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Flash/Mooney/cellulose?

SpaceIn-between | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on

In zone 6/5, attached barn from late 1800’s. Timber frame, true 2×3, boards, lap, and then vinyl (I didn’t do it). Someone raised it and poured a concrete foundation. Leaving the ceiling / roof out of the equation for now.

Ceiling height code will be a stinker if I build up the floor much so… floating floor (2×4 grid with XPS) over poly barrier. Don’t feel like it’s enough at the wall edges, concrete “sucking” out the heat Playing with raising the sub floor near the exterior walls, sort like a built in ledge / kick plate, for some layer foil panels. Sounds strange but it’ll look nice.

I’ve pack ratted a few rolls of sill plate foam to make breaks on each thermal bridge (floor and the Mooney wall). For the wall I’m building out the existing studs with parallel 2×2’s before hitting between with a 2″ closed foam flash… Gordon. After that add the horizontal 2x2s to make my Mooney, insulweb, staple, glue, laugh, and then fill with dense pack cellulose. Dry wall, mud, paint, and clean up.

My questions are….

Ideally would a floor build over a slab have a higher r-vale near the exterior walls than the center of the room to mitigate the heat loss brought on by the thermal bridge between the foundation and external soil?

I haven’t heard much about flash and blown in, any reason for that besides that I haven’t done my homework? I’m aware the flash/bat thing was developed to save costs yet the uneven surface of sprayed foam would likely result in many air pockets when bats are installed?

Assuming I’ll go with flash and dense blown cellulose are there end result differences between wet or dry cellulose if both are blown at 3.5 lb regarding stopping air flow and r-value?

Am I correct the barrier caused by flash foaming likely would effect how wet blown cellulose dries? Is this reason to not use wet cellulose or might there be a different approach to the drying procedure/ how soon I should put up the drywall? (more than 24-48 hrs after)

Thanks

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Replies

  1. GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #1

    T Stills,
    Your paragraphs have plenty of puns, but not enough construction details (or clarity) to help us answer your questions.

    Q. "Does the floating floor's diabolical heat loss get foiled?"

    A. You question is unclear. I think you are asking something like, "What's a good way to insulate above an existing slab floor without losing too much ceiling height?" The answer is, use a continuous layer of foam insulation (not little strips of foam insulation between 2x4 framing) -- as much as you think your ceiling height will allow you to install -- followed by a layer of plywood. You should screw the plywood to the concrete below. Alternatively, you can install two layers of 3/4" plywood with staggered seams, and screw the two layers of plywood to each other.

    Q. "I haven't heard much about flash and dense pack cellulose, any experience out there?"

    A. Your question is unclear. Yes, other people have done it.

    Q. "Bats matching up to the lumpy foam?"

    A. I understand that you are setting up a pun (bats / batts), but what are you talking about? Obviously, there are no batts if you are installing cellulose.

    Q. "Should I chicken wire over the Insulweb?"

    A. No. If you want more information on installing cellulose, see How to Install Cellulose Insulation.

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