John F Cross
'My' Outside (Heated) Air In the mid '80's (pre-certified) I bought a maker-modified, Sedore, furnace model, wood stove, with a 3" inlet, near the bottom of the ??air surround??, around the combustion chamber ('my' location point). With a slide-gate shutoff, and ABS pipe going through an unheated crawlspace, to the outside, about 10' away. The outside, air is heated by the stove, warms the room - combustion air, from the room, burns and goes up a SupraFlu R5/inch insulated, inside, masonry chimney. 'My' theory is " cold o/s air is heated, slightly pressurizing the inside, so that warm air flows to the extremities, rather than pulling (cold) air from the extremities, with room-stale air being combusted. I realize this violates my current building code! The Sedore Stove is a bottom burner, loading from the top on one side of a baffle that separates the chimney side. It can burn at very low (fire) temperature levels, as long as there are coals-flame under the baffle to burn any creosote gasses. Very effective, as I can heat at -30'F. At +50'F, I allow the coals to (almost) burn out - add wood chips-wood pellets and a new log and re-create a renewed, fire-coals, under the baffle, warming the room. There is a users YouTube video, showing the loading door 'wide open' when the stove is in use! NOT the way 'my' stove operates, with good draft, from the o/s air. I realize, the importance of the building code - not allowing 'my' method, even though it ensures fresh air in the room. It took time to train my kids to open the slide gate to bring in the o/s air. Otherwise, the draft is poor, with the risk of a backdraft. Until you learn (any) a stoves operation, do not go away, leaving it alone! 'My' Sedore, rarely operates with a chimney temperature above 200'F - except at (fresh) start-up and (about) minus -30'F. I burn almost anything - softwood, pine needle (chipped) boughs, etc. I get very little creosote in my annual chimney sweep. I 'like' the heat holding, masonry chimney vs a metal, insulated chimney; and the burny baffle, feature. With about 30 years experience with the Sedore stove - both year round weekend use, and now full time, year round, use, now also using a Mini-split (my kids are 'lite' on the (small) amount of firewood needed - I have learned and mastered the quirks of the Sedore, in my situation. I don't know how, I would (legally) configure a similar, current configuration, without a direct-heated air, connection. Even with a furnace, a combustion air, outside connection, extremely, varies the density and temperature of the air!
Posted: 12:17 pm on November 5th 2013
Maximizing TOU Rates I have a Fujitsu 12RLS1 and a Sedore wood stove, heating 800 sqft downstairs, that can be shut off from the same area, upstairs. My winter TOU Rates for only the power portion, are almost double between 7 - 11 am and 5 - 7 pm; vs the low rate 7 pm - 7 am, (5 day rates). Ideally, I want to use more power when the outside temperature is warmest (late afternoon) and when rates are lowest. 'Bass-awkward' to the normal, night time, temperature, set back. I think, the unit works most efficiently, with the inverter motor, working at its slowest speed. The motor seems to crank up, when the temperature is raised only 2'F Much like a former boiler-radiator heated house, it would appear best not to set back the temperature but leave it constant, even for the weekends. Occasionally, I have moved the remote from a very, slightly warmer/cooler area of the room, and the inverter motor generally 'cranks up'. When my kids come for the weekend, I generally boost the temperature with the wood stove (using a central stairway) to the upstairs. With the kids in charge of the firewood - I am generally light! They are more willing to burn the Nuke. Very pleased with my Mini-split; I can leave it alone! The newer model, 12RLS(2), has a heater on the outside unit and works more effectively to a lower o/s temperature.
Posted: 09:46 pm on November 5th 2013
Masonry Chimneys - Supaflu I have had good experience with 3 Supaflu liners, since the '80's. One, on a 1920's built, 2 story, lined with (broken) clay tile. Ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom were 'pushed' askew, when the liner was installed - indicating how bad the existing chimney was. The other two, were in a new construction, one was 2-story, the other, 1-story - lining the brick 'hole'. Two years ago, the 'above the roof' part was repaired - new brick, and a liner made with 1/3 Poraver as aggregate in the mix. Supaflu was not used because of the expense, for a small job, in a water access location. I am very pleased. The liner is quite solid (knocking it down) and has a R value (insulation). I am surprised that I don't see many references to Supaflu. I did not want a metal chimney, that I thought would have to be replaced (by my successors).
Posted: 05:37 pm on January 5th 2014
CarbonCure Atlas Block, a primary signee to CarbonCure, has been bought (at auction) by Brampton Brick. My original interest in Atlas Block was their lightweight block, using Poraver, as up to 30% of the aggregate. The Poraver product, is made from Blue Box, recycled, glass. The 8" block weights only 20 lb. I have also used Poraver to repair a Supaflu, poured in place, chimney liner, in a 'water access' location. Originally, I wanted the deteriorated brick, (not the liner) above the roof, to be carefully removed - 'use a nail file, if you need to' - of course, my contractor w/couldn't ! The Poraver, mortar mix, also has a high temperature, light weight, and 'slight' insulation value, and has worked well (2 winters). I hope the CarbonCure and Poraver knowledge, has not been lost.
