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Community and Q&A

EcoSeal Vs. Energy Complete

LaciB | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on

Hi Martin,

I read the 2011 posts on these products when they were new. Wondering if 7 years later you or the readers have learned anything more that would help me choose between them. I plan to air seal the outside of a residential new construction Hunter XCI ply sheathing with a Siga tape and thought that air sealing on the inside would be a good ‘boots and suspenders’ approach.



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  1. NormanWB | | #1

    Will you be doing the work or hiring it out? If the former, then Energy Complete is not an option; it's a pro-only product. You can do it yourself with EcoSeal, if (and that's a big if) you have the proper spray equipment. The big box store units will not push this sprayable caulk.

    I got the most powerful one in my area from a commercial paint store (Sherwin-Williams) and it was not fully up to the task. With the many stops and starts to clean the clogged nozzle, it might have been easier and less costly to use a good hybrid caulk, with EcoSeal running close to $300 for five gallons.

    Also, if you are using an insulation that is blown into the walls (I did damp spray cellulose), be aware that it will stick to your EcoSeal (which stays tacky) and may affect the seal to the drywall.

    If I had to do it all over again, I would seal all the gaps with a good hybrid caulk or spray foam (as appropriate) before the insulation was sprayed in. After the insulation was in, I would create a seal at the top and bottom plates with a bead of caulk or use an EDPM gasket like the ones from Conservation Tech, to create "airtight" drywall.

    EcoSeal is a fine product, but for a DIY job it leaves much to be desired.

    1. LaciB | | #2

      Hi Norman,

      I will not be applying the product myself. Would prefer to use someone who is an expert with the product. Your comment about the spray caulk being compatible with the cavity insulation is interesting. I am going to use a 2# closed cell. Still more investigating to do.



      1. NormanWB | | #3

        The EcoSeal inside the stud bay was not an issue, but Knauf recommends a bead along the top and bottom plates as well as around windows to create an airtight drywall assembly. With damp spray cellulose, a scrubber is used to remove the excess insulation from the bays runs along the studs; the EcoSeal bead can cause some issues with that. Also, the top and bottom plate beads hold some insulation which may affect the efficacy of the seal.

        While probably more costly, doing EcoSeal in two passes would probably work better. One to picture frame inside the stub bays before insulating and the other to run the air sealing beads, Of course, if you are not careful, you could spray the insulation out of the bay. This will not be a problem with spray foam in the bays.

  2. user-5088330 | | #4


    I work for Knauf Insulation as a Training Manager. I’ve worked closely with EcoSeal Plus™ (ES+), and have seen Energy Complete® (EC) installed in the field several times as part of a joint training venture that both companies are participating in through HPIP (

    Both products work, and are relatively easy to install if you have the equipment, and know where to apply it. Both products are very flexible and compressible, so they can be used in the cavity or on the face of framing members for airtight drywall. Norman is right in that neither application are really DIY just yet.

    I think that if you’re looking for air tightness, you are already doing a belt and suspenders type approach with SIGA on the exterior and ccSPF on the interior. Every house is different, and without knowing your layout or plan I cannot speak to your specific needs, but typically your real benefit for air tightness would be to pay attention to your attic top plate connections, attic penetrations, garage common walls (if you have them), rim/band joists, and duct sealing.

    If you’re interested in trying to locate a contractor near you to apply ES+ or have more questions, call Knauf at 317-398-4434 and ask for me. I would also be happy to connect you with someone at OC for help with EC.


  3. Granular | | #5

    Ecoseal isn't ideal for new construction - far easier/cheaper to air-seal sheathing from the outside. Use an acoustic sealant bead at the edges of plywood panels before you nail sheathing to the studs. If done in conjunction with taped seams, you will get an economical, lasting air-tight seal.

    My favorite acoustic sealant is Tremco TremPro JS-773 - it's an inexpensive, non-skinning, always-flexible, non-hardening acoustic sealant that won't crack/split/tear/rip. On interiors, I prefer using Green Glue Compound (not to be mistaken with Green Glue Sealant that skins over and shrinks).

    By contrast, Ecoseal requires labor-inten$ive beads sprayed at both sides of each piece of lumber in the wall (difficult to spray every joint with an unwieldy spray want - even their installation videos show missed areas if you pay attention) - Ecoseal requires far more labor, far more time, far more material and ultimately is less effective. Makes no sense unless your framers forgot to add beads of acoustic sealant when they placed sheathing on the studs.

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