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2 Answers
Is slab edge caulking necessary?

SLAB HAS 2" RIGID FOAM AND VAPOR BARRIER, WE HAVE INSTALLED RADIANT FLOOR HEAT AND AFTER A YEAR, THE EDGE OF THE SLAB HAS A 1/8 GAP ALL AROUND THE FOUNDATION EDGE. SHOULD WE FILL THIS WITH A HIGH QUALITY SILICONE OR LEAVE IT ALONE. WE WILL BE INSTALLING FLOORING SOON AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THIS WOULD BE A BENEFIT.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By CHRIS | Jan 3 10
11 Answers
Need permeable exterior panel

I am looking for an exterior panel which, when painted, will produce a stucco-like appearance.... I did this once with MDO plywood painted with a flat exterior latex to which I added very fine sand...The visual result was quite good,and a lot less expensive than true stucco, but MDO plywood is essentially a vapor barrier....I have been searching the internet for a paintable panel which is permeable....Certain-teed and Hardie produce cement fiber panels , but they are only about 5% wood fiber.

In General questions | Asked By Don | Dec 29 09
7 Answers
Masonry Heater in Superinsulated Home

I am wondering if installing a small masonry heater in a superinsulated home is a good idea? I am in the process of designing my home and would like to have a center fireplace/hearth as the focal point of the first floor. I also would like to supplement my heating system and hot water heating with wood. My home will be located in north central Vermont, two story, and 1800 sq.ft total. We are aiming for R-40 walls and R-60 attic. Will a masonry heater overheat my home? Is there a better option for adding wood heat?

In General questions | Asked By Graham Mink | Dec 27 09
7 Answers
How should I insulate my roof?

I am building a log house and am at the point of insulating my roof. It is a metal roof with 2x10 rafters. The guys I am hiring to insulate said I have a couple of options. Condensed fiberglass R-30 batts are out because they are special order and I can't get them for 2wks and the guys are coming next week. I could put 2x2 furring strips to create the 12" I need for air flow and do regular R-30. I could do spray foam. They said 1". and then do the regular R-30. This woul give me about R-37. Or I could do blown in fibergalss insulation.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Amy | Dec 31 09
6 Answers
What are the best sealers for concrete block walls and concrete slab floors, when applied from the inside.

As noted in the webinar, stopping moisture at the outside face of an assembly is always best, but for older (1950's & 60's era) concrete block walls and concrete slab floors below grade, what type of sealer products or other techniques work best to try to prevent moisture penetration, and subsequent musty smells? Thank you.

In Webinar Follow-up Q&A | Asked By Rick Neumann | Dec 21 09
1 Answer
Link to Dr. Wolfgang Feist dialogue

For those looking for the link to the recent dialogue with Dr. Wolgang Feist, the founder of the Passivhaus Institut in Germany, it's here:
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/forgotten-pioneer...

In PassivHaus | Asked By Martin Holladay | Dec 30 09
2 Answers
Converting a garage into an office?

Existing attached garage: Slab on grade, uninsulated slab, uninsulated walls. Live in northern California, in Marin County - close to the coast. No moisture problems on slab - seems pretty dry.

I was going to put in a sub floor as close as possible to existing slab - frame directly on top of slab.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Daniel | Dec 29 09
5 Answers
Energy Efficient Options for Small Outbuilding...

I'm looking for energy efficient options for heating a yurt and an adjoining separate small structure (an approximately 100 square foot bathroom--a composting toilet and tub). LP and electricity will be available. I have a propane "wood stove" available for the yurt but I doubt that it will be efficient....but then, not much will be efficient in a minimally insulated yurt. The adjoining bathroom building needs a small heat source.

We live in the Foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains...a moderate climate with 5600 heating days. We need heat for about four months every year.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ed Welch | Dec 23 09
4 Answers
basement leak from a footing drain

I have been in my house for 21/2 years, the house was built in 2005, I am the original owner. We have had very wet fall/winter 15" above the normal. We noticed the basement is leaking where the floor meets the poured concrete wall, only when it rains very hard(lately-just started leaking in the last 2 months.) What do I need to know to talk intelligently to a basement expert coming to my house to asses the problem. He suspects it is footing drain, which I did not know I even had in my home. This was not explained to me by the builder or real estate agent.

In General questions | Asked By Debby Jennings | Dec 28 09
1 Answer
Controlling moisture under a home with a small crawl space.

The house was built in 1925 in SW Florida (Fort Myers) with traditional floor joists, sub-flooring, and hardwood floors. There has always been a moisture issue under the house, mold and rotting joists. There is about 2 1/2 feet of crawl space; previous owners had put sand down and a humidistat controlled fan drawing air out of one of the vents in the foundation (approx 12" x 20") What else can be done to prevent future damage?

In General questions | Asked By Dominick | Dec 30 09
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