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3 Answers

I am working on an exterior wall detail for a guest bedroom and guest bathroom in an addition on our house that will double as storm rooms. The FEMA plans for a storm room show a double layer of 3/4" plywood fastened to wood studs.

Right now I'm thinking of 2x6 studs at 16" on center. From the interior to exterior:

GWB (mold proof);
2x6 studs with unfaced fiberglass insulation;
3/4" Advantek (subflooring) screwed to studs and lapped onto floor and ceiling band joists;
1-1/2" extruded polystyrene;

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bill Daugherty | Mar 5 12
3 Answers

I am going to break ground on a 24'x32' detached workshop in a month or two. I liked Martin's article on "Getting Insulation Out of Your Walls and Ceilings" enough that I am going to give the PERSIST technique a try with this workshop. Here is my wall detail.

In Plans Review | Asked By Clement B. Edgar III | Mar 4 12
2 Answers

We are rebuilding a dormer on a historical house in New Orleans. There are slates going up the side of the dormer to the roof.

Typically, there is a trim board [1"x 8"] from the front of the dormer returning to the roof.One carpenter says the return trim should go over the slates. I maintain that the slates should butt up to the return trim. Who's right?

In General questions | Asked By roger steinbrink | Mar 5 12
4 Answers

I'm in the process of finishing a basement rumpus room for the kids and would like to put 1/4” rubber flooring over the basement concrete floor.
- is there moisture test I need to perform before covering the concrete and potential limitations on floor coverings?
- Are there flooring products/procedures that work best in the basement?
During home construction, a curtain drain was installed up slope, burrito footing drain tile installed properly, and gutter downspouts tight lined away from the house. currently, there are no signs of excess moisture in the basement and no dank smell.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Frank O | Feb 16 12
30 Answers

I just head a long conversation with the Tech Advisors at Huber, the maker of the Zip Panel Systems. They’ve come out with a the Zip System R Sheathing which incorporates the Zip panel with 1/2” (R3.6) or 1” (R6.6) Polyiso installed between the OSB and the stud in one application (see pic#1); available only in TX and PA, but it’ll be soon everywhere else later. It’s a great application and solution for thermal bridging with less labor costs; however, it does come with some issues that must be address by the designer, builder and framer.

In General questions | Asked By Armando Cobo | Aug 24 11
5 Answers

I am building a house in Japan and have not been able to source affordable rigid-foam panels. The house is a timber frame with a surround of DIY "SIPS" (non-structural) in which I want to sandwich 120mm or 4.7inches of rigid foam (R30). I am nearing the point where I am about to import Celotex panels from the UK (http://www.celotex.co.uk/products/celotex-products/celotex-xr4000), which are cost effective (even inc. shipping) compared to domestic products.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Bruce White | Mar 5 12
6 Answers

I have read that XPS extruded pink and blue polystyrene loses a "significant" amount of insulation value when wet. Is this correct and would anyone have a percentage amount? This question is in realtion to an ecoroof underlayment in a marine climate.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Valerie Garrett | Mar 2 12
3 Answers

Does this foundation need to modified into a frost protected shallow foundation with perimeter drainage and damp proofing or is it durable as is? My inlaws have a home near Vancouver BC that is on a shallow footing (estimated 6-8" below grade, but extends above grade.) The soil is compacted gravel and cobble, some sand and well drained. You need a pick ax to dig and a 5 gallon pail of water poured into a hole disappears in seconds. The water table is several feet below the surface as measured in well. The terrain is flat and there are not puddles.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Patrick Walshe | Mar 4 12
10 Answers

I am located in the Albany, NY area zone 5A.

I purchased a dilapidated house and will be doing a deep energy retrofit. The siding will be torn off, most of it is rotten or soft, and I will install huber zip which should provide the air and vapor barrier. Larsen trusses will be installed and the cavity depth will be 12", ~R-40.

In Green building techniques | Asked By upstate ny | Mar 2 12
1 Answer

Hi, two questions if someone can help me out:

1. Is formaldehyde an issue in all types of fiberglass insulation (ie, batts and loose-fill), or just in batts? In other words, if I am doing loose-fill insulation should I look for a formaldehyde free type or is all loose-fill free of formaldehyde? I ask because I see batts advertised as formaldehyde free but not loose fill (for example, the new Owens Corning formaldehyde free line only appears to be for batts).

In Green products and materials | Asked By Brian Jackson | Mar 2 12
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