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10 Answers

Please pick my plan apart- better now than after it's built.

If anyone wants to provide input it would be greatly appreciated.

This is to be our retirement home. Energy efficient, double stud walls, the walkout is to the south. Masonry wood stove in living room.

Please note the three level breezeway. I struggled with window sizing and ended up with a lot of different sizes based on room use not exterior balance. Not good?

The South First floor overhang is too small. My designer/draftsman changed it to give upstairs windows some room. That will change and go to 9' ceilings in upstairs if needed.


In Plans Review | Asked By jim sweazey | Jan 13 17
6 Answers

Triple pane vs. double pane in Phoenix

Im at the point where I have to narrow down my material choices for my new home build. Im in PHX, living in a home built like this : http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/why-are-hous... . And its driving me nuts having to pay my electric bill every summer ($500 a month and thats with solar!!). Currently I have spec'd Intus triple pane windows (Vinyl Arcade line, not the higher end Eforte) for their U Factor (high 0.10's). I'm the opposite of most as I am trying to block the introduction of heat through thermal transfer not the loss of it.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jeffrey Savage | Jan 12 17
12 Answers

Mini crawl space

I have decided to convert a piece of my timber frame barn into living space on my new home.( the barn is there) what I would like to do is elevate a 2x 8 floor above the existing slab. This would hanger onto the existing perimeter grade beam that sits on top of the concrete stem walls. I would set the floor 1.5" higher than the grade beam to create a thermal break with a narrow ripping of eps. So I would end up with about 10 inches beneath the floor assembly.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By scott mangold | Jan 7 17
8 Answers

Windwashing through loose-fill cellulose

We have some high winds, 40km/h, gusts up to 105km/h. I pulled some of the plugs in the wall (I have not plastered them yet) and noticed the wind gets through the cellulose with no problems, the wind blew in a few puffs of cellulose during strong gusts.

Essentially my house has an air barrier at the interior plaster, wall stack up is:
plaster/lath/plaster/barn board/cellulose-true 2x4/wood siding/vinyl siding.

I could not read the wind washing article since i'm not a premium member but i'm guessing it found wind washing is real if my experience is any indication.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Alan B | Jan 11 17
2 Answers

Polyiso for fiberglass insulation retrofit

I'm new to this community, but have really appreciated the depth of information available as I've been reading though old posts the last couple of weeks.

My wife and I recently moved into a 1974 home in central Virginia (climate zone 4) which has a wall structure of: tongue and groove boards, 2x4 framing with foil faced fiberglass batts in the stud bays, OSB sheathing, felt paper and cedar shake siding.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Daniel Potter | Jan 13 17
3 Answers

How is your heat pump working?

Just wondering how folks with heat pumps are making out. The last half of December - first half of January have been real winter here in MN. I am in CZ 7, Northern MN, we just had the coldest night of the year at -33F. I have a Hyper Heat MUZFH15NA outside unit and a MSZFH15NA indoor unit heating a one story 1344 square foot home. (18K btu/hr heating capacity) Thermostat set at 72F. At 2AM I got up to check on things and the heat pump was shut down. My baseboard electric comes on at 67F and was just coming on. At 7AM it was -33F and the house was 66F.

In General questions | Asked By Steve Vigoren | Jan 13 17
14 Answers

Air sealing the building envelope while avoiding moisture issues

First off, thank you GBA community for all the support so far in getting my project planning done for my net zero build. I've been doing a good amount of research on the best way to provide a good air barrier for my future home. I have significant concerns on a cost effective way to get the proper air sealing in order to hit the goal of sub 1.5 ACH. Below is a quick overview of what the build envelope looks like so far:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Joshua Greisen | Jan 5 17
3 Answers

Why are we measuring a pressure (in Pa) for the fan, when we are really interested in knowing the flow rate of air through fan?

The question relates to blower door testing and the Tectite system.

In General questions | Asked By Iqra Khan | Jan 11 17
5 Answers

Bathroom drywall

I have been searching, but not coming up with a clear answer.

We are planning on using Dens Armor in our bathrooms walls, with the exception of Cement around the shower enclosure and also Cement as a tile backer.

With regards to the shower ceiling, is Dens Armor suitable?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Bridget Lamberson | Jan 12 17
2 Answers

Continuous back-up?

I am trying to understand the fire code here: http://www.cufca.ca/fire.php.

I want to put up some hardboard to cover ridig foam in my basement walls. What does the code mean by "3 mm thickness over continuous back-up?"

9.29.7. Hardboard Finish Material Standard

1) Hardboard shall conform to CAN/CGSB11.3-M, Hardboard. Thickness

1) Hardboard shall be not less than

a) 3 mm thick when applied over continuous back-up,
b) 6 mm thick when applied over supports spaced not more than 400 mm o.c., and

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Marc Delisle | Jan 12 17
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