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4 Answers

11' X 30' room. Fujitsu 9rls2h. The specifications shows the flow pattern is long and skinny. Would it be best to install at the middle of the long wall or install at the end on a short wall? There will be ceiling fans at the midpoint and at the point farthest from the minisplit if on a short wall.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Shawn Shumaker | Jul 28 14
2 Answers

A major source of heat loss/gain are the side east and west facing plaster & lathe side walls.

I've measured the temperature of those walls; they stay hotter than outside temps well into the night, and there's 5-10 degree increase as you go up the wall from floor to ceiling. They're actually hotter than ceiling and kneewalls alot of the time. There's also some moisture coming through; the plaster is rotted through under the window apron and there are cracks in the corners.

In General questions | Asked By Tomas Bridle | Jul 28 14
8 Answers

Hello, I really appreciate this website.

I understand that powered attic ventilators have a lot of problems. But my contractor is suggesting adding one to support a whole-house fan, due to the limited attic ventilation. (I do have some passive ventilation but not quite enough, and the gables are maxed out because it's a flat roof.)

So as long as I always run both fans at the same time, and as long as the cfm of the whole house fan exceeds the cfm of the attic fan, is there still going to be a problem?

Thanks!

In General questions | Asked By Robert Shelton | Jul 25 14
3 Answers

I am planning a 30'x22' farm workshop in Eastern Ontario, Canada. I want to end up with a level floor suitable for woodworking machines (table and bandsaws, planer, jointer etc) , Floor will be on grade, location is on a small rise and I will make sure there is good drainage away from building. I will place 2" of SM insulation under floor. I will most likely frame double stud walls and insulate with 6" to 7" of Roxul.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By mark godfrey | Jul 26 14
10 Answers

Reading about rainscreen siding systems it seems that the recommended gaps are typically 1/2" to 3/4" between the housewrap and and the back of the siding. Is there any reason why one couldn't do a very large gap using thicker furring material? Maybe around 3" or 4" between the siding and the sheathing for architectural reasons on a remodel? Would there be problems with having that large of a gap?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kevin Hardy | Jul 26 14
6 Answers

Hi All,

We are using Foamglas for insulating under our slab as well as the slab edges (monolithic slab on grade). It is a requirement to leave a 2" gap above the Foamglas on the slab edges for termite inspections. Are there any options to satisfy this requirement, but not have the thermal gap? Perhaps industrial strength velcro or something :) ?

Thank you,
Stacey Owens

In Green building techniques | Asked By Stacey Owens | Jul 18 14
8 Answers

(Examples of what I am referring to can be seen at: http://vastern.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Splayed-cladding-detail.jpg AND http://www.bartonqualitytimber.co.uk/images/categories/chestnut%20claddi... )

I am not terribly conceded about the cedar: if it is stained all 6 sides with two coats and placed on black painted strapping, then it should handle the elements reasonably well. My main concern is what the substrate behind it should be.

In General questions | Asked By Burke Stoller | Jul 18 14
24 Answers

I had R60 blown into my 1000sqft attic where there was previously only about R11. Baffles were installed in almost every roof rafter. Air sealing of attic floor was performed. This is a low pitch asphalt shingled hip roof over the whole house.

In General questions | Asked By Jeff Watson | Jul 12 14
2 Answers

This question might have an obvious answer, but I haven't been able to dig up anything on google. If I were to purchase a tear-down property that had an existing uninsulated, fieldstone basement, what would be the best course of action to build a high performance house? Fill it in with dirt then to then create a slab on grade? Tear out the fieldstone and use the existing cavity to create an insulated basement (while also hopefully re-using the fieldstone on site for something useful like a wall)?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ethan Fahy | Jul 21 14
3 Answers

We had our basement encapsulated in the fall last year and made it through winter no issues. They used a thick mil high quality (apparently) vapor barrier and then sprayed /fogged with mold preventative. I don't think there is any more mold - smell is not musty really and I don't get a mold allergy reaction.

In General questions | Asked By jeff weikert | Jul 22 14
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