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1 Answer

#2 about noise from outside

my question below was answered about putting in new window. i already knew that. and i've already tal ked to landlord, they will do nothing. . aside from these two things, could you let me know if closed-cell 2" foam , or 2" acoustical tiles will help at all? just wondering what i can try in addiction to the things i have tried that are mentioned in my note below. thank you, cindy

In General questions | Asked By Cynthia Oeser | Oct 10 14
17 Answers

Correct way to use closed-cell insulation on a roof?

I'm rehabbing an old 3-story brick building in Pittsburgh. The roof is a flat roof but pitched from front to back. I got estimates to spray closed-cell on the underside of the roof and essentially encapsulate the structure. There is a 'space' between the 3rd-story ceiling and the roof, so if I drywall the 3rd-story ceiling, there would then be an air space above the drywall. I'm also planning on installing a new rubber roof. So I guess I have several questions:

1. Is applying closed-cell to create a barrier at the underside of the roof the correct way to go?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Murphy | Oct 8 14
2 Answers

Skirting for Cabin

My cabin was built on piers and has no skirting to protect the pipes beneath the house. I'm trying to find something that's energy efficient and attractive. In searches on the internet, all the skirting I find seems to be for mobile homes. Can you suggest skirting materials that will work best for keeping out the cold in the mountains of North Carolina? Currently it just has tar paper and lattice ... (The cabin is on a knoll and gets some very cold wind).

Thank you!

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Leslie Elliott | Oct 10 14
4 Answers

What's goin' on! Rigid foam insulation / WRB shrinks?

I did not join GBA until after the issues of "shrinking foam" were discussed. I used it for a WRB/exterior insulation combo without having understood that there might be an issue. I used Tuck (sheathing tape), Weathermate flexible flashing and Windlock cap head screws to install it. Topped up with Vytec (division of CertainTeed) split shake style siding.

Earlier this week I read the FourSevenFive.com's recent series of "Foam Fails" articles. This is undoubtedly very controversial and has serious legal liabilities associated with it.

In General questions | Asked By flitch plate | Oct 10 14
4 Answers

Small house up North

I'm currently planning a home for when I retire. It's in a maritime region, 57 degrees N with 3200 HDD. I'm considering a small house (~1000sf) on a single story. The selected site has clear view to the south and the long axis of the house can be aligned E-W so solar is an obvious consideration. The house will be heavily insulated and built tightly. I would like to know whether or not a combination of direct solar, thermal mass and solar P-V would be a good starting point for the design. I have access to my own wood for winter warmth.

thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Peter Hastings | Oct 10 14
5 Answers

Bleaching mold on sheathing?

I'm building our house in Wisconsin, where we had a very wet June with 10 inches of rain while framing. The interior side of our 1/2" plywood sheathing has dried but has developed spots of mold. I'm considering misting it with a bleach mixture and letting dry well before insulating, rocking etc. The finished wall system will dry to the exterior, with 3" of Roxul Comfortboard IS on the exterior and Roxul comfort batts in stud cavities.

Any opinions on whether this is necessary? If yes, how strong should my bleach solution be?

In General questions | Asked By Edward Krause | Oct 4 14
1 Answer

Wall insulation plan

I am building an energy efficient house, one story slab on grade and just picked up 300 sheets of recycled 3" polyiso insulation. I am considering changing my exterior walls from double stud dense pack cellulose to the drawing below. Any reason I should not?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jenz Yoder | Oct 10 14
4 Answers

Standing-seam roof condition

Is the rust and peeling of these roof panels an indication of serious damage? Is there a way to recoat these panels? I have no idea when this roof was installed, but would like to know if I should start consider replacing it, or if it will last another 10+ years. Thanks in advance - Dan

In General questions | Asked By Dan McGonigle | Oct 9 14
1 Answer

An all-window roof

How would you put a roof over one side of our house that is all windows. there are 16-5x8 double windows at a 45 degree angle.Not all, but some of them leak with every rain. We think we have tried everything to fix them with no luck. The only thing left to do is put a new roof on, but i think it would have to be free standing? It is just going to be myself and my wife doing this job. Dont know what to do! Any suggestions would be appreciated.!!

In General questions | Asked By larry boso | Oct 10 14
1 Answer

Does my ICF foundation require additional protection or barriers applied before backfill?

In my case the house is located in southwest Colorado at 6900' elev. on a sunny south slope. The soil is moderately expansive clay so the foundation is 48" on top of the footer on top of 12" compacted structural fill. Footer perimeter drain ( smooth pipe in gravel bedding) all around, ground will slope 1:10 away from foundation to a french drain system, and ground gutters or sub-grade pond liner will be installed on the north side to keep bulk water away from the foundation, so good drainage and water control.

In General questions | Asked By Chuck Jensen | Oct 10 14
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