The two video clips on installing rigid insulation on exteriors are very good.
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| Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on
I think they would be good for training purposes. How could I use them and how much cost would it be?
Thanks.
BC
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BC,
I agree about the videos(worth a thousands pictures)
here is my free tip...
go to the video or article you like
copy (ctrl-c)the address from your browser window
paste(ctrl-v) it into an email
email to your subs or team
Then all they have to do is click on the link
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/how-install-rigid-foam-insulation-outside-house
Glad you like the videos. there are a lot more coming too.
While I like John's method of sending people to our website, there is another way you can do it. The videos are on our YouTube page (https://www.youtube.com/user/GreenBuildingAdvisor), so you can go there and grab the embed code (a string of HTML code that makes sense to very few people). Now you can put them in a blog or web page of your own.
We believe that the text accompanying the videos helps give a fuller picture, so we encourage you to link to the appropriate pages at GreenBuildingAdvisor.com.
I passed along your compliments to Rob, our camera man/editor/director/producer.
Dan
Talking about YouTube
here is a nice collection of Building Science videos from BuildingGeek
https://www.youtube.com/user/BuildingGeek#p/u/4/nf64EV9yQcI
A question to my good informed friends. Why does the building trades resist using a Radian Barrier System, RBS along with insulation. A good RBS block, not just slow, but blocks 97% of all radiant heat both into and out of a building. Insulation doesn't make any difference what kind it is only slows heat transfer. R-Value means ristance, just slows transfer does not block as a RBS. My information comes from RIMA the Radiant Insulation Manufacturing Association.
bc
bc,
Of course your information comes from the trade association trying to sell a product that has very limited value in most applications. You might try searching for objective building science based information, instead.
Attic radiant barriers can be useful in hot climates. Interior radiant air spaces, particularly in floors (heat moving downwards), can be very cost-effective. And, as we all know, radiant barriers in windows (lowE surfaces) are very effective in both increasing the thermal effectiveness of cold climate windows and reducing unwanted solar gain in hot climates.
But the much-touted sub-slab radiant "insulation" is close to worthless, particularly if it takes the place of very effective XPS foam board. And radiant barriers can be counterproductive in some instances, such as creating a vapor barrier at the rafters if not perforated, or getting covered in dust if applied horizontally over attic insulation and becoming just another conductive material.
Anyone who bases material decisions on sales propaganda is on a fool's errand. Get the facts.
Robert
Yes I am very well aware of salesman representation been crawling porches all my adult life. It goes without saying it has to be done correctly, look what happened to the space ship few years ago. Radiant Shield works when applied properly. It is been proven lots of test results out there that Radiant Barrier System with quality product like LP TechShield blocks, not slow down as insulation does but blocks. We have built over 600 homes in states and Mexico using RBS on all exterior walls and roof. All insulation is continuous EPS on outside forming an envelope. No venting using a heat exchanger. Blower door came in at 2.7. I know it all works and we need it all, RBS, insulation and stop air infiltration. Check out "www.inERGYHOMES.com.
BC,
You're coming across as a salesman. Tests have demonstrated a 5%-10% reduction in cooling costs with a radiant barrier under the roof, little advantage except in floors in a heating climate, and no advantage under a slab (in spite of manufacturer's claims).
Insulation and air sealing are the primary strategies for energy efficiency. Radiant barriers in limited and appropriate applications can add some small additional advantage. Those are the facts, the rest is sales promotion.
And I wouldn't expect much else from someone who claims that steel framing is "green" or energy efficient (as per your website).
BC,
I noticed that your wall insulation is outboard of the structure...Good.
What about at the roof? it looks like the foam is going to be between the steel rafters and in contact with the Low E foil surface? If so...Not Good and Not Good
Did you notice the fastener thermal bridging on your walls?
http://inergyhomes.com/thermal-bridging
BC,
A sidebar in our article Insulation choices
RADIANT BARRIERS
Radiant barriers are shiny sheets of material—aluminum foil, for example—with a low-e (low emissivity) surface. When an air space has a low-e material on one or both sides, the R-value of the air space or building assembly increases.
