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Community and Q&A

glazing custom wood windows, double pane glass

skidmorebay | Posted in Green Building Techniques on

Hi all,
I’ve built a collection of traditional sliding-sash wood windows for an addition on our house. I did this on the original section of our house ten years ago, and the windows have held up very well. I built two-over-two windows to go with the traditional aesthetic of our Maine-style house in Alaska.

Last time around, I bought double-pane glass units, secured them in the sash with glazing points, and glazed them with Sterling Aqua Glaze putty. This is a latex putty that won’t degrade the butyl seals of double pane glass like oil-based putty will.

I just learned that Aqua Glaze has been discontinued. I’m looking for a glazing option that is safe for our glass units. Silicone, with a wood bead on the outside? Butyl caulk? Anyone know how is this usually done with modern reproduction windows using double-pane glass?

thank you,

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  1. Expert Member


    Sorry I don't have an answer for you, but the whole exterior looks great.

  2. gusfhb | | #2

    Most modern windows are held together with silicone, there are types that don't interfere with butyl sealant.
    Essentially the kind that are not stinky, I'll see if I can find the email that listed the ones that were approved for my brand of glass, but you should be able to find some

  3. [email protected] | | #3

    Neutral cure silicones are usually okay, but agreeing with gusfhb comment, anything acetoxy based (smells like vinegar, usually two part), is going to wreck your seals. Dow 795, 799, 899, and 995 (among others) are all used to seal IG units in place. All are one part neutral cure, and any of those should work for you. While not an exclusive list by any means, these are just a few that I am familiar with off the top of my head that I know are used by different window manufacturers.

    Some manufacturers use urethane rather than silicone products, and while it may work for them, I would generally avoid urethanes since not all are going to be compatible with the sealants used in the IGU.

    Otherwise, basic glazing tape might also be an option since it is pretty common and generally works quite well for those companies that glaze that way.

    And I agree with Malcom that the outside of your house looks great.

    1. Expert Member
      MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #4


      It's great to have you posting on window related stuff. I learn a lot.

    2. gusfhb | | #5

      Thanks for coming up with the tech terms, I did find the email that the sales guy from Cardinal was serious about the sealants, but not the reply with the names to use, although I remember using what the required

      On my shop built sliders, I took the chance of never breaking one, and so far[knock on wood]
      I have won that one. I built the glass into the frame, meaning it takes a router to replace the glass. Maybe a dumb idea, but maybe it will give the look you want. I have 2 foot overhangs, so worry little about water, but my assembly is basically an 8 piece frame with simple lap joints, that allows you to have a pair of drain channels kind of accidentally at the bottom corners of the glass

  4. skidmorebay | | #6

    Wow, thanks everyone. I hadn't heard of the Dow products, and it's great to know exactly what kind of silicone is preferred for this.
    I was really hoping to find a type of putty that would give the traditional putty-glazed look on the outside. But I guess I will mostly like water-seal with a silicone and create beveled wood stops to attach to the outside with brads for a similar look.

    Thanks for the comments on the house. I pulled the proportions of the windows from the old buildings at Fort Seward in Haines, Alaska. They are made of old-growth Hemlock from a small local mill.

    1. Expert Member
      MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #7

      Very nice work.

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