If you were interested in building less than 1000 sf “Pretty Good House” in NYS how would you proceed?
My partner and I are interested in building or having built a small “Pretty Good House” in building climate zone 5A of New York State. I’m wondering if stamped, engineered plans already exist for such an endeavor so that we would not have to reinvent the wheel with all the associated costs involved. While I’m here I’d love to hear thoughts regarding minimizing costs while not compromising energy efficiency, comfort and durability. Lavish accoutrements are of no interest. We would have access to recycled polyisocyanurate, Amish saw mills. Keeping property taxes low is also a concern.
Thought regarding basement vs slab on grade?
One vs two stories?
2×6 with exterior polyiso vs double wall
Modular?
Thanks for any advice you might have! I’m certain to have many more questions and greatly appreciate the breadth and depth of knowledge this forum has to offer.
Hugh
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Replies
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/roast-review-a-design
I posted some plans at the link above. Not really sure if that's what you're going for or not. They were based around zone 4A but they may or may not work for 5A. They're not stamped and I'm not currently licensed in NY. Do they require a stamped design where you are? I mostly do commercial work so I'm not as familiar with the requirements for residential permits but I thought most owners submitting their own plans didn't require a stamped set of plans.
My key takeaways from that "review" are:
1. Ensure that below grade fuel burning appliances are allowed in that AHJ and be sure there is adequate airflow (which the design should allow). Also be sure to have a CO monitor.
2. The design is not attractive. I understand this sentiment but efficiency was my motivating factor in this design, including economic efficiency, as the intention was to design a house for the "everyman" but I guess not everyone wants to live underground.
Good luck.
Thanks for the kind reply krackadile. We're looking for a more conventional design but I can see how your idea could well work for many.
Still seeking ideas for somewhat more conventional designs.
I understand. What type of a house are you planning? What general shape/type are you looking for?
I would stick to prescriptive build details, this avoids many of the charges plus building officials are familiar with it. Something like a truss package will come with an engineers stamp.
Stick to a simple foundation, stem walls with either slab on grade or crawlspace. Crawlspace is a good place for utilities, so might be worth the extra cost.
Build a simple roof, vented attic with lots of fluffy insulation.
Walls don't have to be anything special. 2x6+r5 rigid is pretty simple, can also build with 2x8 24" OC without any rigid. You do want to make sure you sort out your air barrier details, these are not hard or cost that much and make a big difference in efficiency.
Simple exterior finish such as board and batten with raw wood is easy to do and low maintaince.
Limit windows sizes and the number of operable windows.
Agree with all of this, but the crawl space in particular. In snow country you want your floor up off the ground.
A big question is one story or two. Each has pluses and minuses. A two story means half as much foundation and half as much roof, both of which are expensive and are areas to insulate. But working higher off the ground is more expensive, and stairs take up a lot of space in a small house.
"Amish saw mills lumber"
Make sure you understand if you are buying green wood or dry wood. A 2 inch thick board takes about 2 years to air dry and shrinks about 10% or so as it does often bowing and twisting as it does.
Without a costly grading stamp on the wood, you may not be allowed to use it for construction. Note any purchased plans will have specified stamp kiln lumber. Custom plans may require an engineer’s stamp with un stamped lumber.
Generally unfinished basement space does not count for taxes and cost are pretty low for construction.
For energy efficiency round building would have the smallest surface area and the lowest heat loss. Round is expensive to build but octagonal should not be and is almost as efficient.
Windows are the least efficient and most expensive parts of any building. Fewer and smaller can go a long way.
Avoid cathedral ceiling this allows you to cover the flat ceiling with cheap insulation.
Walta
Thanks for the helpful tips Walta! My thoughts on access to Amish mills related to considering a board and batten exterior finish over a rain screen which I had expected could be workable even with relatively green rough cut. Perhaps I'm wrong on that. I'd love to find a set of already drawn up plans that would fit the bill for this project.
