Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

We have a baseboard hot water boiler that is also used to heat our DHW(built in 1988). Seems we have larger than average gas bills even in summer. I have noticed that the boiler comes on even after 1 shower.
I am not sure if the temp set points are too low, boiler needs inspection, or to eliminate the side arm from boiler to DHW( Then add an on demand water heater). Bill over $100 mth seem very high for 2 people.

One reason for venting a roof (in addition to keeping the sheathing cold) is to release moisture from the attic. Given that (and assuming it is a given) I'm a bit unclear on the benefit of air-sealing ventilation baffles, particularly in a cathedral ceiling application where the baffles are continuous from soffit to ridge.

My basement slab has been poured, and I'm ready to cut back the Stego Wrap and 1/2" foam at the perimeter of the slab.

Is there a durable, low VOC sealant that would be ideal for filling the gap between the Stego Wrap and basement wall?

After this edge is sealed, is there a good way to dress this area up? Is there a specific kind of moulding that would nicely cover this slab/wall connection without taking up too much space? The only finish on the concrete walls will be primer and paint, no drywall, and for the floor probably only a sealer.

The thin-coat plaster blistered up through the paint just below the window apron in our 1938 house. I removed the loose plaster and patched and repainted an area of about 2 square inches. The bulging plaster seemed quite dry despite recent rains. I'm guessing the damage was due to rain, perhaps wind-driven rain. Climate zone is 6A if that matters.

There's no caulk between the aluminum wrapped window and the stone sill below it. Should I caulk it, or might that block drainage? The stone sill slopes, which isn't obvious from the picture.