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1 Answer

I, one person, live in a 1,350 sq. ft. tightly constructed home in Pinewood Springs, Colorado, at elevation 6,700 ft.

Heat is provided by a wood stove and electric baseboard heat.

Do I really need an HRV or ERV, or are there simple ways to achieve appropriate ventilation?

I have no ductwork except for 2 bathroom fans and range exhaust

Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By stuart cohen | Aug 7 14
1 Answer

Air Krete seems like an incredible product. Everything about it sounds great. R-value of 6. Inert. No VOCs. Fire Resistant.

How many builders, retrofit contractors are using this?

It does not appear to be widely popular but it seems like a dream come true.

What am I missing here?

What's the catch?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Reuven Walder | Aug 7 14
9 Answers

I'm buying recycled 4" XPS to go under the slab for my new house in zone 6 Maine.
It wasn't as easy to find as I had expected, so when I found some, I ordered it. It gets delivered next week, but I probably won't need it for a few weeks or a month. Will it be OK to stack it on some framing lumber on the ground at the building site until I need it? I could throw a tarp over it if needed. I could put it in the barn, but then I'd need to move it again.

I assume a little moisture won't hurt, but I want to be sure.

In Green products and materials | Asked By stephen sheehy | Aug 5 14
18 Answers

Hi,

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By R Bouchard | Aug 2 14
5 Answers

I live in Cambridge Massachusetts. I need a point-of-use tankless water heater for 1 bathroom sink. I will use the hot water for about 5 minutes at a time. What is the correct size? Can you recommend a brand?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Eve Schlapik | Jun 9 14
2 Answers

We built a home twenty years ago and used wooden, cedar clapboards on the exterior. The builder didn't strap over the Tyvek and we developed severe wall rot after a number of years. We literally replaced studs and sheathing and then used tar paper and strapped the walls etc., but we still cannot keep paint on any of our three buildings. The top of the barn wall which is outside of the in insulated loft is fine.

In General questions | Asked By Rob NORTHRUP | Aug 7 14
22 Answers

Hi,

We are building a duplex in Yellowknife, Canada - climate zone 8 (design temp minus 45 - same as Fairbanks).

Our winters are long and dark so some sort of (external) insulated window shutter is a huge energy saving opportunity. Our walls are going to R50, while triple pane windows get about R4.

I'm thinking of using 2-3 inches of Roxul board sandwiched between wood. That could give up to R12.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Andrew Robinson | Jun 10 14
4 Answers

old house with walk up, unfinished attic. some old insulation under floor boards. don't want to lose floor space which is used for storage. taking up floor to air seal around lights, etc. so I am already in the space. can I put rigid foam in between joists before putting floor planks back down. Not much room there for adding cellulose or fiberglass. foam panels have more r-value. attic has vent at ridge and small windows in gable.

In General questions | Asked By Tom O'Brien | Aug 6 14
1 Answer

I live in a townhouse community and the maintenance company is starting the annual power washing. I noticed that the crew doing the power washing are power washing the vented soffits which in my opinion is forcing water up into the soffit and knowing the construction of the houses, water is getting into the insulation. First, it is a good idea to power wash vinyl siding, and if so or if not, can you direct me to sources showing the problems with power washing a vinyl house

Thanks,
Mark Yuschak

In General questions | Asked By Mark Yuschak | Aug 6 14
2 Answers

We are building a tiny house currently with cathedral ceilings and 2x6 rafters. I have access to large quantities of rigid foam and would like to make use of it. Can I fill the rafter spaces with layers of rigid foam and spray can foam the seams and cracks of each layer as an air barrier and keep the roof unvented? I would then like to add another layer of rigid under the rafters with taped seams to prevent thermal bridging and air leakage once again. Then I would strap under that so I could still install T&G on the ceiling.

In Green building techniques | Asked By jordan Saunders | Aug 5 14
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