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1 Answer

Can any one tell me the guage of the metal skin on SIPs 4" nailboard?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Bruce Glanville | Feb 2 12
9 Answers

I've read a few of the articles on how to properly design an unvented crawlspace, but couldn't quite find something that fit the scenario of the crawlspace under my apartment. So here goes.

I'm currently renting an apartment, while in school, that is located just feet from a small lake. Upon conducting general UA calculations for total heat loss in the building (as a project for a class), I noticed a few things of concern in the crawlspace below the first floor, and am looking for some advice. Allow me to explain the circumstances.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Mike LaCrosse | Feb 1 12
4 Answers

A client of mine has a couple of large skylights, about 5'x7', both facing southwest, and they really get cooking when the sun is out, so we're looking for ways to reduce the amount of solar heat coming through them They are low-e2 glass. Options we're considering are (1) reglaze them with lower SHGC glass, (2) install interior "storm" windows below the existing glass, and (3) applying some sort of film to reduce solar heat gain. There appear to be several manufacturers of such films... 3M and SolarGard are a couple.

How well do these work? What are the issues?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Meiland | Feb 1 12
Answers

The contest: GuildQuality will feature pictures and brief descriptions of our readers’ best green building projects ... on [the GuildQuality] website, and readers will vote on their favorites.

How to enter: Before February 15, email marketing at guildquality dot com at least one and as many as nine pictures of your company’s best green building project, along with a 50 to 200 word description of the project.

In General questions | Asked By Carl Seville | Feb 1 12
10 Answers

I'm planning an exterior renovation in S.C. (hot, humid zone 3). I'll be installing 1" of foil faced polyiso on the exterior. I plan to seal the seams, but am considering a belt and suspenders approach to the drainage plane. I don't know that I trust the tapes and sealants to hold up under such extreme conditions, so I'm considering installing a house wrap over the top to allow better flashing integration, especially in the area where a gable roof ties directly into the side of the home.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By J C | Feb 1 12
64 Answers

My wife and I own a lot in a development in the Pacific NW (Zone 4c), and we are planning to build our retirement house on it. We have never built a house before. Our projected house (which we designed ourselves) is 1,833 sq. ft. on one story, a modified California-style bungalow, as simple in geometry as we could make it.

In General questions | Asked By Gordon Taylor | Jan 23 12
11 Answers

Has anyone seen any direct comparisons/reviews of using propane fired HWH (tank & tankless) vs a heat pump based HWH?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jim Orasky | Jan 31 12
8 Answers

I will pose my questions here, and if needed the story and all details I know will follow. Currently my roof over just my living room, it was an addition, is a vaulted cathedral ceiling. It goes as follows, shingles>plywood>3/4"stryofoam material (seemed like actual styrofoam, definitely not foam board)>T&G.

That is the original layout, I have since added R-30 between rafters under original T&G and was going to do a new T&G ceiling on top of that, as that was what I was told to do by my roofer. I was not aware of the gap to let roof breathe for cathedral ceilings.

In General questions | Asked By Kevin Baughman | Jan 31 12
39 Answers
In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Brooks | Dec 17 11
3 Answers

I am renovating a 115 year old building in Denver, Colorado. The structure is triple-wythe solid-bonded very soft masonry. (See the attached photo.) I'd like to apply Spray Polyurethane Foam on the interior side of the wall and then overframe and drywall. (I can't do anything to the exterior because the facade is landmarked.) I have two concerns:

1) That moisture which enters the wall from the exterior will not be able to get out and could cause laminar separation of the masonry due to the freeze-thaw cycle.

In Green building techniques | Asked By aaron tweedie | Jan 19 12
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