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3 Answers

Corrugated metal systems?

I'm planning a small structure in hot, humid Florida (climate zone 2). In contemplating materials for the roofing and siding, corrugated metal appeals to me because it's affordable, green, and provides two specific advantages that Florida needs: strength against hurricane debris impacts, and the potential for a reflective surface coat to mitigate heat gain.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Wright | Mar 19 13
8 Answers

Double stud wall assembly

I am building my dream house outside of Seattle in climate zone 4C with 4,615 heating degree days. It will be a net zero energy home built to Passive House standards. A 10 kW solar array will generate all of the energy the house uses with enough left over to power an electric car for 3,000 mile/yr. With solar panels now selling for $1/watt I can buy the panels, inverter, wire and mounts for under $20,000. Even in Seattle's rainy climate, this system will pay for itself in six years if I install it myself and in 11 years if I hire professionals. But I digress....

In PassivHaus | Asked By Gerald Blycker | Mar 15 13
10 Answers

SCIPs Please?

I’ve been reading about SCIPs (Structural Concrete Insulated Panels) as another approach to my hopeful project for a single story ranch in Zone 3. I’m not finding objective (i.e., third party) information on SCIP performance and, even more, on detailing them as walls or other panels in a building enclosure.

I could go to the individual mfgrs, but would love to find I’d missed something here, or at BSC …

In Green products and materials | Asked By Joe Wilson | Oct 26 10
4 Answers

Siding update with insulation install - but no sheathing

Hello Everyone.

New here, but have been trying to suck up the knowledge as best as possible. Im sure this is the first of several questions, so forgive me if Im not providing enough/the right info to get things started.

I own an old farmhouse, right on the 5A/6A climate border. Its a foursquare type, with a few additions tacked on the back of it. My questions focus on the main part of the house, since its mostly original everywhere. Build date is circa 1880, built with a mix of new/reclaimed timbers (based on beams in the basement).

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Scott Clark | Mar 18 13
0 Answers

Selecting an HVAC and hot water systems

We are building a new house. I need to select the guts for the heating/cooling. Solar and geothermal are not feasible. How does one whittle down the options/brands/models for a high efficiency (.95+) gas furnace? My builder is recommending a Trane furnace and cooling units. For hot water, he is suggesting tankless Navien units (NR-240A). I'm just not sure how to consider other brands and/or options. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

In Mechanicals | Asked By scott sch | Mar 19 13
11 Answers

Load sharing in double stud walls

The advice given here repeatedly is that only one of the walls in a double stud assembly should be load bearing. OK so I'll put all the necessary structural " stuff" in one and the other will be built as light as possible. Must anything be done to PREVENT load sharing?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jerry Liebler | Mar 18 13
4 Answers

Our Larsen truss project near Mount Robson, BC

Jin wanted a picture of the big mountain neighbouring our small project. At nearly 4000m, it is not the highest peak in Canada but its intimidating south face rises nearly 3000m off the valley floor.

For any climbers out there, the dark triangle below and left of the main summit, the 'wishbone arrete,' is the classic route. I had to use a picture from the fall because the peak rarely reveals itself in the winter months. It is so much higher than its neighbours, it seems to have its own weather system...

In General questions | Asked By erik olofsson | Mar 19 13
14 Answers

How do I flash a no-flange window?

I am wondering if anyone can advise or point me to good details for flashing a non-flanged European window (specifically Unilux).

In Green building techniques | Asked By Robert Swinburne | Sep 14 12
1 Answer

Design of a ground loop system for an ERV

I am building a new house near Albany, NY which is region 5A. I plan to have a super-insulated house with an Ultimate Air ERV. I would like to hook up a ground loop system to the ERV which would consist of tubing that is looped around the foundation footing a couple of times which would contain water or an anti-freeze mixture. The liquid would be pumped through a water to air heat exchanger on the intake side of the ERV in order to raise the input air temperature during the heating season. Where can I find design details for a system like this? What kind of tubing should be used?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Robert Walker | Mar 18 13
6 Answers

Energy retrofit: HVAC strategy?

I'm planning an energy retrofit/remodel of my 2000SF single-story home in Dallas TX, involving substantial insulation upgrades and thorough air-sealing.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Andrew Thompson Zone 3a | Mar 15 13
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