Exterior Renovation of Brick Ranch
I’m renovating the exterior of a 1950s brick ranch in climate zone 5/6 (cold). The plan so far is as follows:
1. Remove brick, leaving a few courses above the soil level.
2. Install air barrier over existing gypsum sheathing and felt.
3. Replace windows.
4. Install two layers of 1.5″ rockwool boards, and wood strips screwed into interior framing for rain screen.
5. Bug screen top and bottom.
6. Hardie board siding and trim.
Here are some questions:
A. What air barrier is recommended? Tyvec and tape, something else?
B. I’m considering thermal buck for the window install. Any opinions?
C. The vented soffit is dated but not in bad shape. I may need to trim it down slightly to keep it. Are there better options that I should be considering?
D. How do I transition smoothly from hardie board to soffit?
E. Are there air sealing techniques that can be employed at the top of the wall now since it is exposed before the insulation and siding go up?
Any advice or reference to helpful articles would be greatly appreciated.
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Replies
I'll give you a bump (and add a few comments/suggestions).
A. If it were my house, I'd use Tyvec since it is readily available and won't have any compatibility issues with the gypsum sheathing. (A liquid applied air barrier would probably be fine as well since this is done in commercial construction all the time.) I would opt for Tyvec Commercial D more for peace of mind than anything else.
B. From what I've read, builders who are focusing on maximizing efficiency like Thermal Bucks. But if you're watching your budget, plywood or dimensional lumber will be cheaper.
C./D. No idea.
E. Canned spray foam and caulk seem to be the most cost effective options. You may want to go here (https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/how-to-do-everything) and review the air sealing articles.
Thanks Steve - bump and advice much appreciated!
Thermal bucks are a good idea for reducing thermal bridging around windows. Go for it!
Also guys...Tyvek and tape is a great option for the air barrier, but make sure it’s well-sealed. If your soffit is still in good shape, trimming it down can work, but you might also consider updating it to a more modern, low-maintenance material.
For a smooth transition from Hardie board to soffit, use trim pieces that match the style of your siding. Now's a great time to use foam or caulk to seal any gaps at the top of the wall before insulation and siding.
Your renovation plan looks great, but having a professional on board can make a huge difference. Someone reliable and experienced, like https://topgradeenterprises.com/, can really help. They can spot potential issues early on.
Consider removing the brick is likely to lower the value of your home.
An option might be to blow cellulose into the wall from the inside patch the hundred holes and repaint the walls and use blower door directed air sealing to tighten up the house.
Note is seems unlikely the exterior sheeting is gypsum in the 1950. Much more likely to be a wood fiber insulation board.
Replacement windows do not make sense from an econmic or green point of view unless someone has allowed the old windows to rot to the point that they are unrepairable.
Walta