Super quiet bedrooms
caliberger
| Posted in General Questions on
I’m building with 6″ thick interior walls
What wall assembly will give me the most soundproof rooms?
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Replies
caliberger,
These tables give you a good idea as to how various wall assemblies will perform.
https://free.bcpublications.ca/civix/document/id/public/bcbc2018/bcbc_2018dbp9rt
All sound attenuation is very dependant on the details - sealing penetrations and the perimeter to avoid bypasses.
Thank you Malcolm
Most sound transmission is through air, so the first step is making the rooms as nearly airtight as possible.
That probably means each room has its own HVAC registers and returns, with sound attenuation. I wouldn't bother with insulating the walls until that's done.
Makes sense but hydronic radiant so no penetrations for HVAC
even with hydronic heat, you will still want some air-to-air exchange.
(when you can't open a window.)
otherwise the IAQ won't be very good.
The tricky part is usually the doors, because normal interior doors don't have any perimeter gaskets at all, and they tend to be hollow.
If you want just a little soundproofing, the mineral wool "Safe'n'Sound" batts can be added to walls that seperate spaces (like between two bedrooms). Use 5/8" drywall too. A step up is a double layer of 5/8" drywall. This will help.
If you really want to do a good job, you have to go with a staggered stud wall, or, even better, hang the drywall on resilient channel. This complicates the build though. If you go all out, a double layer of 5/8" drywall with green glue in between on resilient channel is one of the best performing assemblies BUT you still have weak spots at the doors.
Solid doors are a big step up, but you need gasketing around the perimeter to avoid sound leaks. I suppose you could install an exterior door, but you're trading aesthetics this way, especially with the sill.
Bill
Helpful
Had not even heard of res channel but makes sense
Thx
i guess i cant post any link but google automatic door bottom or seal
lots of options designed for interior noise reduction and are not noticeable
If the budget is unlimited then go for the triple pane windows.
Don’t forget to apply the always gooey acoustical sealant in every gap kind of like caulking that never hardened.
Hydronics are great for heat. In your climate no cooling is required?
Upgrading to thicker drywall.
Walta
Triple pane doesn't make a huge different in sound reduction. If you want windows that will really cut down on sound from outdoors, you want laminated glass used in the windows, ideally in different thicknesses for the inner and outer panes.
Good to mention acoustical sealant. Note that using "putty pads" on the back of electrical boxes on the shared wall also helps, but it's worth trying to minimize any boxes installed on the shared wall.
Bill
When I built I had enough knowledge to be concerned about and address this issue, but had not researched the issue heavily. What I implemented actuall works quite well:
1. Design house to minimize shared bedroom walls, or shared wall with areas from which you are trying to avoid noise. For example for bedrooms next to each other put closets on the shared wall, etc. Limit doors that open into the middle of the bedroom - set the door back so it is around a corner, etc.
2. For areas where you can't avoid a shared wall, soundproof outlet and switch boxes with putty pads in all shared walls
3. Insulate the shared interior walls. Mine have dense pack cellulose.
4. After gyp is installed, seal the gap between the outlet & switch boxes and the gyp with acoustical sealant on all shared walls.
5. Solid core door (no weatherstripping in my case) with limited undercut to reduce gaps
6. Transfer duct in ceiling for return air is made of flex and configured to limit noise transfer.
7. Supply air duct system designed to reduce sound transfer - for example ducts to a bedroom are home run from plenum rather than branch off of a main shared with a space from which you want to isolate noise.
8. Sound absorbing finishes such as carpet in one of the rooms (such as bedrooms)
If I have to design with shared bedroom walls, I try to put the two closets for the bedrooms side by side on that shared wall. This way the depth of the closet is additional seperation between the bedrooms without "wasting" any space, you have a second wall (even with the doors, it's still better than nothing), and if the closet is packed full of clothes, you now have a bunch of sound deadening material "installed" for free between the rooms too. This is an easy way to help cut down on sound transmission between bedrooms if you have some flexibility in the placement of the closets.
Bill
I have a powder room we added next to the master br, I stagger studded the intermediate wall and it works well. Had to fix the plumbing supports so they were on the bath side of the wall.
solid core doors
Insulation in the wall.
I tried the compliant foam tape on the wall between the BR and LR. Dunno if it makes a difference
I feel like skim coat plaster is a little denser than sheetrock, but I cannot swear it makes a difference, if it is reasonable in your area it might be a thing to try, I prefer the finish anyway