Brickmold door install with ZIP sheathing and Prosoco / ZIP Liquid
I’ve been having trouble finding any detail for a brickmould door install when the R.O. is flashed with Prosoco or Zip Liquid Flash.
When the R.O. is flashed with tape, I’ve seen people apply sealant to the rear of the brickmould, and slap the brickmould against the sheathing, then caulk the brickmould transition to the ZIP sheathing. Apply flashing tape over the head, etc.
I know this method will work with the liquid flashing as well, but I’m a little shaky about water management that relies on properly caulking pieces of applied trim (brickmould). Is there a better method, or is it fine to rely on the brickmould seal and the fully-flashed R.O. to drain to the exterior?
I’ve also seen details (for tape-flashed R.O.) that remove the brickmould, and use tape to flash between the flat sheathing plane and the jam edge, then reinstall the brickmould over the tape. Or apply liner-ed flashing tape to the jamb sides, which come from behind the brickmould and tie to the sheathing.
I’m not sure if the tape methods apply for liquid flashing, as applying tape over liquid flashing doesn’t seem to be supported by the product manufacturers.
I’m planning on using the “Door Installation” method from the awesome Hammer & Hand Best Practices manual, with a Prosoco pan with L-metal backdam, and Prosoco on the R.O. They are missing details that address the door sealing on the exterior side. Most other liquid flashing resources focus on windows and totally ignore door-specific details.
This is for my workshop with a slab and a double outswing door with aluminum threshold, not a house with a finished floor, etc.
The brickmold is wide and flat, not the more common routed brickmold profile.
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