Structural support for outie door

When installing a door “outie style” (ie, proud of existing wall surface) in order to accommodate future CEI, how does one provide structural support to door sill ? Plan is to install doors and windows first, then apply CEI. Obviously a cantilevered door sill is not structurally sound but, what is the alternative ? Moving wall inward of current plane is not an option. Thank you
GBA Detail Library
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part


Replies
AM,
Will the door be sitting directly on a slab or stem-wall, or is there a wood floor system in-between?
Thank you, Malcolm. The space where this door will go is unfinished as of now (just uninsulated slab on grade from the 1950s). The goal is to eventually vapor proof the top surface of slab with membrane or liquid-applied product. Then lay 2 inches of rigid foam, then 1/2 underlayment, then click lock tiles. The door will be installed not only proud of existing wall sheathing (to accomodate for future CEI) but also at least 2 inches above slab to accommodate for raised floor in future (door frame is way shorter than distance from slab to top plate)
AM,
I would use concrete screws to fasten a pt 2"x12" door sill to the slab, with 1/2" plywood on top, so that it cantilevers out to the distance you want the wall to extend to cover the CI.
Thank you, Malcolm--very helpful !
Note that if using concrete screws like tapcons, I would use the larger diameter ones here. I find that even stepping up to 5/16" tapcons makes things far, far more durable and less likely for the fasteners to pull out. 3/8" are really good about this, but I don't think you can get those in anything but a hex head, so not as good for something like you're considering here.
Bill
Simpson Titen HD and Hilti KH-EZ C Countersunk screw anchors come in 3/8." they also have drop in anchors where you could choose your own bolt. some kind of MST strap tie from the to connect the back of the plate to the inside face of the stemwall would be a good secondary attachment.
the 1/2" plywood is used because the sill is loaded parallel to the grain. you can drill big clearance holes so that the top of the bolt doesn't protrude above the top of plywood.