The effect of a radiant barrier on a building assembly's R-value may be significant or insignificant, depending on whether the assembly is well insulated or poorly insulated. Radiant barriers do not significantly benefit well-insulated assemblies. A poorly insulated assembly, however, will benefit from a radiant barrier. That's why radiant barriers make the most sense when installed in an uninsulated steel warehouse; they make the least sense when incorporated into residential walls or roofs, as these assemblies are already required by code to be insulated.
Radiant barrier products can be foil-faced kraft paper, foil-faced polyethylene film, or foil facings on rigid insulation or wood-fiber sheathing. No paints — not even aluminized paints — qualify as radiant barriers. If the radiant surface is touching another material, it won't work; an air space is required on at least one side of a radiant barrier in order for it to function as designed. Otherwise, it functions as a conductor.
If radiant barriers are installed horizontally with an air space above—for example, on an attic floor—their usefulness rapidly deteriorates due to dust accumulation.
Radiant barriers have no R-value. However, if installed adjacent to an air space, they can help raise the R-value of the air space.
Dan,
I am not sure it is fair to say that radiant/low E surfaces make little sense in residential walls and roofs.....they CAN have value IF used properly.(as in the David Joyce Video)
I do see them being mis-used all the time AND on TV.
Just today on Renovation Nation the "Green" homeowners payed a premium for Energy Star foil faced wall sheathing and then covered the foil with those wonderful Denin Batts.
Whenever I see denim Batts I now I will see some dumb BS
BC,
I now see from another one of your slides that it looks like you are also placing the roof insulation outboard of the structure and probably leaving the "shiny stuff" with an air space.
The fastener issue is still something to consider.
I think the tips of the fasteners should be insulated when they are not inbeded in wood.
They are providing a thermal short in your system and may also become condensation collectors.
Did you look at the thermal photo?
we have had no moisture with condensation on the fasteners or framing. The complete framing has continuous insulation with nothing in the cavities both roof and exterior walls. I know its hard to accept new ideas and as for the little added expenses installing a Radiant Barrier System it is a good buy. Don't forget I am saying you need it all, insulation, Radiant Barrier and stop air infiltration. To do these three we have found steel framing the best method. John always remember there are no 100% that I am aware of even a salesman has no claim on that. The second larges check a home owner writes each month is for utilities. It's called the "Cap Rate" each dollar I save off of "TCO or Total Cost Ownership" comes back to me when and if I sell the home figure your own Cap Rate. I can tell you have it in for sales people but my country nothing happens till a sales person sells something.
bc
BC,
Sorry that I at first thought you had cavity insulation at the roof.
Kudos to you for insulating outside the steel structure.
I also can see how the ""shiny stuff" has a benefit in the way that you are using it.
I still urge you to consider those fasteners.
I have read some convincing warnings from cold climate builders concerning exposed fastener tips.
I think there is likely a significant thermal loss also...
Do you not see the polka-dots on your thermal image?
Look at your slab edge too in the larger photo(click on the polka-dot photo)
PS .. I do not see you as being a "salesman"
BC,
Neither radiant barriers nor steel framing are "new ideas", and I (and many others here) have been pioneers in cutting edge design, materials, methods and construction for 30 years. I was building some of the most energy-efficient, resource-efficient AND low cost homes in the US 20 years ago.
And I don't "have it in for sales people", but I have zero tolerance for people propagating false or misleading information, particularly when they have a financial vested interest in a product or practice.
The field of "pubic relations" (advertising), which was called propaganda by its founder (Freud's nephew Edward Bernays), is based on the manipulation of information and consumers' unconscious desires for the sake of pecuniary gain.
Note: that should have read "public relations". Must have been a Freudian slip ;-)
BC,
Here is a document that mentions the fastener issue
see page 41
http://sustainable.cchrc.org/docs/REMOTE_Manual.pdf
oops it is pdf page #41 not actual page number
Good idea on the EPS screws and the moisture issue. We have not had the problem but that doesn't mean the problem does not there. One way to solve it just depends on cost is to go on inside and cover the screw point where it come into cavity with spray foam. Good idea thanks.
As for using steel it is not new but it just as well be new as of the new generation of computer. One guy in a wheel chair can and does as well as a 26 year old lady produce two 2000 sq. ft. home a day. Thanks to the computer.
bc