We are retrofitting our cabin. I live in the very south west corner of NC(4A), at about 2000′ elevation. We are adding 1″ rigid foam, house wrap, furring strips, (stained) pine shiplap cladding.

The original building is rough 2 x 4 studs, and orig cladding was rough milled 1 x 12 board and batten. All batten has been removed, board rot repaired/replaced, and foam/wrb/furring is on this weeks work docket. We are doing outie windows. (https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/installing-windows-in-a-foam-sheathed-wall#comment-37278)From this comment, I am planning to flash the RO, then picture frame to back of cladding. I will be using SureSill sills and HeadFlashing, all water will be directed to WRB plane.

Q 1: My windows are (surprise surprise) backordered and will arrive a few weeks + after this should be finished. I have ordered double hung with nailing flanges, my RO are all to spec, etc. What stage of prep should I stop at? I had hoped I could take advantage of the work crew I have here for the next few weeks and leave myself “just” installing the windows and trimming them out, but I see on the SureSill site that its recommended you install at time of window installation. 

The two doors in this cabin are sliding glass doors. We do not even have the replacements delivery dates yet, so am mostly in the planning stage for what work I’ll face at that future point. I believe that I understand from these two threads (https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/installing-a-door-with-exterior-rigid-insulation and https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/outie-doors) that I should be ok to build out a structural buck of 2x to get to the back of my cladding. The cabin is on a cinderblock foundation, the back of my cladding is only <1.75″ beyond the original wall.

Q2: Should I plan to “picture frame” with 2x as well or just as I plan to around the windows with the furring strips?

One door is an existing slider with ruined/rotted everything, but under cover of the porch, the other is replacing a window hole on the opposite/back wall and is being built from scratch but currently has no roof of its own aside from the upper story overhang of a few inches. May add a small roof or generous upper trim feature pending discussion and research.

Q3: Since the new door is being built out from studs, what is the ideal method to build an outie sliding door? 

Thank you so much for your time and this astonishing resource.

Lex