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3 Answers

Wall assembly

I am building a new home in zone 6. I have a question regarding insulation in the window wells. I have 4 inches of xps externally. Of course I do not have insulation inside the window well area. That leaves the header area and a small amount around the window uninsulated. Should I use an internal insulation in the stud bays around this area? One window well is in a bathroom. Should a smart membrane be installed in this area?

In General questions | Asked By Charles Cloud | Feb 4 16
4 Answers

Insulating a 1890 balloon-frame Chicago house

I have a couple questions about my 1890 balloon-frame house.

It is a wood balloon frame house with 1" thick sheathing boards 8-10-12 inches wide. The original siding is a wood clap siding with a paper under it - later the house was covered in a type of tar paper and wire mesh to add a 1 1/2" cement stucco in a brick pattern (one piece shell) -- to give you an idea of outside make up.

I took off some plaster walls in my office to replace with drywall since they were starting to fall off and while those 2 walls are open I figured I would put some insulation in there before the drywall.

In General questions | Asked By David Post | Feb 4 16
4 Answers

Air drying Ponderosa pine

I live in SW Colorado near a sawmill that has a lot of reject 6x6 and bigger ponderosa pine posts and beams that are too warped or twisted too much to be used. Normally these are cut up for firewood but I want to slice them into 3/4" thick end grain tiles, air dry and dimension them and use them for residential flooring. I'll use a moisture meter of course but would like to have a rough idea of time needed for air drying before I start.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jack Tally | Feb 7 16
2 Answers

Philadelphia exterior roof insulation with uninsulated brick walls?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Andrew Austin | Feb 5 16
3 Answers

Advice on yet another vented cathedral ceiling using the "peanut brittle" method

I am building my home and have a 24' x 32' section with 13' walls then a cathedral ceiling at a 7:12 pitch with 2x10's 16" o.c. The roof is steel with an unvented ridge cap, DuPont synthetic roof underlayment and 19/32" OSB on top of the 2x10 rafters.

I will be dropping the ceiling 20" from the bottom of the ridge beam to create a mini attic for several reasons: ease electrical and ceiling fan installs, provide venting into "mini-attic" from each rafter bay into the space and out a gable vent on each end, and ultimately lower my heated space slightly closer to the living area.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Adam Rahmlow | Feb 5 16
5 Answers

What is best & permanent adhesive and sealant for metal roof screws/seams?

I have a u-channel metal roof. The washer screws that go through the roof into the plywood and rafters are backing out dozens a year and many are stripped. I want to tighten or replace them as needed and use something to keep them in as well as seal the threads and gaps watertight.

Any suggestions on procedures and materials?

Also, what is the proper location to put the screws? Through the raised part or the valleys? I see both on my roof.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Andy Nels | Feb 3 16
3 Answers

They didn't completely hook the cold air return on my furnace. Is that OK? What could happen?

can just using indoor instead of fresh outside air cause any problems?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Roger Blankenship II | Feb 1 16
1 Answer

Moisture accumulating before vapor barrier installed.

I'm in zone 7A and built an attached garage this fall: in slab heat, 2X6 walls, Rex wrap and OSB sheeting. The in floor heat got hooked up and turned on the beginning of January at the same time I began insulating the walls with unfaced fiberglass batts and faced batts in the ceiling.

Before I got poly vapor barrier up on the inside, there was a large amount of moisture (it was frost when it was cold outside) accumulating on the inside of the sheeting behind the batts.

In General questions | Asked By Neil Knutson | Feb 3 16
2 Answers

What is the ideal choice of cladding over OSB-Sheathed SIPs?

Hey Martin,

I find myself in a situation similar to one discussed here in the past regarding putting masonry, i.e. thin veneer, over SIPs. The original question was regarding which WRB to use. However for me, unlike the pervious poster, I have time to make course corrections. You previously said this was a "particular risky combination." I would like to know your recommendation of cladding over SIPs if stone veneer is not a good choice.

I live in Maryland, so we get plenty of rain. Just FYI.

Thanks,
William Lohr

In Green building techniques | Asked By William Lohr | Feb 1 16
1 Answer

Thermoarcilla? Termoarcilla? Thermal Clay?

I've been working with a Spanish carpenter who told me that a lot of walls in Spain are being built with Thermal Clay, which I guess is the translation of Termoarcilla. I have had greast difficulty fining much information online in English (sorry my Spanish is not so good).

Here is some information: http://bloquetermoarcilla.es/en/productos-termoarcilla.php

In Green products and materials | Asked By E T | Feb 3 16
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