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14 Answers

Dense pack cellulose OVER closed cell foam in cathedral ceiling?

I am considering the following roof assembly in climate zone 4a: Will i run into code or condensation issues?

Single plane roof 3/ 12 pitch

1) 6x10 timber rafters 4' OC
2) 2x6 T&G decking perpendicular to and OVER (not pieced in between as a cosmetic ceiling) 6x10 rafters
3) 2x4 sleepers, 4' OC, parallel to 6x10 rafters on top of T& G decking.
4) 2x10 boards perpendicular to and resting on top of 2x4 sleepers, 2' OC.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Daniel Miller | Mar 15 15
9 Answers

Another question regarding "Monitoring Moisture Levels in Double-Stud Walls"

So after reading Monitoring Moisture Levels in Double Stud Walls... I am in search of a solution for our double stud walls that are just about ready for insulation. We were planning on filling the 12" cavity with blown cellulose. But that has obvious and now understood issues with moisture and settling we didn't know about. So what to do with my walls? Our insulator suggests closed cell applied 4" R 28 and dense pack cellulose 8" R 28.8. This will still result in a plywood that gets wet and dries but at least we will know the dew point stay on the outside , right ? Thoughts ?


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jocelyn Smith | Mar 15 15
2 Answers

Can I waterproof a concrete deck/roof with either of these strategies?

I have an exposed concrete front porch. The porch also is the roof for a storage room located underneath. Because of a builder error, a waterproof membrane was not installed under the concrete and tied into the exterior drain plain. As a consequence, water always intrudes into the basement (conditioned space). (Before anyone asks, the builder will not honor his warranty and suing him is not a practical.)

I've researched several options for fixing this issue short of breaking up the concrete and starting over. The two most promising (and affordable) approaches are as follows:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Steve Knapp | Mar 16 15
3 Answers

Combine 2 bath exhaust fan runs to vent outside?

I have 2 bathrooms, each with a fan. Both come into the attic as flexible metal about 3 feet from each other. They then snake around and go down to a soffit.

I realize from reaching on this site that this isn't ideal. I'm considering switching them to rigid metal or pvc once they reach the attic, have each continue up slightly about a foot above the attic floor, then slope down toward a new vent in a gable wall.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Jeremy M | Mar 15 15
5 Answers

Air sealing/insulation on top of stairs in a bungalow

Planning my air sealing project I'm most stumped by the stairs area. I tried some photos but they don't help explain it. I've attached one of the second floor hall, the stairs top out just to the left, I'm talking about the narrow ceiling showing in the photo and the slant on top of the ceiling over the stairs.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeremy M | Mar 13 15
2 Answers

Insulating and heating barn

We are are about to start on a project of converting our horse barn into an office area. We are in southern Coos County NH. The area we want to heat is 900 sf, so first floor only. Half the barn has a four foot crawlspace the other is full basement. The building is post and beam about 160 years old. The walls are 6 inches deep the floors and ceilings are thicker because of the beam construction. There is no natural gas, so propane Rinnai wall furnace is what we were considering for heat. Our plan was to use closed cell urethane for insulation, but are open to other ideas.

In General questions | Asked By Ken Chester | Mar 15 15
11 Answers

1 or 2 rigid foam at top plate around attic baffle?

Just joined, hope this is the right category....Ohio is the state.

I'm going to install attic baffles from new soffit vents. I currently have fiberglass blocking the cellulose, under a plywood floor.

I've seen just the baffle, I've seen the baffle with a flat piece of rigid foam on top of the top plate and caulked, I've seen the flat piece of foam along with a vertical piece, also foamed.

Which is best and why?

(Examples attached-I hope- 1487 is my house with the fiberglass pulled back for the photo.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeremy M | Mar 10 15
13 Answers

Please review my floor plan

See attachment for proposed floor plan. My dear, dear wife likes most of it except the location of the pantry/utility room. I've tried to move the flexroom to the area behind the garage (see second attachment), but I end with with a smaller closet and bath in the master. She urged me to ask other people...so people...I am askin'. What's your input on that or anything else you see?

In Plans Review | Asked By Andrew Bennett | Mar 14 15
10 Answers

Insulated slab details for zone 7 walkout

My build is in Kenora Onrtario Canada (zone 7). The basement is a walkout; I need to incorporate a sewage lift station under the floor to pump (shower/toilet/sink and washing machine) water up to my septic
I need to know how to detail the insulation and poly layer under the concrete.
Do I insulate the sides and bottom of the hole the tank (110 gallon) goes into; if so do the joints have to be taped like building an foam box; I can't have the sewage freezing in the tank! Is that even a concern?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By tim brown | Mar 5 15
4 Answers

Building envelope


We live in southeastern Wisconsin and are currently a year into a complete gut/remodel of a home built in 1963. We have the interior complete and are living in the home (family of 4).
We are about to have the siding installed (LP Smartside lap siding) and have a few questions/concerns.

- 2x4 wall construction (16" centers)
- interior spray foam closed cell urethane on all walls with no interior vapor barrier
- attic insulated with loose fill blown in fiberglass insulation R-50 with interior vapor barrier

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kevin Steltenpohl | Feb 16 15
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