The frame is the cheapest part of a house. Or can be, if you let it. I'm sure that production builders in your area have figured out the absolutely lowest-cost way of framing a house in your region*, because nobody cares about the framing when buying a house. So I would start with what is normally done in your area, and then think about how you insulate it and finish it and stay within your budget. This will also have the advantage that the plumber and electrician will know exactly what to do.
*(Costs vary quite a bit by region).
There is an interesting loophole in NYS, that if it's a primary residency, less than 1500s/f, and less than 20k, you do not need stamped plans. I discovered this 8 years ago when I built a house in Canastota,NY. I showed the inspector the provision, and he said ok! I still had to draw the plans (did myself) and do everything else, but I didn't have to spend the money on an architect. I expect acceptance of this is going to depend on the municipality. I also used a lot of rough cut in the build....inspector was ok with it. If you're in an area where there's a bunch of mills (Amish or otherwise), they'll probably be more accepting of it.....but you have to let it dry or it'll just be a mess down the road.
https://www.op.nysed.gov/professions/architecture/professional-practice/when-an-architect%27s-seal-and-signature-are-not-required
Good luck!
Brian,
That sort of presupposes there is n0 value in having a designer or architect involved, and that the skills they bring to the job are easily learned. Looking at some of the floor plans and construction details drawnly by posters here on GBA I’d say that’s not necessarily true.
Great point Malcolm. I'm actually looking for plans that already exist and have had the benefit of such involvement without me starting from scratch and paying the full cost of inventing a wheel that's already been invented. Perhaps such plans do not exist on the market in NYS.
sciguyh,
There are lots of good plan services. Hopefully someone with knowledge of your region can give you some examples. What to look out for is how much modification they may need to fit your site, and the specific code requirements of your area.
So for example, someone building around here in coastal BC would need plans that came with seismic resistance, and energy modelling specific to the region. They might also want to alter the size and location of windows to suit the surroundings, and the foundation might need to be modified to suit any slope.
I'm certainly not saying there isn't value in having an architect involved....but, if you can find a set of plans under 1500 s/f, they don't necessarily need to be from someone in NY. In my case, it was a simple structure, two bedrooms, bathroom, loft and open living area...1450 s/f. I built it myself. Ask a kid to draw a house, and this is what they would do!
Hi sciguyh!
Have you looked at any of the stuff that Den is doing (based in NY)?
https://denoutdoors.com/
excerpt:
"We are a team of construction experts, designers, and engineers creating Scandinavian-inspired cabin and house plans with a mission to make high design and thoughtful spaces more accessible and affordable in the United States. DEN is the most cost-effective way to start your design-forward construction project. Through our unique online platform, we offer plan customizations, vetted builder referrals, and the industry's only national showroom network featuring our most popular designs. We also provide advisory services for customers seeking design, sourcing, and planning support."
Thanks for the link begreener. I spent some time there and enjoyed the general "look" of the designs but found them lacking in any significant attempt to be energy efficient. Lot's of huge windows, cathedral ceilings, wood stoves needed for heat all scream not energy efficient to me. The fact that their literature does not mention energy efficiency would seem to be a bit of a tip off too.
sciguy,
I don't know if they would be appropriate but https://www.just-housing.org/what has written a few blogs for GBA which seem very sensible.
Michael Maines is probably well placed to recommend sources of plans or pre-fabs in the New England area. Hopefully he will chime in.
We found a good plan for our small house build at the Small House Catalog: https://www.smallhousecatalog.com/. Very reasonably priced. Another good place to look is Habitat for Humanity, they often post their small, energy efficient house plans online.
These are very nice!
While I’ve not used these plans, nor do I know the architect Robert personally (like I’m sure others on this site do) I have always been drawn to these plans: https://www.vermontsimplehouse.com/
By Robert Swinburne : https://www.bluetimecollaborative.com/
If I were going prefab, I’d go Croft Haus from Rockland Maine or New Frameworks in Vermont. Not necessarily the lowest budget options, but major wins on aesthetics, and operational and embodied carbon.
