Hello all! 

So I took the plunge and decided to waterproof my basement from the interior before I finish it into a basement apartment. Located in Guelph, Ontario. It already had interior clay weeping tiles (1958 build, I do believe) running to the city storm, which seems odd for the time? Anyhow, they were broken in a few spots, but overall not really that bad. Some small leaks in the corners and had a company fill all the cracks with polyurethane filler. I decided to just re-do the weepers instead of spot treating it in case future issues arose. So I disconnected from city storm and added a sump pit (I’m in a semi detached and mine connected to their interior weepers, which ran to city from their side. Figured best to not be involved with theirs in case that side ever backed up). I then installed the Delta MS membrane, concrete, and after lugging bucket and bucket of broken concrete up the stairs and then bucket after bucket of concrete sand down the stairs for around the weepers, here we are.

Now I’m wondering about the partition wall between me and my neighbour. As you can see in the picture, the membrane doesn’t run all the way to the top of the foundation wall, leaving that bit exposed to condensation potential. I wish I had brought it all the way up. The wall on the left is exterior. Not included in the picture is the right side, which is also connected to an exterior wall. For the rest of the basement, I am doing the classic 2″ EPS all the way up to and including rim joist cavities with studwall and then rockwool in between studs with drywall over that. But for the party wall, I’m wondering what to do, since the membrane stops short and there is no barrier keeping moisture from condensing on the concrete for the top few inches. I understand the potential decreases the further in the party wall you go, but the top part has me concerned. I could either: 
1: continue the same plan as the rest of the basement 
2: just do rockwool and save a few bucks without rigid insulation and rely on the drywall as the vapour barrier. 
3. Buy a new roll of dimple and cut small sections to put it all the way up to the top of foundation.

A small detail, but hey, that’s why we all come here! 

As a side note, you can see the spray foam on the left wall between the sill plate and top of foundation. After consulting this website and learning that I need a capillary break between the foundation and sill, I decided to remove the crumbling mortar that was between there originally, added high density plastic shims used for preformed concrete tip up work under where each joist sits on the sill, and foamed the remaining gap.
Let me tell you, getting that mortar out was a challenge!