Reverse board and batten
Through feedback on this site, I have decided to switch to vertical siding. 6A, coastal maine, single pitched roof with zip sheathing, no exterior insulation, and a 2 foot overhang.
I have a bunch of rough sawn spruce 1×8 that has been stickered on the site for 2 years. I want to keep it rough sawn but hit the exterior with Lifetime wood stain that promotes even greying.
So, I will strap it diagonally with standard 1×3 strapping and then lay my rough sawn battens. I am planning on 5/16″ gaps with my boards and very much want to shoot it with a 15 gauge nailer using stainless steel fasteners. My question is how to nail it to allow for movement and secure it water tight. What nail length and pattern on the boards and battens would you suggest?
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Movement? Insure proper lapping, flashing, and fasteners... which you aren't! The nails you intend to use have tiny heads which will never hold pine boards as they move around. Use 8d HDG ring shank siding nails. Stainless will work too, but aren't necessary (yes, you need to invest in a different gun or hand nail).
Sealing the back of the boards and all end cuts will help with stability and lifespan.
I mentioned board on board in your other thread, that'd require less milling than reverse b&b.
Thanks. Board on Board is an interesting idea. I believe i have enough material for that, and I wouldn't have to mill at all, as you suggest. Would you recommend 1 inch laps? So, the profile would alternate between a 6 inch board and an eight inch board across the face of the wall .
Regarding back sealing, I was always taught to seal all 6 sides or none at all to avoid cupping. Having said that, I would consider sealing some cut ends (like at the very bottom where my cobra vent will vent the rainscreen) that might be prone to rot over time.
A siding nailer would be useful for the base layer, and I could hand nail the outer most layer with stainless ringshanks every 2 feet to get a good seal between boards