Replies

1. 
   climbing_carpenter | May 16, 2025 10:16am | #1

   For the record, LP is inexpensive. You've built a large building and are experiencing compounding material costs. If you're concerned about maintenance of pine siding, consider LP B&B (last I checked about $2/ sq ft, primed). I always seal pine- all 4 sides.

   Tyvek is not a good product. Consider VP100 which can act as an air control layer, too.

   Regarding vertical siding: horizontal strapping will provide an air gap and easy nailing for the siding and will drain well enough- I'm sure others here will disagree with me.

   If you're working alone, do not miter vertical courses. Add trim details that'll allow you to work with shorter boards.

   Window bucks won't be necessary, build out the openings with the same strapping material you use for the rain screen. Windows should be air sealed and flashed to the VP100.

2. 
   jollygreenshortguy | May 16, 2025 11:07am | #2

   Consider reverse board and batten. Your battens create the rainscreen gap. This will save both material and labor. Tyvek is fine if you cover it fairly quickly. At least putting up the battens would help keep it from wind damage. Others on GBA recommend upgrading to Tyvek commercial wrap. Climbing's suggestion of VP100 is certainly fine. There are plenty of upgraded wraps like that. It's all just a question of cost. The main advantage to the more durable and expensive options is that they can stand up to many more months of abuse, giving you time to do your siding. On the other hand, if you can schedule the work to happen fast you can save money and use the cheaper Tyvek and it will be just fine. And frankly, there is absolutely nothing wrong with 15# asphalt felt or Grade D building paper, if they are covered quickly. Once your final siding goes up all those choices will last a long time.

   One other siding possibility - "APA rated siding" is plywood that can be permanently exposed. (Prime all surfaces and edges.) Sheets are 4' wide and up to 10' long. If your wall height is 10' or less you'll have no horizontal joints. Nice. Apply it over vertical furring strips. These can be 1x2 lumber, or strips cut from plywood sheets. If you want a board and batten appearance you can always apply 1x2 battens over the plywood siding at any spacing that pleases your eye.

3. 
   climbing_carpenter | May 16, 2025 11:21am | #3

   Good suggestion on the reverse b&b.

   My qualms with Tyvek aren't due to exposure time: it degrades over time. Every older wall I've opened with Tyvek, the Tyvek disintegrates and falls apart where other wraps, including felt paper, haven't. That aside, it has a difficult time withstanding the construction process. Suggested vp100 here because it can be defined easily as an air barrier, an allowance the Op has not made.

1. 
   Malcolm_Taylor | May 16, 2025 11:48am | #4

   CC,

   Yeah, regular Tyvek is it tears if you just look at it the wrong way. I use Tyvek Commercial.

   I’d probably tape the sheathing as the primary air-barrier.

2. 
   paulmagnuscalabro | May 16, 2025 11:52am | #5

   climbing_carpenter,

   I've also uncovered lots of rotted Tyvek, mostly back when i was swinging a hammer in the New England area. I suspect that a lot of the issues were the compounded effects of poorly installed inadequate insulation in the walls, and a lack of ability to dry to the exterior - I'm thinking of homeowners calling about peeling paint on clapboards, and then discovering rotted plywood and framing behind a deteriorated layer of Tyvek (no rainscreen). That said, I do think New England is particularly unforgiving on buildings. Where I now work (Bozeman, MT) it is so much drier that low-grade lumber yard Tyvek seems to last okay, whether it's in a poorly-designed/installed assembly or left to the weather for a decade. Basically, the dry climate makes it easier to "get away with it."

   But yeah - Tyvek wouldn't be my first choice here (or anywhere), either.

   I forget what the OP's insulation plan is, but an inexpensive and effective way to go might be taped sheathing (as Malcolm suggested) + asphalt felt paper cap-nailed up and shingle-lapped + reverse board & batten (as jollygreenshortguy suggested). It's a pretty old school approach, but it works and would fit right in in VT.

4. 
   xtal_01 | May 16, 2025 10:43pm | #6

   Awesome! Thanks for the info and thoughts. I have zero money in labor so I don't mind upgrading the tyvek to ??? Self sticking wrap might be easier that the tyvek.

   Reverse board and batten ...interesting!

   You are right ...LP 4 x 8 sheets are about $2 per sq ft. I guess then I need to think about 10,000 plus sq ft of paint.

   Just FYI, the walls are 2 x 6 ... just going with fiberglass or rock wool ... I have a 24" gap above the ceiling so 12 - 18" of insulation and a 6" air gap.

   I would have never guessed felt paper vs Tyvek. I have a piece of Tyvek on the roof for two years .... direct sun ... still OK.

   I do want the building to "fit in" ... board and batten (or reverse board and batten) or ship lap ... anything like that will fit right in.

   Thanks again so very much for all the input !!!!!!!!!!

   Mike

   PS ... you can see a few more pictures and videos of the build on my facebook page:

   https://www.facebook.com/VermontCountryWorkshop

5. 
   xtal_01 | May 18, 2025 11:56pm | #7

   OK ... so I still have one issue ... how to install the windows.

   Lets say I put furring strips.

   Do I install the windows .. then furring strips, boards and then trim on the outside?

   Or maybe buck out the window ... then rap over the wall and bucking ... then windows?

   Or ?????

   Thanks ... Mike

6. Expert Member
   Akos | May 20, 2025 08:52pm | #8

   You can use standard rain screen window install details. This is a pretty good illustration:

   https://hammerandhand.com/manual-category/rain-screens/