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2 Answers

The main question is whether the air space provided by the metal ribs would provide adequate air flow. If not, how about vertical 2X 'purlins', forming site-built insulation baffles that would be insect screened at both ends?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Michael Roland | Aug 7 14
4 Answers

Following up on last month's blog about building codes, am I correct that the code allows interior vapor retarding with latex paint on sheet rock? Also, does the vapor permeability of ZIP sheathing prevent inner wall condensation without the use of exterior foam?

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Michael Roland | Aug 7 14
5 Answers

I am using vented soffitt with baffles and blown-in fiberglass or cellulose. Ridge will be vented with 'Core-vent' type vent.

Forgot to say, using metal roofing.

In General questions | Asked By David Parker | Aug 7 14
10 Answers

We are meeting a lot of resistance from local concrete contractors & structural engineers when we tell them that we want a capillary break between the footing and the foundation wall. Are there any documented cases of this capillary action being a source of moisture/ mold / finish material problems? Are there any scientific studies that compare the moisture levels in foundations walls with and without a capillary break? The capillary break makes sense to me intuitively, but nobody wants to pay for it or change their ways unless we can show them proof that it is necessary.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Eric Stear | Jul 31 14
1 Answer

I, one person, live in a 1,350 sq. ft. tightly constructed home in Pinewood Springs, Colorado, at elevation 6,700 ft.

Heat is provided by a wood stove and electric baseboard heat.

Do I really need an HRV or ERV, or are there simple ways to achieve appropriate ventilation?

I have no ductwork except for 2 bathroom fans and range exhaust

Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By stuart cohen | Aug 7 14
1 Answer

Air Krete seems like an incredible product. Everything about it sounds great. R-value of 6. Inert. No VOCs. Fire Resistant.

How many builders, retrofit contractors are using this?

It does not appear to be widely popular but it seems like a dream come true.

What am I missing here?

What's the catch?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Reuven Walder | Aug 7 14
9 Answers

I'm buying recycled 4" XPS to go under the slab for my new house in zone 6 Maine.
It wasn't as easy to find as I had expected, so when I found some, I ordered it. It gets delivered next week, but I probably won't need it for a few weeks or a month. Will it be OK to stack it on some framing lumber on the ground at the building site until I need it? I could throw a tarp over it if needed. I could put it in the barn, but then I'd need to move it again.

I assume a little moisture won't hurt, but I want to be sure.

In Green products and materials | Asked By stephen sheehy | Aug 5 14
18 Answers

Hi,

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By R Bouchard | Aug 2 14
5 Answers

I live in Cambridge Massachusetts. I need a point-of-use tankless water heater for 1 bathroom sink. I will use the hot water for about 5 minutes at a time. What is the correct size? Can you recommend a brand?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Eve Schlapik | Jun 9 14
2 Answers

We built a home twenty years ago and used wooden, cedar clapboards on the exterior. The builder didn't strap over the Tyvek and we developed severe wall rot after a number of years. We literally replaced studs and sheathing and then used tar paper and strapped the walls etc., but we still cannot keep paint on any of our three buildings. The top of the barn wall which is outside of the in insulated loft is fine.

In General questions | Asked By Rob NORTHRUP | Aug 7 14
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