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5 Answers

Hi everyone. I just purchased a property in western Massachusetts zone five a. I am planning to renovate the existing 24 x 60 barn for use as a year-round workshop. The building is slab on grade with 2 x 6 framed walls 24 inches on center, sided with rough pine board and batten nailed to the studs and bracing. Currently, there is a bit of air exchange between the interior and exterior due to some of the battens pulling away from the nailers.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Benjamin Jones | Jul 18 14
3 Answers

Hi, I am building my first house, what a project that has turned out to be but that's for another day. Anyways, our great room has scissor trusses for a nice pitched ceiling. I would like to have at least 24" of insulation to keep things nice and toasty in the winter. There is a 4' overhang outside on either end. I nailed a 24" high plywood leaving a vent space above where the red is on the layout. My question is what material and how to go about it. To use the high density cellulose is has to be contained by some mesh? Any input appreciated.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Tom Smith | Jul 19 14
6 Answers

I am considering the purchase of Intus eForte windows for a new house. The windows would have be transported over several mountain passes up to 11,000 ft and then be installed at 7000 ft. This would require pressure relief valves that would vent the argon gas. Does this degrade the performance of the PH certifide window and would it become uncertifided?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chuck Jensen | Jul 17 14
6 Answers

I'm looking at building a small free standing deck, perhaps 200 square feet or so. It'll be pretty low to the ground, less than 30 inches for sure. It seems to be widespread practice now to put rubber flashing on top of the beams, joists, and on joist ends, to protect the tops and hanger joint from water.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Nick Welch | Jul 17 14
4 Answers

I plan on a double stud wall with both walls framed 24" OC and aligned, and OSB sheathing on the outer face of the inner wall as the primary air barrier.

For essentially identical material cost I can use either mineral wool bats or EPS in the mid-wall cavity. The construction sequence would be slightly different as the EPS would be installed on the inside of the outer wall before the inner wall was erected while the mineral wool would be installed after the inner wall was up, through the openings in the outer wall.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jerry Liebler | Jul 17 14
4 Answers

I'm installing an HRV in my new house to improve air quality and mitigate outgassing of pressed wood cabinets, carpet, etc. (Climate zone 5a, so mixed humid conditions; hot summers, chilly winters but not too cold)

Initially, I was going to install a simple exhaust-only system with Panasonic bath fans, but then I came across a study that suggested that exhaust-only systems aren't as helpful for indoor air quality as an ERV (or an HRV):

Ventilation System Effectiveness and Tested Indoor Air Quality Impacts
Building America Report - 1309, March 2013
Armin Rudd and Daniel Bergey

In General questions | Asked By Patrick Cantwell | Jul 17 14
3 Answers

I am about to start building a 3000 sqft, 1 1/2 story home in zone 3A W/H (central Alabama).
The house will have a standing seam metal roof and a drilled pier foundation with open crawl space. Air handlers and ductwork will be above the first floor ceiling, on the back side of the second floor knee wall.

My current construction/insulation plans are:
- Roof: Metal roof / Ice & water shield membrane/ 7/16 OSB/ Closed cell SPF sprayed 5" thick between 2 x 6 rafters

In General questions | Asked By Thierry Swinson | Jul 18 14
2 Answers

Hello GBA,

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Gray | Jul 18 14
41 Answers

Hi all,
Can editors step out from behind the curtain to ask opinions, too? I'm planning to redo my garage shop this Fall and although my primary heat for the space is a woodstove, I'd love to have some supplemental heating, and cooling in the summer would be great, too. I'm no schlep when it comes to remodeling work, but have never installed or seen a mini split install. Would I be a fool to try the install myself or have the kits gotten streamlined to the point that its basically plug and play, complete with factory-charged units and quick connect line sets, etc?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Justin Fink | Aug 22 13
8 Answers

Hello, I'm in the USA and currently constructing a two story addition. I have 14 windows and 2 doors already installed and I'm looking for the best way to air seal them on the interior. What interior air sealing tapes are available that would be used to air seal the rough opening gap on the windows? I've done a lot of searching and can't seem to find many options. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By SCOTT KOONS | Jul 16 14
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