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Mineral wool fasteners

mountaincabin | Posted in General Questions on

Hi all,

I’m getting into the details of my re-siding + exterior mineral wool install this summer and am investigating options for attaching 2″ mineral wool over my home. 

I see a lot of people use 2 1/2″ cap nails in my case while others use a host of other attachments including:
-Trufast MPB-3000 3″ metal insulation plate + screw

Anyone use these, I’m interested in how these options perform:
-Rodenhouse Griplok hurricane fastener + screw (anyone use this?) https://www.rodenhouse-inc.com/grip-lok-hurricane-washer
-Rodenhouse Thermal grip impaling fastener (anyone use this?) https://www.rodenhouse-inc.com/thermal-grip-impaling-fastener

Details of my wall:
1. wall sheathing
2. minto 1000
3. 2″ mineral wool
4. 1×4 furring strip
5. hardie panel + hardie batten

Thanks,

Zach

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    Malcolm Taylor | | #1

    Zach,

    If the mineral wool is going to be located behind 1" x 4"s, you are really just tacking it in place before it is secured by the furring. I'm not sure it makes any difference which fastener you use.

  2. Heath Horn | | #2

    Zach,

    I agree with Malcolm above that the type of fastener used for securing the mineral wool is not overly critical since you are strapping over the mineral wool. Depending on the mineral wool product you're using and it's density, you may want to explore the various fasteners for that strapping however. Some of the installers we work with take issue with the bit of compression that happens with the mineral wool with a full threaded fastener, so a product like the link below helps to limit over-compression with a break in the thread and a reverse thread below the head.

    https://www.heco-schrauben.com/screws-accessories/screws/heco-topix-therm/

    Disclaimer that I have not used these due to most of our work being coastal and required stainless fasteners, however in mockups found that they do prevent what they are designed for.

    Generally we have found though that the Comfortboard 110's density is such that over-compression is not a substantial issue.

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