Bill Robinson: Now that the window is installed, I’m ready to flash it. If you remember, I cut back the siding a little over three inches. I’m using a 4-in. self-adhesive butyl flashing tape. I’m using my cutting table to cut my tape to 48 inches. I always start by pulling back the edge of the release paper enough so I can work with it when I get it into position.
Because this window has an applied flange, I need be sure to roll the flashing tape about 1/2-in. up onto the window frame itself to make sure we have a water-tight seal here. I’m going to use my speed square to to push the tape up against the frame and get the overlap tight into the corner. Then I’m going to cut where the tape runs past the corners of the window frame so the tape can lay flat. And I’ll just go to the other side of the window and repeat these steps. I also use my J-roller to make sure all tape is tight into the corners.
Next, Bill cuts small pieces of flexible corner-flashing tape to seal off the corners at the top of the window. He also cuts a piece for the joint where the two windows are mulled together.
Bill: Now the rigid metal flashing will go over the top of the window. I’m going to apply a bead of sealant to the back of that, then center it over the top of the window. You can see how the flashing will take any rain that gets under the eaves and deflect it out away from the window. I’ll put a couple of fasteners through the flashing to hold it in place.
The final step for flashing…