Questions on re-siding entire house
One story 1977 Texas ranch style tract house, 3 sides brick veneer, southern facing rear 4 th side original delaminated T111.
T111 – remove deteriorated southern facing T111, remove existing 3.5″ FG batts, spray foam to fill 3.5″ void (interior sheet rock remains). New sheets of OSB overlaid with a rain screen. Primed PT furring strips (ripped from 1/2″ PT plywood) placed over stud locations and tacked on top of rain screen. Then 4X8 sheets of fiber cement panels nail gunned through furring strips & OSB into original studs.
T111 replacement questions: What is a good material for the rain screen? Is 1/2″ furring thick enough? Is priming the furring overkill? With 24″ eave overhangs, should the spray foam be open or closed cell?
Brick veneer – East facing long wall (60′) has been completely re- patched with water proof, elastomeric patcher made for brick surfaces, primed with Benjamin Moore latex Fresh Start primer and then given 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Softgloss exterior water proof paint. It looks good. (picture attached).
Benjamin Moore, however, discontinued the brick patcher product and I’m now left in the lurch for the front street face wall & the west side wall, with no patcher available. The original brick used was not high quality (to put it mildly) and living roughly 1 mile from the gulf, the original brick surface has serious deterioration problems (pictures attached).
Here’s where the real problems start:
As is the norm, the brick veneer stands 1″ proud of the wood studs via mortar clips. Because we had a hurricane hit 30 years ago we are under the “Texas Windstorm Insurance Agency” (TWIA) rules & regulations, copies of the Miami-Dade Regulations.
With patcher no longer available, I purchased a Bosch tuck point grinder and committed myself to tuck point the remaining 2 brick walls, which I am just about to start. Repairs will be made with mortar. Tuck pointing the mortar cracks will be time consuming but strait forward. That process should restore structural integrity to the wall if all that I have read is accurate.
It is the eroded & pitted surfaces that I am concerned about from an appearance standpoint, however. If I can’t get mortar to adhere reliably where pitting and erosion have occurred then I am wasting my time, money, & effort with priming & painting it only to be worked loose by temperature expansion and possible future settling because we have a sandy soil composition here.
This gets me to thinking about applying the same fiber cement panels over the brick veneer to unify the exterior appearance.
Brick veneer questions – Has anyone used fiber cement panels over brick? What would best practices to do so? Given that both brick & fiber cement are porous, should a rain screen be applied over the brick veneer to prevent moisture penetration through the brick even though it has been occurring in the past?
OR is it better to just stucco over the brick and be done with it?
Would sure like any help I can get on this one.
GBA Detail Library
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part