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4 Answers

Assuming labor is free, I've found that the cheapest furring strips would be 15/32" plywood. It's quite a bit cheaper than 1x4's (less than half the price, close to a third, if ripped to 2.5"), and can be narrower than 3.5" without worrying about splitting like 1x3's or 1x2's would. Also, it just barely meets the 7/16" penetration requirement that James Hardie has.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Nick Welch | Apr 4 14
24 Answers

I have a flat unvented roof on my 100-yr old rowhouse in Philadelphia, climate zone 4. There is about 18" between the top of the ceiling and the bottom of the roofdeck. I'm looking at my options for air sealing and insulating this roof--there is currently no insulation at all.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Andrew Levitt | May 4 11
3 Answers

We had a new roof installed and it leaked around the chimney, into our attic then seeped down into our hallway. Plaster covers the interior chimney. We have no fireplace, just a gas furnace and water heater. We plan on replacing all of the walls (which are plaster, also), with drywall. We're just not certain about the chimney. The chimney is new also and has no liner. The company the built the new chimney said we didn't need a liner since there is no fireplace. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

In Interior design | Asked By Becky Gaston | Apr 6 14
26 Answers

This site excels in the "how" of green Building techniques, but it appears to me that when things move towards explaining the "why" discussions seem to move onto much shakier ground. Especially if the economic arguments don't seem to add up, rationalizations veer towards more general "It's the right thing to do" or "I want to be part of the solution" type responses.

In General questions | Asked By Malcolm Taylor | Mar 29 14
1 Answer

I am putting up a 1.5 story 24 x 24 garage. I want to use blown cellulose on the upper floor. I'd like to do it myself but I can't find a tutorial that shows start to finish steps including setting up proper ventilation.

Does anyone know if a web resource exists that can show me the step by step process ?

Thanks !

In Green building techniques | Asked By CHris Vidal | Apr 7 14
3 Answers

I"m insulating my basemen with 1" of XPS glued to poured concrete walls and 2x4 wood framed walls within with R-15 Roxul in the stud bays. I've been facing the walls with mold resistant drywall and latex paint. The basement seems relatively dry with no liquid water leaks. However, based on humidity levels I'm assuming some water is making its way in through the concrete walls and floors.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Alden | Apr 4 14
1 Answer

We are planning a major renovation of our 1970s ranch and would like in-floor radiant heat. The house is on an uninsulated slab in climate zone 5A. Our current plan is to insulate with 1.5" XPS over the slab, lay Schluter Bekotec over the insulation, place the the PEX in the Bekotec, screed then tile thoughout the house.

In Plans Review | Asked By Jessica Marchesi | Apr 6 14
1 Answer

I am finishing my attic for living space. The walls are 5ft up then 3ft diagonal then 8ft flat. (see photo). The kneewall and ceiling are getting r30. What is the best way to get a high r-vaule in the 3ft diagonal that contacts the roof with such a small depth? Ventilation is not going through it.
Thanks!

In General questions | Asked By Matt Edwards | Apr 6 14
1 Answer

Having recently moved into a large, 1980s-built home in central Maine (read: cold) I'm in the process of improving air sealing and insulation. The home has a large attached garage with a non-insulated second floor, and an adjoining second floor room that was framed and insulated but never finished or heated. It's not clear how or where the builder intended to access this space it from the finished second floor but I don't need the space anyway.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Nick Lambert | Apr 6 14
16 Answers

Hello. I am thinking about using vertical pine board and batten on the exterior of my new house. This will require horizontal strapping which I initially thought should be placed over the house wrap. I then began to think about where the water will go when (not if) it finds it's way behind the boards. Does the horizontal strapping impede on the water's ability to drain down? Will it soak the strapping and eventually cause issues? Maybe I should place the house wrap over the strapping so that the water has a place to go, not interfering with the strapping? Any thoughts?

In General questions | Asked By Matthew Michaud | Apr 3 14
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