Advanced framing details
user-2069108
| Posted in Green Building Techniques on
My local Habitat for Humanity is using a pseudo advanced framing, and I would like to persuade them to go further, but I have a question or two.
If we were to remove the cap plate in the walls, what is used to connect wall T intersections, and straight wall top plate to plate.
A gusset, like used in trusses or a couple standard 16 inch straps? Or is there a 5 1/2″ by 16″ plate?
I see Simpson makes header straps so we can eliminate Jack studs. How do folks feel about no Jack studs on a door RO?
Steve Young
PS There may be more questions as I start to draw out a full advanced frame wall versus what we are doing.
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Replies
Steve,
Here is how some of the other Habitat chapters have done it:
https://www.efficiencyvermont.com/Media/Default/bbd/2017/docs/presentations/efficiency-vermont-edminster-what-can-sunny-california-teach-the-chilly-northeast.pdf
LOTS of great ideas. Great results. Good to see such progress.
Except...I'm bothered by carving out the bottoms of studs for electrical wiring along the bottom plate. Most stress on studs is top and bottom foot or so. Especially in earthquake country, seems risky.
Robert,
Yes that puzzled me too. Our code wants three nails connecting the bottom plate to the studs. Not sure how you would get that in with the kerf cut out.
Before going too far on advanced framing take a look at this:
https://www.protradecraft.com/article/advanced-framing-dos-and-dont-bothers
I've tried most of them them and fully agree with the author.
Akos,
I agree. My feeling is that in general it's better to frame the way the makes sense structurally and then work out an efficient wall assembly that goes with that.
The other caution is the some of the advanced framing doesn't meet prescriptive paths to compliance in our code and would require an engineer's approval.
Thank you for your thoughts and links. Like you, I saw a few things that looked suspect in the CA Habitat pdf. I did like the photos because I could see the details.
I was very much intrigued by the idea of leaving a gap between interior walls and exterior walls to allow a continuous sheet of drywall. I mentioned this to a colleague today and he said that was SOP in commercial construction. Cool.
I was under the impression that Advanced framing was all engineer-approved for non special circumstances (like earthquake or windstorm). We are in central Ohio.
Steve,
Advanced framing can encompass a variety of techniques, not all of which are covered under the prescriptive paths to compliance in building codes. Some parts may fly, some other may not. I don't mean to be discouraging but a Habitat build using volunteers and crews who don't work together regularly is one of the last places I would choose to deviate from standard construction techniques.
The gap for drywall brings with it several complications.:
- You can not run wires, ducts or plumbing between the two walls.
- Because you don't have ceiling drywall in between the two you end up with a gap over your top wall board that needs sealing.
- Interior partitions are a natural place to end sheets. If you run them past you end up with a butt joint in the field, which is something you try to avoid.