Is my wall design OK?
In the article, “Calculating the minimum thickness of rigid foam sheathing”, one paragraph states,
“What if I live in one of the warmer climate zones?
If you are building a house in one of the warmer climate zones — zone 1, 2, 3, or 4 (except for 4 Marine) — you don’t have to worry about the thickness of your foam. Any foam thickness will work, because your sheathing will never get cold enough for “condensation” (moisture accumulation) to be a problem.”
Would that “any foam thickness” also include no foam at all?
I am at the point of needing to install my windows and then put on the vinyl siding, and I’m not sure if I can get by without using any foam over the sheathing (don’t want to foam it if I don’t really need to).
I am in zone 3 (mid-western Arkansas) and my walls currently are 2×6 with 1/2″ Zip wall panels which are OSB coated with whatever that water repellent coating is that Huber puts on the panels; the panel seams are taped with the Zip tape.
I didn’t plan to use a housewrap because Huber says that the Zip panels after being taped make a sufficient air barrier. They also said that a layer of building felt over the sheathing was not necessary because of the coating on the panels.
Do the above two statements seem logical?
I will be using Roxul 5.5″ bats between the studs and 5/8″ drywall on the inside with latex paint.
For my climate, can I get by with no foam without risking condensation on the inside of the sheathing ?
(The Roxul supposed to hold and release moisture better than fiberglass, if that makes a difference.)
(The house will be heated with a wood stove, if that makes any difference either. I know wood stoves generally make for dryer inside air than central heat.)
GBA Detail Library
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