Posted: 01:00 pm on May 8th 2014
'My' Floor Insulating Solution I had a fiberglass bat, enclosed with chicken wire floor - absolutely filled with 'meece' nests (plural of mice).. I subsequently raised it, and installed a sip insulated 'down stairs' floor, removing the bats and chicken wire from the 'ceiling', and enclosing the crawl space - cross venting it with bin windows that open to the inside. If your situation were mine, I would carefully, foam your under floor, multi times to meet the R 20 requirement - in a manner that each layer, cured thoroughly. An uncured, thick layer would be a serious problem! In your location meeting code is probably more important than 'super insulating' the floor, I also believe that the Fab-form, footing form, would be the easiest/cheapest form - to then create a ?? 2 x 4 ?? enclosure wall (with bin window, venting). In my case, the building inspector, did pass and acknowledged my 'near code' crawl space as acceptable to him. To my knowledge, I do not have a moisture (in the structure) problem - no mold. I mostly close the bin windows in winter. Being directly on rock - I have kept beer, all winter, sitting on the crawl space floor. I do not expect a water problem, from above the crawl space. In my case, the wiring and hot/cold water are in the accessible, suspended ceiling (formerly under floor - before the raise). As I am on a drain back, lake pump water system - where power frequently goes off - I can shut off the pump and slope drain the water, when I leave for an extended period. It works! - especially with a mini-split, wood stove and inline water heater.
Posted: 09:43 pm on June 20th 2014
Melting Ice in the Drain Pan The outside drain pan, of my Fujitsu 12RLS has frozen. I have left power - ON, (hope the compressor is not damaged) but have turned the Remote Controller - OFF. It seems to ice up when the Dew point is close to the outside temperature (near freezing and extremely cold). Once, near freezing, I was able to 'Cool" and 'extend' the defrost cycle, and melt the ice. Now,at extreme cold, the drain hole is blocked, and ice has built up, to over the top of the pan! I no longer can build enough heat, and 'Cool" the pan and fins, at extreme cold temperatures. I would appreciate it, if various solutions were posted. I am thinking that a manually (plug In/Out) controlled, base, heater - would be adequate for me. I am not sure, if I should also wrap a cable around the sides, to also clear the fins. I expect to visually watch the melting, before disconnecting the heat. I am also planning to 'activate' the defrost cycle, nearer to (below) the freezing point, to melt the ice - rather than wait for temperatures above freezing, and turn on the 'Heat' mode. (I have read about the 'parts availability' concerns. My unit was installed by my son in law, in my remote location - who installs other brands, but is not authorized by Fujitsu.)
Posted: 01:04 pm on February 25th 2015
RE: Melting Ice in the Drain Pan (see above) I was able to melt the ice, using 'Cool' and high fan, settings, at a o/s temperature just below freezing. I think I am correct - when I leave (place is warm), setting the control at 'Min-Heat' the unit immediately, starts cooling (at the econo fan setting) - rather than 'waiting' or using heat (at the econo fan setting), before, then, maintaining the Min-Heat temperature! I was unable to activate the 'defrost' setting. I used about 5000 watts of (other) heat and the 'Cool' setting, longer than 4 hours using, the 'fins' heat, to melt the drain pan. I have also determined, at extreme cold o/s temperatures, the defrost time is too short to completely, melt the grill, that surrounds the fins. The defrost setting is automatically activated, but (sometimes) comes on when the unit is turned 'OFF' Turning the unit 'OFF' does not activate the defrost cycle, even allowing 'time for normalizing' at a low heat setting - ice continues to build on the fins. I would like someone to describe a 'visual' of the Fujitsu, pan heater. I have not yet found a good picture. I cannot determine if the heat cable is outside or inside! etc.
Posted: 11:46 am on March 4th 2015
Thanks, Bob Coleman I appreciate your explanation(s) of the defrost cycle and 'min-heat'. I will need to rethink my o/s unit, as it is over 10' above the ground! (maybe, leave a handy ladder, and configure my o/s hose to be able to also use heated water). I definitely need to be able to melt the ice in the pan. I had the mini-split OFF for several days, until the temperature warmed up. The ice buildup was pushing out the grill, and I thought, might soon touch the fan. I had not expected 'min-heat' to run 'high fan' until 'heat' was required! Makes sense.
Posted: 05:54 pm on March 11th 2015
Other Window Considerations Back in the early '80's, I raised my 'stick' bungalow, and installed a Nascor, 2' centres, sip, walls and floor (over a crawl space) on rock. My criterion for the openings - less was best, should completely, open, and easily conform to the 'sip spacing'(fewer headers, etc.) I used, the then, state of the art - Heat Mirror. All the windows were casement or awning. The casements were, centre opening, for cleaning and to catch any air movement from 3 directions. The awnings were 2' x 2' in the kitchen and washroom - designed to be left open, when I was absent, in hot temperatures and if it rained - too small to enter/break in. They maximise the cupboard area and provide bright counter light. There was another 2' x 4' awning, on an opposite wall, for cross ventilation. This awning window is the same size as 2 other casements. There are 2 other 4' x4', casements with twin opening panels - center opening. Fully opened, they do not interfere with walking past, outside. There are 11 windows, 3 sizes. The 'picture window' is a 9' wide, 3 panel, sliding patio door. When ordered, I thought that I could have it, 2/3 open, with the left and right panels, stacked behind the fixed, center panel. It is a standard, left and/or right, opening slider, on 1 track. Naughty me/sales person - for the ordering, misunderstanding! The steel, entry doors have an upper, venting window. It keeps cool as I have a center stair, that works as a chimney - to similar casement/awning windows, that extract air from downstairs and cross ventilate. To enter my 'big' upstairs awning, you would need to break the hinge and bring your own ladder. I feel that I have maximised the R values ( in the '80's) - and have better ventilation than a more typical, hung/slider/fixed, setup
Posted: 03:09 pm on February 24th 2016
Casement - Awning Windows I have used 'double' opening, casement windows, that open 90', with the hinges in the 'centre' and also with below ' lower' awning, windows. The casements, so that they would get the maximum air in/out with the wind from 'left/right' and 'head on' ! The awning windows, so I can leave them (partially) open when I go away, and not have the risk of rain entry. Rainaway glass, was inexpensive, at $1 per square foot! Gary Katz has the 'best' instructions/video, for entry door installation - screw placement - shim locations, etc., that I have found on the internet.
Posted: 05:35 pm on November 29th 2017