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3 Answers

No basement, want no interior VOCs, looking for low cost exterior climate control for paints, caulking and their ilk

I have nearly finished construction of our slab-on-grade house in zone 5 MA.

We have neither a basement, an attic nor garage. All the interior space shares the same air, with a tiny utility room. Interior air quality is important -- the house is all pine and cement. No plywood, no mdf, no chipboard, no OSB; essentially, no glues or resins. No combustion equipment .. all electric. Very few plastics, no carpets, no paint. What we breathe matters.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kenneth Gartner | Mar 23 18
5 Answers

Basement vapour barrier


In Building Code Questions | Asked By user-6994354 | Feb 17 18
2 Answers

Necessity of smart vapor retarder in Tiny House on Wheels in Zone 4A?

GBA community,

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Cam Kerr | Mar 23 18
5 Answers

Does interior ceiling strapping cause a moisture issue?

I am in climate zone 6 and am currently concerned about my insulation strategy on
a remodel of a 100 year old kitchen.The customer wants cathedral ceilings so I am trying to do my best

In General questions | Asked By Eric Anderson | Mar 22 18
14 Answers

Outdoor mini split condenser unit in an insulated ventilated box indoors?

I need to cool (summer) and heat (winter) one room which is total 16.7 x 12.2 x 8.5 feet (1731 cubicfeet) (5.10m x 3.70m x 2.6m). I would need a unit between 2 or 3 tons.

Unfortunately I am not able to install the outside condenser unit outside of the building. That is the reason why I need expert advice.

In Mechanicals | Asked By purpleAnt | Mar 20 18
2 Answers

Rockwool (Roxul) sheet sizes. [2' x 4' or 4' x 8']

We're about to start insulating the foundation walls with Rockwool/Roxul Comfortboard IS 80.

In all of my reading I have seen theses boards come as 2' x 4' boards. Even then I have read of some difficulty handling.

Our supplier is suggesting 4' x 8' boards of the same product, but I am worried that this will be even more difficult to work with.

Has anyone here worked with Comfortboard for vertical exterior insulation and have experience witht he 2' x 4' or 4' x 8' board sizes? Any thoughts on the matter?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ethan T ; Climate Zone 5A ; ~6000HDD | Mar 22 18
1 Answer

Polyiso Interior Insulation in Old Barn

I am starting on the second floor remodel of a 19th c. barn, and I'm considering using polyiso panels on the interior side. I've never used rigid and non-rigid insulation in conjunction, and I have a few questions.

The Basics:

This will be a storage space and workroom. The barn is in Maine. The barn exterior is original horizontal siding (which I may be replacing but not until summer) over original vertical 1x sheathing (with some gaps). This is attached directly to the frame of the barn, which is open on the inside and roughly 5" deep.

My Plan:

In Green building techniques | Asked By ThreeBirdFarm | Mar 22 18
3 Answers

Water heater power consumption monitoring.

I searched but only found one thread from three years ago. The advice then was to use a standard power meter. While the idea is good, the box and meter would take up a large amount of space and wouldn't really give much information about when the power is being used. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced option to monitor a single 240v circuit? Thanks

In Mechanicals | Asked By Calum Wilde | Mar 22 18
10 Answers

Zip or Zip R?

I've been doing a lot of research trying to find the best option for residing by 1920 house located in Climate Zone 4 - mixed-humid. Existing plaster and lathe walls on the interior. I've asked a few questions on this website and the responses have been very helpful so I'm asking one more.

I'm planning to remove the existing vinyl siding and wood clapboards and spray foam the walls from the exterior with medium density spray foam to give the stud cavity an R value of about 21.5.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Michael Mohr | Jan 24 18
28 Answers

Taping of Roof Sheathing / Wall to Ceiling Vapor Barriers

We building in climate zone 6A. We have planned unvented cathedral ceilings and we are planning to do 4" (or maybe just 2" depending on cost) of closed cell spray foam applied to the underside of the roof deck. We are then going to net and blow in fiberglass to the remainder of the cavities between the 16" TGI's.

I'm planning on the closed cell foam being my air and vapor barrier on the roof. On the walls the my air barrier will be the taped sheathing and the wall vapor retarder will be latex paint.

Two questions:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Steve Mackay | Mar 21 18
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