Ian,
Good call! I don't know why I didn't think of Robert's plans.
The way I see it the efficiency stuff most of us care about in not main stream stuff most plans will not apply. For most people advertising energy efficiency is a turn off and bad business.
To my way of thinking a wood stove could be the most efficient heat source if you are cutting your own wood from your lot. The fuel is free except for your time and work and carbon neutral. Yes, making one work in a tight house is a challenge.
Some sites simply demand large windows given the view they present.
I may dislike cathedral ceiling more than most but you can’t denied the drama they can add to a space and it is possible to make them efficient with a well thought out plan and enough money.
Picking a random set plans that happens to fit your size requirement and energy goals seem foolish to me. Living in the space would make me crazy. Why is this so far from that this room is too small or big.
You are talking about a custom home and custom is never cheap. If you are going to spend the money and live thru the stress of a custom build, I say spend the 6-12% more and make the home be your style and purpose built to fit your lifestyle.
Note a good set of plans may not look like it but is hundreds of hours hard work and a bad set of plans will waste hundreds of hours of time as the workmen do their best to make them work. I say a set of plans is worth what one pays for them and copying someone’s work without permission unethical at best.
Walta
Walta, thanks for the many good points. I've got plenty to ponder at this point with no distinctly obvious path to follow.
Hugh
The first thing I would take into account is your total budget. Site costs (driveway, well, septic, electrical service, etc) for a new build are a significant chunk and won't vary that much if you're building a 1,000 square foot house or 5,000 square foot house. +1 for hiring a design professional. Find an architect/designer who works within the PGH framework and front load discussion of your budget. Secondly: decide if this is a "forever" home where you hope to age in place. If so think hard about putting the primary bedroom/bath on the first floor and optimizing for accessibility. That said @ 1,000 square feet you're looking at a 1-2 BR/1.5BA footprint and a simple gable or shed roofed building with truss roof, 2 x6 walls with exterior rigid on a frost-protected slab or crawlspace (if budget allows) will get you most of the way there. Build it so garage/breezeway/etc can be added when/if budget allows.
mdb_az,
To pick up on your last point: When I design small houses I try and talk the clients into spending some time thinking though possible additions and making provision for them.
I moved to Central NY a year and a half ago and I draft stamped blueprints. I haven't run across any websites that have them ready to go to purchase, but I haven't really looked. I can tell you for my own house I went with a big barndominium which I already regret and I haven't even moved in yet. If I could do it over I would go with a true two story, either 2x8 framing or a double stud wall, on either a pier and beam or helical piles, filled with lots of blown in. We did slab on grade which is *fine*, but required expensive foam board insulation and makes future repairs or changes difficult. Basements are expensive and depending where you are, can be difficult due to ground water (my land has its water table only about 3ft below the surface.
Not sure if advertising is allowed on GBA but if you want some custom blueprints I do have availability right now
I also built a smallish house in upstate NY a few years ago. A couple of suggestions...
1. Make a trip to see the building code enforcement office. Mine didn't require stamped prints for buildings under a certain size. Not sure if that's typical. They also had good design suggestions and could tell you what they will inspect. Very helpful if you decide to be your own GC.
2. You will most likely need a blower door test, so have an air sealing plan and a ventilation plan. My biggest mistake was to wait until after the walls were closed to think about mechanical ventilation.
3. A full basement is one of the cheapest ways to get conditioned space and will typically be taxed at a lower rate per sq ft in NY. You also have access to plumbing and electrical for future modifications. If you haven't built before, you will probably appreciate the access.
4. I designed my own house, but also had a fair amount of build experience going into it and access to others who had built their own houses and additions. If I didn't have these resources, I probably would have been better off buying professional plans (stamped or not).
5. If I built again, I would use foam on the outside and mineral wool between the studs. Double wall without exterior foam can cause condensation issues on the sheathing exterior.