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windows and doors for workshop

Trevor_Lambert | Posted in General Questions on

I’m having the usual grief in finding windows and doors, the biggest being finding a place that will even give a quote. I don’t understand why they even have an rfq form if they just ignore them. The only one I’ve managed to get a quote for is North Star, and the specs are underwhelming. U-values of 0.27 for dual and 0.24 for triple glazed, and I was told that’s centre of glass, not whole assembly.

Two questions. 

1. Given that this is a garage/workshop, should I even bother with higher performance windows? I have only 5 (60×36) windows and two doors in an 1800 sqft building, but I do plan to fully condition it and perhaps one day it will be converted to an ADU. Part of me wants to just order cheap windows and doors now, and maybe upgrade them a few years down the road. 

2. Any recommendations for windows and doors either near London, Ontario, or maybe a place further away that’s easy to deal with (ordering and delivering)?

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Replies

  1. GBA Editor
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #1

    Trevor,

    That's a tricky one. Based on nothing but my own experience I wouldn't bet on the windows ever getting swapped out if you put in the lower priced ones. I trimmed out the interior of our house in hemlock I got a deal on so we could move in quickly. Thirty years later I'm still having a terrible time getting motivated to re-do something that isn't great but does the job.

  2. Chris_in_NC | | #2

    Inline and Fibertec are both in Ontario. Silex and Duxton are in Winnipeg. I think those are all fiberglass extrusion.
    I haven't purchased through any of those (yet), but Inline and Fibertec were both really good to deal with during the quote process for a stalled project a few years ago. May have got a Duxton quote, I can't remember.

    I'm usually of the "do it once" mindset, and there are budget options for performance. You likely don't need the cost or performance of something like a Euro tilt/turn, but a good fiberglass unit is a very nice compromise.

  3. Expert Member
    PETER Engle | | #3

    If you are fully conditioning the space, then the calculus is the same as for your house. Heat loss difference will be the same whether it is a workshop or a house. They don't necessarily have to be fancy windows, but they should be efficient. Also, it is a lot of work to change out windows later. Integrating them with the rainscreen, sealing/foaming around the perimeter, interior trim, etc. Do it right once.

  4. gusfhb | | #4

    I would agree that you will probably never change the windows out if you convert to an ADU, but disagree on heat loss.
    There is no reason to keep a workshop at house comfortable temperatures 24/7. Allowing it to drift down at night or when you are not actually working can save a significant amount of energy.
    One need only keep it warm enough to discourage condensation and keep it within range so it will be comfortable when you are working there.
    My my modestly/haphazardly insulated garage needs little heat input to keep it above 40 degrees F even at 0 outside temps.
    My drafty workplace has setbacks that ensure the furnace never runs at night and it is back at 65 by the time I roll in

    Andersen has NFRC rated triple panes available with U values under .2, so if you stick with standard sizes[it is a shop after all] that should work

    If the windows don't meet code for bedrooms, and the CEO is paying attention, some might have to be replaced if it becomes a ADU in the future anyway.

  5. jberks | | #5

    I've always wanted to do site built windows..essentially making the frame from a hardwood and placing a purchased IGU within in it.

    Mostly because I hate being at the whim of window manufacturers prices and time. But I recognize this is perceived poorly because not many do this anymore. Shops and sheds are a great place to try it though.

    Obviously non-operable windows would be easier. Also dying the wood frame black to prolong greying out and top coating with a clear UV stabilized post-cat urethane if you want the wood look. Or tinting the urethane black for a more homogeneous look.

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