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Energy-efficient tack room?

DEnd2000 | Posted in General Questions on

We are adding a tack room to our barn this summer Climate zone 4a but near the edge with 3a). The reasoning is to provide more secure and better storage for the tack for our horses (consisting of a few saddles, driving harnesses, halters, blankets etc…)

Most of the tack rooms I’ve been in are just rooms built in the barn. They do a reasonable but not great job of keeping the dust and critters out. However none that I am aware of do anything to condition the space.

Ours will be decently sized but small for conditioning purposes (about 12’x10′). We are considering conditioning to protect the tack in the long term, though admittedly most of the damage I’ve seen done to tack is from wear and tear (ie dirt wearing down and weakening straps).

We are not entirely sure on the construction details yet. What we are working with is a previously built barn with a concrete floor. What I am thinking is putting down some high density foam with some sheathing glued to the top (maybe have the edges wrapped with a galvanized or stainless wire mesh screen). For the two exterior walls I’m thinking about doing a double stud type system but with the exterior sheathing on the inside of the outside studs. This is so that I can tape the seams. I could do it more traditionally and have the plywood outside the outside studs, but I’m not sure how to really airseal the top and bottom edges, because I am not taking off the siding of the barn, if I can help it.

I’m also wondering how possible it is to do a good job installing a window shaker in a wall. Anyway I’ve attached a picture of what I’m working with, right now the space is hay storage, but the hay will be likely moving out of the barn.

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  1. GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #1

    O.K., you've described your plan. The only question you're asking (unless I missed something) is about air-sealing around a wall-mounted air conditioner.

    I've never done it, but I think that common sense applies: use gaskets and good carpentry skills to minimize air leaks around your air conditioner, and you should be fine.

  2. DEnd2000 | | #2

    Mainly I'm concerned that my plan isn't completely crazy. I don't want to introduce rot or other issues if I can help it.

  3. GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #3

    Your plan isn't crazy.

    My only comment: when builders install plywood subflooring on top of rigid foam, they usually either (a) secure the subfloor with long TapCon screws that extend through the rigid foam to the concrete below, or (b) install two layers of 3/4-inch plywood with staggered seams, screwed to each other to prevent "potato-chipping."

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