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Community and Q&A

Nora Lighting

Josh24 | Posted in General Questions on

Anyone have experience with Nora Lighting?  I’m looking at this can light for our new house:

I like it because of the price and lumen rating.  But is the quality good enough?  

We have a 1000 sq ft living room with vaulted ceiling, so would like to go with fewer brighter lights.  The 6″ ones most places stock I’d need over 50 of them to get enough light.

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  1. user-2310254 | | #1


    The specs are impressive, and it looks like the manufacture offers goof rings, which can come in handy if the drywallers make mistakes cutting the openings.

    I'm wondering how you came up with the 50 units for 1,000 square feet? Have you worked through a lighting planner such as this?

  2. walta100 | | #2

    I try not to buy any fixture that produces less than 100 Lm /watts and that on fails miserably at 71. If it was to be the center piece of the room I would consider making an exception but this light should fade into background. I have not been shopping for 3 years and my goal was a challenge then. I would guess it would be easier today.

    To my eye that fixture seems to be designed for used retrofit applications. It looks to be fussy and labor intensive for new construction and the separate box and being mounted with 2 spring clips makes it hard to air seal.

    Is the goal to be flush with the ceiling?


  3. charlie_sullivan | | #3

    It's got a good CRI rating and decent efficiency. It's a higher color temperature than some people would prefer in a living room--I'd suggest trying some different color-temperature bulbs in table lamps to be sure you know what you want.

    Note that recessed lights don't illuminate the ceiling itself at all. I find that the room seems cheerier with a light ceiling, so I prefer flush mount lights like even though they aren't fashionable. That one's a little better efficiency as well at 82 lm/W.

    Is your vaulted ceiling directly under the roof? Be sure you have a good plan to achieve air tightness, as recessed lights in vaulted ceilings have caused many roofs to rot.

  4. Jon_Lawrence | | #4

    I used a combination of Halo (6" and 4") and and Lotus (3" and 2#), both can-less. I like that they give me the flexibility to get into the ceiling without cutting a hole if ever need to pull additional wires. The caveat is that you need to make sure your drywaller marks the location of the tails either on the floor or on the ceiling, or even better both. They do sell rough-in plates if you want to go that route. I also bought a GoPro camera and took 360 degree photos of each room before drywall so I know where all the wires and pipes are which has been extremely useful. I like that that the Halo allows you to adjust the Kelvin setting but I prefer the look of the Lotus. The springs on both of these are very strong so they do make a good seal and you can get them in gimbal version if being used on a vaulted ceiling or trying to direct the beam onto a wall. The Nora light in the link is not as regressed as the the Halo or Lotus, so these will give you less glare than the Nora. I have a vaulted ceiling with a roof above and Charlie's point about air leakage was a concern of mine. I decided not to place any electrical in the rafters and instead hung ceiling pendants from the ridge beam. We packed it out with 2x's to provide room for the wiring and j-boxes.

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