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2 Answers

Whole-house water filters

Anybody have an opinion on the best whole-house water filtration systems?

In General questions | Asked By User-6872033 | Jun 6 18
5 Answers

Safe'n'Sound R-0 (?) vs Comfortbatt R-15 for Interior 2x4 Walls only

Safe'n'sound vs Comfortbatt
R-? (Not rated) vs R-15
3" thick vs 3.5" thick
estimated cost per sq ft: $0.80 vs $0.77

I read somewhere that Safe'n'Sound is denser and better at sound insulating.Which I like the sound of. :) But my mind says "What about that last 1/2" that Safe'n'Sound doesn't fill? I think it ought to be filled. And why can't someone (or has someone) tested the R-value of the Safe'n'Sound? I should just go with the Comfortbatt..it was easy enough to install...

Any opinions? (wink wink)....Thanks in advance.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Inger Peters | Jun 6 18
5 Answers

DIY blower door test - crazy?

I am having trouble finding someone willing to do a blower door test. All the firms I have contacted have said they will only do a complete Energy Audit as part of the government rebate program. I'm guessing they get a kickback from the government on top of what they charge the homeowner. So I've resorted to thinking up a way to test it myself.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Trevor Lambert | Jun 5 18
11 Answers

Flex duct material for ventilation system

It was recommended to me by a couple of independent sources to include a short run of flex duct between my HRV and the supply and return manifolds, for noise control purposes. The idea is to decouple the unit from the ducting as a means of reducing vibration transmission. I've looked at several options:
1. Vinyl dryer duct. Very flimsy, has a pretty nasty smell to it, probably not a good choice from an air quality standpoint.
2. Foil dryer duct. Also very flimsy.
3. Semi-rigid aluminum dryer duct. Seems too rigid to actually achieve the goal of decoupling.

In Mechanicals | Asked By User-6792900 | Apr 11 18
1 Answer

Attic insulation questions (3 layers of fiberglass batts? Insulating above R60?)

I am in the process of air-sealing, baffling, and reinsulating my attic. The existing fiberglass batt insulation is from 1985 or so and is about 6-8" thick. It is wrapped in a vapor barrier on all sides and has been run between the floor joists in the attic currently. I have been moving all of the existing batts and have been piling them in a corner while I air-seal with Great Stuff foam.

In General questions | Asked By DrJimesTooperMD | Jun 6 18
5 Answers

Attic insulation of eaveless partial cathedral ceiling

Hi,

In General questions | Asked By LongfieldL | Jun 4 18
2 Answers

How to provide makeup air when using a 900 cfm range hood?

Are there any solutions to makeup air other than opening windows or getting some expensive mechanical solution. Are there any window solutions that can filter air?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Baker71 | Jun 6 18
8 Answers

Hot Roof - Cathedral Ceiling

I am in the process of insulating my cathedral ceiling. I have searched through the site but haven't found exactly what I'm wondering.

Originally I planned on doing full depth closed cell spray foam (as shown here: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulat...)

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By user-7079709 | Jun 5 18
4 Answers

Solarium (a.k.a. sunroom) is leaking

So I am trying to help a friend of mine who has a solarium aka sunroom which is leaking in a variety of places. The company who made it has gone out of business and the contractor who installed it won't return his calls. It's leaking in areas but not horrendously and it's not readily apparent where the water is entering exactly. My buddy does not have the money to tear it down and have it redone and can't find a contractor willing to try and repair it properly.

In General questions | Asked By Matthew Seabolt | Jun 4 18
11 Answers

What's the best way to implement polyiso insulation in an old attic about to be converted to living space?

I'm seeing conflicting reports regarding whether moisture barrier should be used for a finished attic roof, or whether the attic should remain vented. I suspect the answer depends on what is done on the exterior side of the roof sheathing (and I don't plan on touching the outside of the roof myself).

My present plan is to install two 2" layers of polyiso rigid insulation with seams both staggered and sealed, and then probably another layer on the drop ceiling and poy walls.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By TimGNash | May 31 18
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