Can-less LED lights

The new can-less LED Halo style lights look super thin and would seem mountable into drywall attached to 2×4 or 2×3 furring strips placed flat side up below a nice continuous air/vapor barrier ceiling. The metal connector boxes that work with these appear much thicker in cross section and I’m wondering if they can be fit within the 1 1/2″ chase that this method of doing a ceiling would create.
If there’s a specific brand/model of light any of you are particularly liking I’d love to know that too. Thanks!
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Yes, the transformers are separate and usually about 1-1/8" tall, and you need a bit of extra space to angle them into position, but a 1 1/2" space works well. It's my standard detail for insulated ceilings.
Some models of the Halo LED's have driver boxes that sprout mounting wings which makes them effectively longer and more difficult to slide up into the (in my case 4" ) hole. They seem to need some extra height above them to make the insertion angles feasible. You'll probably need to open a sample package(s) to have a look at the specific driver box therein. Speaking from recent experience, you'll want a sufficient amount of excess Romex to be able to fiddle the driver boxes in and out easily, planning ahead for future replacements.
Thanks Dadams! I take it that it's fine to just slide the diver box up into the open space where it rests without being attached in any way to the strapping beyond the last staple that attaches the Romex to the strapping? Do you have a particular make/model you've had especially good experience with?
Hugh
Sorry Hugh, not really. I've just installed about 70 around my house but a variety of brands, sizes and styles for different locations and effects, all but a few were in cut-down and sealed Insulite boxes with 5" target depth. For most, the connection/LED driver boxes were as Michael mentioned: small enough to easily slide into a furring slot. The Halo's I selected for LR were 4" recessed, a bit thicker so likely would not work in your thinner furring gap situation, AND they happened to have these odd screw mounting wings which made them effectively about 5-6" long and needing depth behind to go up into a 4" hole - more difficult to work with. I can't speak to code but otherwise they mostly all seem to be designed to just slide into such a furring gap - they all have about an 8" low voltage lead to the fixture with a plastic quick connect allowing the driver box to be slid in quite a ways. As to planning ahead, you or your electrician will thank their lucky stars when you have to change a failed one unexpectedly soon if the extra Romex is there (ask me how I know). More importantly, up to a point the extra Romex also helped with extra flexibility to get the driver box oriented better so that it slid in easier. In your case, there'd be ample room for 12" extra or more - recommended.
I'm currently in the middle of installed RAB brand lights in my new house. the lights and the driver box are separate, super easy to install, and very thin.
Thanks for the recommendation Eric. The reviews on them seem pretty universally excellent. Any thoughts on 4" vs 6" units?
We have a two story house that has 12ft ceilings on the first floor and 8ft on the second. I was thinking 4in upstairs but the cost and lumens weren't that much different so I just grabbed 6in and I'm putting everything on Lutron dimmer switches
I installed about 50 of these in my house a couple years ago. They are easy to install and I haven't had any issues with them failing yet. I installed 6 in the kitchen of my old house about 5 years ago and haven't had any failures.
I got whatever was cheap on Amazon. The junction boxes are 1 3/8" and the wings on the lights themselves are 1 7/16 when sticking straight up for installation so putting them in over 1.5" furring strips should work fine, although that wasn't my setup.
I'm still mostly using flush-mount LED fixtures that can be put on standard light boxes. I find the boxes easier to reliably seal, and it future proofs the lighting as styles change.