 7 16
16 Answers

Anyone back-vented Hardie lap siding over exterior insulation?

At this point we plan on building a 2x4 wall with dense pack cellulose (r-12), then 1/2" plywood, 2 layers of 2" fiber faced polyiso (r-26), WRB, 1x3 strapping and then siding. Can we use Hardie lap or Hardie panel siding? Likely a question for Hardie but they will likely say they want direct contact with sheathing and if foam, then no more than 1" thick. Their install instructions imply direct contact with sheathing but I don't see any restrictions against fastening to strapping....but maybe I missed that. Also, i'm guessing that strapping 1' O.C.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Robert Alf | Jan 11 12
2 Answers

Distance from retaining wall to house wall

We are working on plans for a new house in Western Wisconsin, and have a sloping site. We are working on a plan to have all critical living spaces on the lower floor to make it easier as we age. My original thought was to have the lower level as a walk out basement, but insulating and waterproofing a below grade wall seems expensive and difficult. There is about a 6' to 8' difference in elevation in 30 feet of slope, so a retaining wall behind the house could be 6' to 10 feet in height. It would probably be stepped in 2 or 3 tiers as necessary--space isn't a problem.

In General questions | Asked By Jim Erdman | Apr 11 16
11 Answers

Building energy efficient on a budget Zone 4

My wife and I are planning to build a house and we would like some advice, suggestions, caveats, etc. We want it to be as energy efficient as possible within our budget. The house will be built in central Kentucky, zone 4. We tried to keep it as simple as possible. It will be a modern barn style. Four walls, four corners, straight gable metal roof, vertical board and batten siding, no dormers or bumpouts. The long side will face almost due south so we can take advantage of passive solar. The first floor is 1600 sq. ft. The second floor has only 2 bedrooms and a bath and is 750 sq. ft.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kevin Jones | Apr 5 16
1 Answer

Do the "channels" in the Insofast product reduce the efficiency of this choice for exterior insulation?

I really like the idea of one product for insulation/ capillary break and insofast seems to remedy this. BUT as the other articles have indicated, those wiring channels and even the vertical channels are a concern. Has anyone done any research into this? A guy would hate to talk this product up to a client and then realize that we are going through a lot of work for a product that doesn't meet expectations.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Marty Munroe | Apr 10 16
15 Answers

Reversed Arctic Wall in Zone 7

To all,

In my looking for the best wall for my new build this summer; 1300 s.f., single story, Zone 7 far northern Minnesota 9,000- almost 11,000 HDD, 70 to 80s kind of humid summers and very cold (-30 to -40F) winters.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steve | Jan 2 16
3 Answers

What is a healthy product to use to level uneven plywood under new wood floating floor?

Our second floor of our home has some areas with dips and uneven. I researched tar paper and it is unhealthy. What is a healthy way to build up the low spots? We are putting down a solid wood floor with a thick pad underlayment and we are going to float it.

In General questions | Asked By Bill Allard | Apr 10 16
8 Answers

Carport conversion

converting a large carport into living space... will be building floor with i joists... there is a concrete floor there... the walls will be 2x6 with r6 zipwall and spray foam inside of that ...Zone 3. The "crawl" underneath the subfloor will only be ranging from 9 inches to 13 inches. Should I just put batt insulation in the floor joists? or lay rigid foam on the slab under the joists?

In General questions | Asked By Dean Sandbo | Apr 8 16
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