GBA Logo horizontal Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram YouTube Icon Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Video Play Icon Plus Icon Minus Icon Picture icon Hamburger Icon Close Icon Sorted

Community and Q&A

Vapor Retarder With Rainscreen Assembly

JMMR | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on

Good Morning, I know this topic has been talked about! I’m building a 2000 sq foot home in zone 5 , I have 2×6 walls with zip sheathing taped and sealed, with 1 1/2 rock wool (r 6)on exterior with 3/4 inch rain screen with hardie board and batten siding, inside I have (r 23) rock wool batts . Should I use a vapor retarder on interior wall ( intellio) because I’m not meeting the (r 7.5) on the exterior or should I keep it out because I have the rain screen ? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!
Michael

GBA Prime

Join the leading community of building science experts

Become a GBA Prime member and get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

Replies

  1. creativedestruction | | #1

    R7.5 ci might not even be enough with R23 in the cavities. Zone 5 you want about 30% outboard which is more like R10. Code may require that you include a class 2 vapor retarder inboard of the stud cavities. Intello, Membrain, or asphalt saturated kraft would suffice.

  2. charlie_sullivan | | #2

    With rock wool on the exterior, you don't really need to follow those rules. Your sheathing will be warmer and dryer than without the mineral wool board. So you are fine. On the other hand, intello on the interior will help and give you more margin, so you might consider it even though it's not strictly needed. It can be a good air barrier, and you need a good way to do that on the interior in any case.

  3. JMMR | | #3

    Thank you Jason & Charlie,
    Charlie regarding your comment that the sheathing will be warmer and dryer with out the exterior rock wool. Not sure I understand, dryer yes but with the exterior insulation would it be warmer or colder?

    1. alex_coe | | #6

      Exterior insulation will keep the sheathing warmer.
      Why not just use the 2" thick R8? It's a nice sweet spot in terms of value and performance.

  4. Jon_R | | #4

    IRC allows a Class II or Class III. But with low perm Zip and R23 fill, don't push either limit (.1 perms and 10 perms). I'd use something around 1 perm. +1 on something with variable perms (even paint) to add resiliency. Always test air sealing and consider interior side air sealing.

    https://www.continuousinsulation.org/content/2021-ibc-and-irc-adopt-improved-vapor-retarder-requirements

    1. Expert Member
      Dana Dorsett | | #7

      >"But with low perm Zip and R23 fill..."

      ZIP isn't significantly lower perm than any other OSB product, and with high-permeance rock wool on the exterior next to a 3/4" rainscreen gap the drying rate to the exterior is pretty good even in the dead of winter.

      Bottom line, even though the R-ratio isn't enough to keep the average temp at the ZIP above the indoor air's dew point, there isn't really an appreciable risk in a zone 5 location since there's effectively zero exterior moisture drive and plenty of exterior drying capacity in that stackup. At the cold edge of zone 6 it MIGHT need a lower-perm interior (even then, maybe not), but not in zone 5. A smart membrane interior vapor retarder would only be for the "belt AND suspenders" folks. Any accumulated moisture over the winter can dry (in both directions) during the spring shoulder season well before the average temp at the ZIP will support mold.

      1. creativedestruction | | #9

        "would only be for the "belt AND suspenders" folks"

        Or for those needing to satisfy the code.

  5. JMMR | | #5

    Thanks Jon, that’s a great link you posted

  6. Deleted | | #8

    Deleted

Log in or create an account to post an answer.

Community

Recent Questions and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |