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6 inch or 4 inch duct for Panasonic ERV

joenorm | Posted in General Questions on

Can someone tell me if I am shooting myself in the foot using only 4 inch duct with the Panasonic Intellibalance ERV?

The house is compact at 1400 Squarefeet, with a footprint of 1080 so runs will be limited in length.

I am trying to get all the runs within the framing of the structure hence the desire to use 4 inch. But I read a lot here and people seem to recommend 6 inch.

If I can make it work in 6 I will but some spots are pretty tight. I don’t want to go to all the trouble running ducting just to have it perform poorly.

Another question, if I am within the conditioned envelope of the house for all runs I don’t need insulated duct, correct?

Thanks

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Replies

  1. MattJF | | #1

    The answer to your question depends on how many cfm you plan on running.

    If you are not sure, read this:
    https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/62474/Lstiburek-Has-New-Ventilation-Standard-Resistance-May-Not-Be-Futile

  2. Expert Member
    Akos | | #2

    Joe,

    Not sure how your place is but assuming a 2 bedroom layout, you need (in my area):
    -master 21cfm
    -2nd bed 11cfm
    -living 11cfm
    -dining 11cfm
    -kitchen 11cfm
    total 65cfm

    Running that through a 4" trunk is doable if you limit bends. I would bump it up and go with 6" oval ducts (with are equivalent to 5" round). This would reduce your pressure drop a fair bit and allow for much more flow in boost mode.

    I know people are hesitant to run bulkheads but it is the simplest in lot of these cases. Trying to tuck everything into walls is a lot more work. Once in, nobody every really notices them (see attached) especially if you can run them above the door inside rooms.

    You don't need to insulate any of the ducts after the ERV, the air in there is near room temperature, there is no chance of condensation. You do need to insulate the ducts running outside.

    1. cldlhd | | #5

      I know this is an old thread and I get what you’re saying regarding not needing to insulate the ducts because of the temperature of the air but I imagine if you’re running the ducts in an unconditioned you would need to insulate them or the efficiency would take a big hit?

      1. Expert Member
        BILL WICHERS | | #6

        You need to insulated ductwork in unconditioned spaces like attics and crawlspaces. In the case of bathroom exhaust fans, the reason to insulate the ductwork is more to limit condensation though, it doesn't really do anything for efficiency. With supply ducts (heating/air conditioning), insulation is to improve efficiency, as are the codes requiring the joints between duct sections to be sealed.

        Bill

  3. joenorm | | #3

    Thank you,

    Out of curiosity where in the country is this now a requirement? My neck of the woods the standard is one "whole house" fan still.

    I think I can actually do it in 6". The challenge is getting up to the ceiling where I have pretty deep parallel cord trusses. I wanted to avoid any ducts up there but its basically the only way I could accomplish this.

    Leads me to my next question........Its a vented roof so if I have a duct in trusses is there a risk of cooling that pipe if it gets too close to the air flow and running into problems?

    Next question......can vents in ductwork be "inline" with each other? for example I want to exhaust out of the two baths and one laundry. I would basically have one long snake of ductwork with ports at each location. Does this mean the last bathroom has less flow than the first area of exhaust?

    I've become a fairly knowledgeable amateur builder over the years but HVAC is completely new to me.

    Thanks again

    1. Expert Member
      Akos | | #4

      I'm in the Toronto area. HRVs are part of the new energy compliance package.

      You generally don't want to run any vents in the attic area, I would find a way to keep it inside your building envelope.

      Duct work can be in line, usually in that case the best way to deal with flow balancing is a reducing trunk design. You start with a large duct at the HRV and step it down at each takeoff. You still want dampers at the takeoffs for balancing.

      You can also go with a large trunk and cut register openings but it is harder to deal with balancing in that case. Not so critical for stale air pickups but you want some control over delivery into the bedrooms to ensure adequate ventilation.

      If you post a floor plan and a couple of pictures of the proposed location, can look at some of the options.

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