Building new home in Delaware and using insulated Zip exterior sheathing
EdSe | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on
Addressing the stud cavities, should I tape or caulk zip insulation to studs or is the compressed sheathing insulation to stub enough.
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Every house needs an air barrier. If you are using Zip-R sheathing, it makes sense to tape the sheathing seams with Zip System tape (which, as far as I know, is required by the manufacturer's installation instructions).
If you have taped the Zip sheathing seams, there isn't any reason to add additional caulk.
I'm not sure what you mean by your last question: "Is the compressed sheathing insulation to stub enough?"
My interpretation of that is that it's ZIP-R, and the question is whether the compression of the polyiso side against the sTUD (not "stub") sufficiently air tight.
Taped ZIP is fine for air sealing the sheathing joints, but it still needs air sealing attention at the sheathing top & bottom edges, and window & door openings, etc.
On a different page, Edward just posted this comment: "Sorry the word was stud. I am addressing the interior stud cavity."
If your part Delaware is in a hurricane zone please be sure to do your home work and be sure you have enough structure to resist any wind that could come your way.
As I recall the non hurricane nail schedule for Zip+R was over 100 nails per 4x8 sheet.
That's how we fasten all our sheathing now. The boxes of nails just disappear.
3 inches on center is your standard nailing schedule?
Are you in a hurricane zone?
No a high seismic zone. The local code calls for 40% of each face of the building to be "braced wall panels" (shear walls) continuous from foundation to roof, and internally every so many meters. I guess you could try and distinguish where on a sheet of plywood they ended and nail less intensely there, but in practice it's easier to nail off everything to the same schedule. It sure helps concentrate the mind while you are framing. If you mess up you aren't pulling off a sheet.