Long time lurker, first time poster.

Basic Info:
New Build 1,500 SF
Near Saranac Lake, New York, Adirondack Mountains, climate zone 7a, (6a region but colder locally due to elevation).
2×6 walls 24″ OC, Exterior Insulation
Solo, Self-build
Much construction-adjacent experience (construction management, renovation work, design, etc), but first house build.

I am following, generally for wall assembly/strategy, the BSC Very Cold Case Study House for Juneau, AK (Part of Building America). My house will sit on concrete fin walls up above exposed ledge (open air between ledge and floor joists).
BSC Case Study Link:
https://buildingscience.com/documents/houseplans/hp-very-cold-recommendations/view
BSC House Plan Set Link:
https://buildingscience.com/documents/houseplans/hp-juneau-ak-example/view

Main Question:
In the case study house, the floor insulation is sandwiched between sheathing with the air barrier underneath the upper sheathing. The exterior walls are then built on top of this floor assembly. During framing, until it’s dried in, I worry that this assembly becomes something of a bathtub. The seams of the upper sheathing are going to let rain water down to pool on top of the air barrier which will almost certainly find its way through the edges of hundreds of screw perforations into the insulation cavity. I’m solo building this, so the framing process will be longer than normal.

1) Does anyone know if this case study house was ever built? I can’t find anything except the report and plans online.
2) Base Detail: Am I over-thinking this water penetration worry during framing? I don’t think of this as a simple “my subfloor got wet” concern, but I’m new to this.
3) Alternative Detail 01: I could build the rim-board section, run a strip of air barrier (to be lapped/taped later to the future floor and wall barrier) and build the exterior walls on top of it. This would leave the insulation, floor air barrier, and top floor sheathing until after the house is dried in. It makes sequencing and framing tilt up more complicated but keeps the air barrier and insulation in the same location and negates my bathtub worry. This is my leading strategy as of now, despite its added complication.
4) Alternative Detail 02: Frame the wall studs directly on the bottom layer of sheathing with a strip of air barrier underneath (to be lapped/taped to future floor and wall barrier). This is the strongest and simplest framing strategy. But it creates a pocket of insulation inside the air barrier instead of keeping the insulation on the exterior. Is that just begging for interior condensation and eventual rot?

My structural engineer is fine with any of these 3 details.

Bonus Question: Hardwood flooring installation guidelines say to use full-spread adhesive to glue the flooring to the subfloor. Is this just creating a condition where the upper subfloor can now only dry downward through the air barrier and insulation?  That seems to negate one of the benefits of this wall/floor assembly of drying potential in both directions for wall/floor/roof? Am I interpreting this correctly and is it enough of concern to abandon wider plank wood flooring (requiring the adhesive)? Aesthetically I want the wider plank flooring. But I don’t want to build something that’s not going to perform and that I’m going to eventually regret. I feel like I’m overthinking this one but figured I’d throw it out there.

Preemptive thank you, both to everyone who comments here, but also to Martin Holladay, Malcolm Taylor, and all the other editors and regular contributors who I have been reading for the last two years. I may not know a lot, but I know more than before…

-Andrew