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2 Answers

I have an older house (built between 1920's and 1930's). The original house had clap board siding. A previous owner was a mason, and installed a brick veneer. There is an airspace between the two that is at least two inches wide. Right now I am having trouble with flying insects and more ending up in that airspace. Knowing that I have to find the holes that allow the insects in, I was looking for a way to insulate that space to keep air flow to a minimum.

In General questions | Asked By Christopher Brunner | Sep 26 11
9 Answers

I just added a new drain pipe to remove excess water from under the basement footing and from a rainwater tank to a garden near the street. See the attached pic, taken yesterday.

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/5646/diggingdrywell.jpg

At the end of the pipe will be some crushed stone leading down to a drywell.

Question: has anyone ever insulated a drywell to keep it useful for more months out of the year? I have some reclaimed 3" EPS foam I would like to use.

Details on the drain system, popup emitter for handling bursts of water, and drywell plans so far are here:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By rich cowen | Sep 24 11
5 Answers

I'm working on a project that would be made a million times better if I could embed LED diodes into the EPS that I am using....

I understand that EPS is by nature highly flammable, but seeing as it's used as insulation, I'm wondering if embedding the diodes in it would really be a problem.....

Any insight would be very appreciated...

In Interior design | Asked By Krista Pegg | Sep 24 11
0 Answers

So this months JLC has a letter from Thor Matteson concerning gluing shear wall panels to studs, quoted below.

In General questions | Asked By David Argilla | Sep 25 11
2 Answers

I'm in zone 4/5 B (Albuquerque) with a 1950's CMU bungalow. I'm trying to decide which insulation product to go with. I've contacted several contractors and none are inspiring much confidence. With the foam board insulation they had very little to no knowledge of Polyiso. The EIFS guy had only worked with EPS, but was willing to try Polyiso. One was not willing to sheath the exterior chimney. Others were unwilling to do more than 2 inches of insulation.

In Green building techniques | Asked By seth downs | Sep 8 11
3 Answers

This is another of those porch attic insulation interface questions--
Zone 4 - New construction
A couple of attached 3 season porches are created by overhanging roofs. The roof is truss built and the area over the conditioned space will be an unvented conditioned attic insulated with spray foam.

The main question is how to handle the attic space over the porches--

In General questions | Asked By John Nooncaster | Sep 24 11
2 Answers

Saw a video online about a mansion in Missouri (72,000 sq. ft.) that is using some sort of concrete with small pieces of metal in it. This is supposed to increase the strength of the structure to help withstand natural disasters. Unfortunately, the article didn't indicate what this product was called. It's very small pieces of metal, not rebar. I've never seen anything like it. Does anyone have more information on this product? The video can be seen at homesoftherich.net The article there was posted today.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Paul W | Sep 22 11
3 Answers

We talk a lot about 'sustainable design' on this site and within the design and building world. I am curious how you all define this concept in terms of the 'sustainable' and 'green' construction methods of building that we discuss in this forum..

According to the dictionary sustainable is defined as "of, relating to, or being a method of harvesting or using a resource so the resource is not depleted or permanently damaged"

I will leave the question as is for now and see where it leads.

In General questions | Asked By Bruce Friedman | Sep 24 11
1 Answer

Hi everyone,

I am about to begin residing my house. I was wondering what everyone's input was on where the housewrap should go in this case.

House is located in North NJ (zone 5-6 border).

Materials:
-Framing is 2x4
-Fiberglass Batt Insulation R-13 in studs
-Polyiso 1.5" (fiberglass faced polyisocyanurate)(permeability <1.0) less than 1.0 according to a buildingscience article.

Design & Construction Option 1:
-Vinyl Siding
-Polyiso 1.5" (permeability <1.0)
-Housewrap (Tyvek or Dow)(Drainage Plane)
-1/2" Plywood
-2x4 Studs (Fiberglass Batt Insulation R13)

In Green building techniques | Asked By Dan Nospa | Sep 24 11
9 Answers

First off, I have read about every post, blog, and entry made on here about triple pane windows, have talked with the companies, received bids, etc. So with that being said...

On paper, they do not seem to make any sense now matter how I look at it. I have ran numbers in multiple programs from as simple as RESFEN to high end stuff in my Revit MEP and other modeling programs. I am happy to say all of my loads and energy costs are very similar from the free programs to the high end however.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Sep 22 11
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