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1 Answer

New Home - Wall Assembly Review

I'm building my first custom home this summer and could use GBA's collective wisdom to vet the wall assemblies.

Zone 5a
Logix Platinum ICF basement (R-28)
2x6 advanced framing, blown cellulose, 7/16" OSB, Tamlyn Drainable WRB, 1.5" Terrafoan EPS, Fiber cement or steel siding.
Conditioned attic with min. R-38 closed cell spray foam
"Innie" window placement

Will placing the drainable WRB between the sheeting and EPS cause air flow that will serve to defeat the EPS insulation?
Does this mean I should move to an "Outie" window placement?

In Plans Review | Asked By Nethaniel Ealy | Apr 16 15
22 Answers

Can a house be built without wood?

A thought experiment, no wood beams, studs, sheathing, subfloor, rafters or anything else that is part of the house (wood furniture or other possessions are fine, we are far from a paperless society). With a price comparable or at most 50% more then a conventional house how would one build a house with a basement, main floor, second floor if possible, attic and roof?

Of course it should be insulated, the 5/10/20/40/60 would be fine, and would have the usual amenities, washer/dryer, fridge/stove, pluming, electricity etc.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Alan B | Apr 11 15
5 Answers

Multisplit temperature control per zone

I am considering a multisplit heatpump system for our 3000 s.f. two-story renovation located in Chicago, Zone 5. I like the idea of a multisplit system for its high efficiency and zone control. I would like to provide 1 unit per bedroom using ducted interior units that supply conditioned air to each bedroom.

In Mechanicals | Asked By AlokKhuntia | Apr 14 15
4 Answers

WRB advice

Finishing several additions to a coastal home in South Georgia.
Basically...plywood, wrb, vented furring strips, cedar shingle sidewall.
Due to the hot summer we plan to go north for 4 months and won't be able to completely finish the exterior. Looks like the WRB applied is about as far as I can get.. So...what wrb to use.
I know these products have limited "uncover" time.
Thinking a liquid applied WRB might be the way to go...considering wind, ripping, etc.
Any thoughts......thanks

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Robert Brown | Apr 15 15
4 Answers

Warren Thatcher "Build a container home" guide worthwhile?

I can find no decent review of this guy's downloadable content, though his marketing scheme is amazing. Does anyone have any first hand information about the contents of his guide?

In General questions | Asked By Hal Ferguson | Apr 14 15
6 Answers

Can anyone direct me to the best information on wiring a new residence for 100% LED lighting?

I am looking for LED wiring 101 ~ What are wire gauge options, voltage regulating options and what are the things to watch out for?

I understand we are still very much in a hybrid AC/DC universe and AC has to exist for kitchen appliances, and infrastructure appliances in the Utility room, however our client wants to take the step into LED. The house is around 1600sf and one floor.

In General questions | Asked By Caroline Di Diego | Apr 13 15
6 Answers

Can I insulate between brick veneer siding and the wall studs?

I have a home built in 1977 and my south wall is cold in the winter. Can I safely inject foam insulation in the air gap behind the brick veneer. The company that does this work told me it was okay to do this; however, no one I have asked that laid the bricks or sold the bricks thinks it is a good idea. They tell me that this area is needed to get rid of any moisture that might happen between the brick and the gypsum board backing. I have been told I need this space for moisture to evaporate. . I do have fiberglass insulation but this wall is still cold.

In General questions | Asked By Seeger | Apr 11 15
7 Answers

Insulating a "3-Season Room" or Sunroom in the Mid-Atlantic

My house was built in 1955 with a north-side carport (driveway extended under, roof extended over - including attic with loose-fill insulation, supported by four load-bearing brick columns presumably with footers below) - in the 70s, it was closed in (2x4 framing, plywood, vinyl siding, and jalousie windows. It was ducted for heat and air conditioning although the ducts remain closed. Since we moved in, we replaced the windows with nicer/newer/normal vinyl, and we replaced our HVAC and had them size it such that it would support the sunroom if it were ever insulated/sealed.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Cory McConnell | Apr 13 15
28 Answers

Rainscreen differences when using mineral wool rather than foam?

Need to replace siding and roofing on my 1942-vintage house. Climate 4C. 8-in-12 gable roof. 2x4 walls.

Because I'll be removing all the contact-clad stucco and replacing it with rainscreened Hardi-Board, I thought it would be a good opportunity to add insulation to the outside of the house (right down to the footings). Ditto with the roof. Thought it'd be a good opportunity to add on over/under-roof with an air gap on top of the new insulation.

In Green products and materials | Asked By John Charlesworth | Apr 9 15
5 Answers

Trying to get quotes on windows for our renovation project in North Vancouver, BC.

I am trying to get quotes on windows for our renovation project in North Vancouver, BC. What a headache. Where do I start?

I would like to have an energy efficient window so my options are double pane or triple pane with 1 low-e coating or 2 low-e coatings. And then you determine which low-e glass you need; 180,270, or 366 Cardinal is the most common.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Aaron Gatzke | Apr 12 15
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