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1 Answer

Insulating my granny flat

I just purchased a home that has a back studio. We has 2 days of a heat wave and it was suffocating. I investigated and the attic crawl space has no insulation. And the studio interior wall are all paneling and there is no insulation behind. I spoke with an insulation installer/ handyman and he said he could blow insulation into the walls from outside. My concern is, will the paneling hold up against the insulation? I have spent a lot getting this house together and I'm a but limited now and can't afford having someone come in and drywall
Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Mary Norrup | May 9 15
2 Answers

The age-old question: open- or closed-cell foam?

I know the questions has been asked a hundred times. I'm building in zone 3. I'll be using Zip System R panels. The living room and kitchen is open and under a cathedral ceiling. Everytime I think I figure out what foam to use, I read another article that tells me the opposite or my builder or insulation guy says something different. I know with the zip system it needs to dry to the inside so I was leaning toward open cell in the walls. The cathedral and the other parts of the roof is where I really don't know what to do. That's why I asking the experts here.

In General questions | Asked By Eric Chandler | May 9 15
3 Answers

OC Foam in Exterior Walls

I am a homeowner buying a new house in the Boston area, climate zone 5. The finished area of the house will be in the 5000-6000 range including the basement and attic. I got involved after some work was already done. Namely the roof deck has been sprayed with open-cell (OC) foam. I have a separate discussion going with Martin and Dana on that topic.

The question now is related to exterior wall insulation which needs to be decided. The builder is planning to do the following:

1) Closed-cell (CC) spray foam on interior basement walls and basement rim joists

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Amenhauser | May 8 15
14 Answers

Open cell spray foam on roof deck & vapor retarding primer

Hi,

In Green building techniques | Asked By David Amenhauser | May 4 15
3 Answers

16 ga. or 18 ga. wire for lighting circuit?

LED lights are 5 watts.
Do we still need 12 ga or 14 ga wire?

In Building Code Questions | Asked By C Darwin | May 7 15
3 Answers

Is a radiant barrier a good idea for rigid foam under siding?

I have posted many details and questions in this separate post: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-an...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chad B | May 8 15
7 Answers

Building a home - to code?

Hello all,

Thanks for taking the time to read my post. I am in the process of designing a small (~ 700 sq. ft.), off-grid house. My intention is to do as much of the design and construction as possible with my own head and hands.

I've been a car mechanic for 10 years, and so have a good understanding of the basic principles of electricity (the house will use 12V wherever possible), HVAC, plumbing, etc. However, I don't have much in the way of hands-on experience with construction.

Two questions (among many) occur:

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Tomas Gray | Apr 23 15
3 Answers

What causes condensation in every window in the house?

Recently we built a new home with stucco exterior and icynene spray foam insulation. In the winter months condensation develops in every window of the house even the front door. What could be causing this problem? I suspect the heating and cooling contractor may have used the bubble wrap underneath the house to wrap the heating and cooling distribution system. Could this be the problem?
Thanking you in advance for your cooperation and advice.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Joann Mullins | May 8 15
2 Answers

Looking for curbless shower floor in concrete slab details.

I've heard that builders take different approaches to dealing with the lowered area of the slab. Some form the depression intergal with the rest of the floor while others block it out and pour it later. I'm currently laying the underslab dwv system and building a box that will provide a void in the fill and EPS to install the p-trap and drain piece later at the correct height. Also, I hope the detail would show how the EPS is handled under the shower area. If using 2 layers of 2" EPS are they both set down 2" to maintain thickness of the foam and concrete? Thanks for any info on this.

In General questions | Asked By Chuck Jensen | May 7 15
12 Answers

Suggestion for making a 30 year old home more efficient while roof and siding are off

We live in Columbus, Ohio and have a home built in 1986 with the following floors. Floorplans and photo are attached as an FYI.
- Basement: 740sf finished, 250sf crawl space
- 1st floor: 1000sf
- 2nd floor: 800sf

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chad B | Apr 25 15
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