Question about adding an outlet in front of foam board insulation
tymoto21
| Posted in Building Code Questions on
I have a Brick home.
My wall consists of brick then 1×4 frame laying the flat way with 1″ foam board in between. Then the entire wall covered in 1″ foam board then 1/2″ osb then 3/8″ drywall.
I want to add an outlet below a light switch that is already installed.
There is not access in the attic and from what I can tell from the basement is the wall is 1.5″ on top of the basement wall so I can’t drill up through the floor.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
And I do not want to install 2×4 frame just to add an outlet
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Replies
Tyler,
First of all, if you aren't familiar with electrical work, you should hire an electrician.
Your two options are to use a shallow receptacle box -- for example, the one shown here:
http://www.legrand.us/passandseymour/wall-boxes/old-work-boxes/p108w.aspx
... or to use surface-mounted wiring (Wiremold) -- for example, as shown here:
https://www.homeimprovementweb.com/information/how-to/surface-wiring.htm
But again, if these two ideas are both new to you, I urge you to hire an electrician.
my brother is an electrician, and i am an electrical engineer.
i just wanted to check what the best way was while working with what i have.
I do not want to put wire on top of the drywall.
I know i will need to use a shallow box for the junction where i connect from the original wire and were the new outlet will go.
It is just a very shallow space.
So is it fine to be infront of the 1x4 but behind the full 1" foam board.
or infront of the 1" foam board but behind the osb plywood.
or is it totally against code / a fire hazard to have the wire behind the wall like that.
Tyler,
I'm sorry Tyler but something doesn't add up. Electrical codes, which you and your brother would have to be familiar with, specify the distance from a wire to the surface of wall framing.
My brother is not here right now
It seemed like a quick simple question he wouldn't be required for.
There is block
1x4 frame with foam board in between the 1x4's
On top of that is 1" foamboard
On top of that is 1/2" osb plywood
On top of that is 3/8" drywall
There is no traditional frame
From an existing switch I want to run a line down 3 feet and over 2 feet where I will install a new outlet
Can I run the wire behind the 1" foam board but infront of the 1x4 frame
The wire would be 1.875" behind the top of the drywall
I can't go up through the floor and I can't run it down through the attic without tearing up some of the attic floor
National Electrical Code 2014
Article 300 Wiring Methods
I. General Requirements
300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage.
(F) Cables and Raceways Installed in Shallow Grooves. Cable- or raceway-type wiring methods installed in a groove, to be covered by wallboard, siding, paneling, carpeting, or similar finish, shall be protected by 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent or by not less than 32-mm (11/4-in.) free space for the full length of the groove in which the cable or raceway is installed.
Exception No. 1: Steel plates, sleeves, or the equivalent shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.
So you have a couple options.
Free Space
Run the groove deep enough, so that there's 1 1/4" of free space in front of the cable.
Steel Protection
Protect the cable using a 1/16" steel plate, or sleeve. Or install the cable in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.
Thank you
I can do that
In order to run a receptacle off the circuit that is feeding the light switch, you would need to confirm that there is indeed a neutral conductor available at the light switch to connect to. In the past, it was not uncommon to run a two wire "switch leg" to a switch, in which the (typically) white wire was actually the feeder "hot" wire, and the black was the switch return to the light fixture junction box, at which there would be a hot and a neutral feeder from another source. Newer codes require the neutral to be brought to the light switch, but compliance with that requirement is still most likely spotty at best. Before attempting an extension of the circuit from the light switch, best confirm that there is indeed a neutral available to use. And while you are at it, you may want to confirm a ground as well.
James,
We don't have that requirement up here in Canada. We just have to mark the white wire as hot. What do you connect the neutral to at the switch?
Edit: Ah I see:
"Neutrals
When wiring lighting circuits supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit, the 2011 NEC now requires you to provide a neutral conductor at nearly every switch point [404.2(C)]. The purpose for this is to complete a circuit path for electronic lighting control devices, such as occupancy sensors. For many such devices, you must provide standby voltage and current at the switch."