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4 Answers

VOCs in cabinetry conversion varnish

Hello - we are building a home (Zone 4C) and I asked the cabinet maker for a data sheet on the paint they will be using. It is a Rudd conversion varnish with a VOC level of ~500 g/L (<0.1% formaldehyde by weight). That seemed high to me, so I looked up the maximum allowable in the U.S. for conversion varnishes, and it's 725 g/L. I also searched for the VOC level of conversion varnishes sold by Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams, and their VOC levels were comparable to Rudd. Should I be concerned?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Mike Dominic | Apr 12 17
1 Answer

Has anyone heard of the Complete Block Company?

I'm on the initial planning stages of the house I'm planning on building. So basically a lot of hours spent on GBA forums and scrounging information wherever I can get it.

My question is: Has anybody ever used these blocks? And if so, what was your experience?

In General questions | Asked By youngb556 | Apr 12 17
2 Answers

Insulation and air sealing around exposed rafters and beams

Our new build project with have exposed 4x8" Douglas Fir Beams cantilevering over the front and rear elevations of the property with a low-slope "warm" shed style roof. I've previously posted on the roof assembly and comfortable with our approach there.

I know that cantilevered beams penetrating the assembly is far from ideal, but it is what is so I am trying to come up with the best solution with some input from your kind selves. I can't seem to find anything in the articles so I've purely come up with the below based on a best guess.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Quinn Sievewright | Apr 11 17
13 Answers

Working with tract builders

Regrettably it looks like I may have to pull the trigger on a new tract built home.

The dwelling will be your typical townhouse with a drive under garage and a rear two-story cantilevered section.

As I was saying, I really do not like tract builders because they can't control their subs but due to high land costs they're the only game in town unless one wants to spend over $750k for a custom home.

From my own experience with this design of home there are two what I consider typical failures.

In Project management | Asked By John Clark | Mar 2 17
12 Answers

What are your recommendations for re-insulating a home with 2x4 walls that has been completely gutted down to the studs?

I am in climate zone 6 in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. The house was in terrible condition inside, so I bought it really cheap and am basically rebuilding the interior from the studs out.

The interior drywall has all been removed, so the 2x4 cavities are exposed. Three of the four walls will have modifications to window openings, so I need to take off the siding anyway.

What are your opinions between:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeff Martin | Apr 11 17
6 Answers

Insulating first floor of a plaster house

We live in a 5A-6 zone on the Hudson Valley in NY - the house was built in the early 40's...the house is essential one story which has plaster walls. We are converting the upstairs to a bedroom and bathroom with drywall.

I have read mixed reviews about adding insulation to the existing plaster walls. We would like to use fiberglass in the attic - drywall area and we were going to remove the siding and a couple sheathing boards to fish thru fiberglass on the first floor plaster walls. Is this a bad idea? Is there a better way of insulting plaster/drywall combination walls?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jhorton1214 | Apr 12 17
4 Answers

Effect of spray foam on AC refrigerant lines & electrical wiring

Finally we are ready to make our attic a conditioned space. R38 on 2x6s and R21 gable walls. The new closed-cell Demilec HFO looks very promising. After all the research, I’m done to one major concern:

In Mechanicals | Asked By David Goldman | Apr 11 17
6 Answers

Mitsubishi or Daikin minisplit ductless?

I am building a new construction house and will be installing a ductless minisplit system for heating and cooling. I have chosen this route because I want ductless and for energy efficiency.

My question is: Should I go with Mitsubishi or the Daikin system? Daikin costs less and has a better warranty. But what about performance and energy efficiency? Can anyone answer this question? Thanks.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By user-6813968 | Apr 11 17
26 Answers

Mold/ventilation problems in an old passive solar house

I just tried to post a long comment on the vapor retarder/barrier article and was blocked for spam so I'm trying again here. I'm under contract for purchasing a 1979 passive solar house in Southern Maine (near Sebago Lake, but at higher elevation). The house needs a lot of work, which we were expecting, but on top of all that they unfortunately found moderate to high mold growth on the roof sheathing and rafters, along with improper insulation/ventilation practices.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Movintomaine | Apr 9 17
3 Answers

Insulating a cathedral ceiling

I am building a new construction house and have 9' ceilings except for cathedral ceiling in the living room/family room. What is the best way to insulate the area above the ceiling above the cathedral ceiling? Thanks.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By user-6813968 | Apr 11 17
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