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2 Answers

I am gutting the interior of my house and removing all the ceiling plaster and 1950s rock wool insulation. Is there a product I can use as a sheathing on the ceiling prior to putting up the drywall. We want to get the insulation in and the mechanicals bac

I am doing most of this work on my own, we are building new cabinets, ect. I am going to hire out the drywall hanging and finishing, but want to do that part all at once as oppossed to doing drywall now , and finishing later
Thanks Ralph

In General questions | Asked By Ralph Vickers | Jan 14 15
4 Answers

Airsealing an attic

Hello, I have a 172 year old brick home and have some questions regarding attic venting. My attic is in poor shape. It was "finished" when the house was built, with plaster walls, a flat plaster ceiling and 1 partition wall. I've been in the house about a year and am just now deciding to do some work up there. There are sections of sagging plaster and a few holes in the ceiling. I decided to widen a hole in the ceiling to peek up into the very top of the roof. The timbers look like they're in great shape but the masonry at the gable ends and chimney stacks are crumbling.

In General questions | Asked By Dan McGonigle | Dec 21 14
6 Answers

retrofit basement slab edge insulation?

Greetings!

Long time lurker, first time poster. Thanks for all the great info. Searched the archives, but cant seem to find an answer.

zip 12572, NY Hudson Valley Zone 5A

House built in 1961. on top of a hill, very good drainage, dry soil, no standing water after heavy rain, & 3ft eaves overhang walls

26' x 50' Monolithic Basement slab, guesstimate 4-6" thick. poured between the block/basement walls. [R20 basement walls internal insulation planned]

slab is on gravel /stone crush fill, assume no vapor barrier or underslab insulation.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By p Ha | Jan 10 15
7 Answers

ductless mini-split retrofit question

I live in southeastern NC, near the coast. My house is just under 1900 sqft with a bonus room over an attached two car garage. My HVAC ducts are in the unconditioned, vented attic. I understand the problems with this. Would a ductless minisplit make sense as a retrofit option? If so, can you just remove the ductwork and patch the drywall where the supply registers are? How do you determine how many head units you need and the best places to install them? I was thinking about this as an option for when I eventually have to replace my heat pump and/or air handler.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jason Dennis | Jan 12 15
12 Answers

Creating more space for attic insulation

Ok, I'm sure this is a stupid question, but I really do appreciate all of the patient answers I have received in the past.

Because I will be building my home with blocks that are 1' tall, my top floor will be 8'8" from floor to the top of the tallest course of blocks, where the roof trusses normally rest. I really only need 8' ceilings on that floor. I got to wondering what to do with that extra 8", and came up with this idea to add some extra insulation since I would like to have a floor for at least part of the attic.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Stephen Youngquist | Jan 13 15
0 Answers

Triple Pane - Bristol Windows?

Anyone hear of Bristol Windows out of PA? They make a triple pane window but looking at the frame profile section compared to a European triple pane window, it's a night and day difference. The European frame is way beefier and reinforced with steel.

Just curious if anyone has seen these windows up close or used them?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Peter L | Jan 14 15
19 Answers

2 x 8 stud walls, or staggered?

Preface:
Southwest Nebraska - Zone 5B - I experience all four seasons. Hot summers that can be humid some years. Cold winters.

Designing my home to build. Trying to determine which is the most cost effective method to do the walls. I am young, and intend on living in this house for a very long time.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Nicholas C | Jan 7 15
44 Answers

Disappointing phantom load on 27.2 SEER Fujitsu 9RLS2 minisplit

Looking for anyone with measurements of their mini-splits phantom and idle wattage use.

My newly installed 9RLS2 is using 80 watts, both when off and on but not running.
Other measurements while operating have been in spec range and are fairly impressive.

So I take it that SEER and HSPF ratings must not effectively measure/include phantom or idle loads. Heck just the fan at full speed uses only 25 watts

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By bob coleman | Jul 12 13
2 Answers

New Mitsubishi Hyper Heat multi splits have finally arrived

I was having a discussion with someone on reddit and they mentioned having a MXZ-3C24NAHZ model recommended by a contractor, which I had never seen before. Googled it and, lo and behold, I find documents published just a couple months ago (like this one) describing a whole new line of Hyper Heat multi splits, sized from 20,000 BTU/hr through 48,000, and supporting 2 to 8 indoor units. HSPF rating is generally in the 9 to 11 range.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Nick Welch | Jan 13 15
11 Answers

Boiler water temp not matching aquastat setting

I have a hydronic heating system- mostly cast iron radiators and a couple cast iron baseboards and 3 copper fin baseboards. Aquastat is set to 190*. Water temps only get to 150* before the boiler shuts off. Radiators throw heat, but the baseboards need hotter water to be effective IMO. In any event, I'm not sure where to look first. Can this possibly an issue with my programmable thermostat? The room reaches the temperature it need to, to satisfy the thermostat. Thanks

In Mechanicals | Asked By Ric Pasqua | Jan 12 15
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