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Sealant for framing?

user-7146140 | Posted in General Questions on
I would like to get some healthy recommendations for sealant that should be used between the framing in a new house to stop air coming in, some sort of spray would be best i.e. it should not take days to apply.
Hussain Rizvi

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  1. Expert Member
    Zephyr7 | | #1

    Acoustical sealant is commonly used, but it’s messy and smelly to work with.

    Will you be able to apply the sealant as the walls are going together, or are you trying to seal things after framing is complete but before drywall and other details start going in?


  2. user-7146140 | | #2

    Hi Bill,

    my aim is to limit the amount of air gaps in the build of the house, so I would assume that this would need to be done at framing and before drywall is up

  3. GBA Editor
    Peter Yost | | #3

    Hi Hussain -

    Prosoco has a pretty strong reputation for its commitment to lower emissions sealants. Take this one, for example:


  4. user-7146140 | | #4

    Thanks Peter, problem is that doing this to every part of the frame will be very time consuming is there a tool/system which can spray/apply this product (or another product) more quickly

    1. Expert Member
      Malcolm Taylor | | #5

      User ...140,

      It's probably useful to think about the problem in the context of whatever air-sealing strategy you are using. For instance, if the taped sheathing is the primary air-barrier, there aren't many situations where spraying the whole framing makes sense. off-hand, I can't think of any air-sealing strategy for new construction that would rely on widespread spraying - part from some of the new proprietary systems you can't do yourself.

      1. user-7146140 | | #6

        So I saw this link:
        seems like it would do the job, however, I am not sure what toxic chemicals its made of, hence wanted to reach out to you all for any advice.

        1. user-7146140 | | #7

          Also, I would be hiring in someone to do all this.

        2. Expert Member
          Malcolm Taylor | | #8

          Again I'd urge you to think through what you are trying to achieve. If the sheathing is the primary air-sealing layer (and it doesn't have to be), there isn't necessarily any reason to seal each stud bay as your link shows.

          1. user-7146140 | | #13

            thanks again for responding, please see comment I sent to Trevor below

  5. Alan Lehman | | #9
  6. Alex P | | #10

    Here's another option, AirStop Elastomeric Air Sealant

  7. Trevor Chadwick | | #11

    I can see why you would use somthign like airstop, or the pink stuff for a retrofit, but doesn't make any sense to me for new construction, where you cans easily air seal the outside of the sheathing

    1. user-7146140 | | #12

      So I am going by the video below:

      If you go to 21:45min. so as I understand it the barrier on the outside is only a moisture barrier not a vapor barrier, I could be wrong.

      1. Expert Member
        Malcolm Taylor | | #14


        You are confusing three different things.

        - The air barrier, which can be located anywhere, is used to stop air moving through the wall. That's what your question (and the discussion) has been about.

        - A vapour barrier, or retarder, stops water vapour from moving through the wall. It needs to be located close to the interior surface of your walls. The sealing you are asking about has no effect on it.

        - The moisture barrier (most commonly called a WRB) is what stops exterior moisture from getting at your sheathing.

        Moving any one of these doesn't change what they are, but moving them may make them ineffective. If you are going to decide on a wall assembly , and on how to seal it, it's vital you understand what these three things are and how they function.

        1. user-7146140 | | #15

          Thanks for explaining this, it might be easier to explain the wall structure we are thinking:
          1. Vinyl siding
          2. 2" foam board -
          3. zip system - (AIR BARRIER)
          4. board probably OSB
          5. 2x4 1 inch gap then another 2x4 - something to close any gaps e.g. or one of the other product recommended (AIR BARRIER)
          5. 9" wall full of GUTEX -
          6. membrane - BARRIER)
          7. drywall

          1. Patrick OSullivan | | #16

            Could you explain how you got to that assembly?

            There are some curious bits.

            For example: (3) is Zip System. (4) is “board probably OSB”. These are redundant. You don’t need another layer of OSB if you are using Zip.

            Another: You outline a double 2x4 wall with a 1” air gap and 9” of insulation. However a 2x4 isn’t actually 4”. It’s 3.5”, so you have 8” total.

            There are other things, but the point is... how are you choosing these components? Are you working with an architect or engineer suggesting these things or what?

  8. user-7146140 | | #17

    this is following the passive house design. point (4) was a possibility but not set on it, if we need to make the gap between the 2x4 bigger that is not an issue as long as we get to 9" of insulation. correct, we have both and architect and an energy consultant building this.

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