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2 Answers

Existing attached garage: Slab on grade, uninsulated slab, uninsulated walls. Live in northern California, in Marin County - close to the coast. No moisture problems on slab - seems pretty dry.

I was going to put in a sub floor as close as possible to existing slab - frame directly on top of slab.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Daniel | Dec 29 09
5 Answers

I'm looking for energy efficient options for heating a yurt and an adjoining separate small structure (an approximately 100 square foot bathroom--a composting toilet and tub). LP and electricity will be available. I have a propane "wood stove" available for the yurt but I doubt that it will be efficient....but then, not much will be efficient in a minimally insulated yurt. The adjoining bathroom building needs a small heat source.

We live in the Foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains...a moderate climate with 5600 heating days. We need heat for about four months every year.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ed Welch | Dec 23 09
4 Answers

I have been in my house for 21/2 years, the house was built in 2005, I am the original owner. We have had very wet fall/winter 15" above the normal. We noticed the basement is leaking where the floor meets the poured concrete wall, only when it rains very hard(lately-just started leaking in the last 2 months.) What do I need to know to talk intelligently to a basement expert coming to my house to asses the problem. He suspects it is footing drain, which I did not know I even had in my home. This was not explained to me by the builder or real estate agent.

In General questions | Asked By Debby Jennings | Dec 28 09
1 Answer

The house was built in 1925 in SW Florida (Fort Myers) with traditional floor joists, sub-flooring, and hardwood floors. There has always been a moisture issue under the house, mold and rotting joists. There is about 2 1/2 feet of crawl space; previous owners had put sand down and a humidistat controlled fan drawing air out of one of the vents in the foundation (approx 12" x 20") What else can be done to prevent future damage?

In General questions | Asked By Dominick | Dec 30 09
2 Answers

Good day all we are in the process of building a walkout bungalow just outside of Calgary Alberta , we have had quotes for Spider blown insulation and spray foam. Our question is is it cost effective to do spray foam all over or Spider Foam all over or spray foam on the main floor and Spider foam around the basement walls. We are also going to upgrade the roof insulation to R-50 and triple glaze the main floor windows. Any thoughts would be appreciated as spray foam everywhere is our dream but we have to justify the extra cost to ourselves ,thanks. Dave & Marie

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Bailey | Dec 27 09
1 Answer

We are building a new home

In General questions | Asked By Jason Alleyne | Dec 29 09
8 Answers

Dr. Wolfgang Feist has decided to post a comment on one of my blogs. Since it's easy to miss such postings, I'm alerting interested readers to his post and my response. They can be found here:
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/forgotten-pioneer...

In PassivHaus | Asked By Martin Holladay | Dec 24 09
5 Answers

We use 6" SIP's for all exterior walls that have 7/16" OSB factory glued to both sides. We have been been wrapping the interior walls & ceiling (blown in cellulose added later) with 6 mil clear poly before installing drywall. The elec. boxes, doors & window are all spray foamed. Is the poly needed around the walls?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bill Bright | Dec 24 09
1 Answer

what’s the origin of the moisture in the concrete floor and mold behind the trim photo? Was it when the floor was cleaned? Or a plumbing break? Or when the concrete was drying during install?

In Webinar Follow-up Q&A | Asked By Anonymous | Dec 21 09
0 Answers
In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Brooks | Dec 24 09
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