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1 Answer

The reason for applying styrofoam sheathing over 1/2" osb is obvious. If, for example, 2" inlusation is applied over the osb, is applying the windows as simple as using a 3 1/2" roofing nail as the fastener?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Joel Barto | Sep 20 11
2 Answers

I put on a house addition with XPS on the exterior. I won't be able to side it until next year, leaving the foam exposed to sun and elements.

Is it advisable to coat it with a latex paint or housewrap?

In General questions | Asked By David Rose | Sep 19 11
2 Answers

I am building a new house. The basement wall are ICF and the 1st floor is 2X4 walls with cellulose insulation on the interior and 1 1/2" rigid foam and 1/2" sheathing on the outside.

What is the best way to install the vinyl siding?

In General questions | Asked By John Truchan | Sep 18 11
10 Answers

My wife and I are planning a 2,100-square-foot house in Massachusetts. Here's the plan: a south-facing wall with glazing equal to 13% of the 1st floor area. A 5" radiant slab on grade with 4' frost wall on footings insulated with 4" of xps underneath with a stepped foundation top to minimize thermal bridging.

We were planning a 10 1/2" cavity double-stud wall with dense-pack damp-spray cellulose and lots of air sealing. Huber Zip System exterior sheathing with strapping and vertical pine siding sealed on all sides for a rainscreen wall.

In Plans Review | Asked By noah kaput | Sep 15 11
4 Answers

Hi,

In General questions | Asked By Mary Farrah | Sep 15 11
4 Answers

I am building a new home in Park City Utah at 7500’ which is a Climate Zone 6. The climate is relative dry as the average humidity is about 43% for the year.

I hired Heliocentric from SLC to work with my Architect to help maximize the efficiency of my new home which included 3D modeling overlaid with climate analysis and site solar survey. The result was a 35 page report detailing recommendations that are not only foreign but intimating to all the GC’s and sub contractors in the area. Consequently, I am forced to research the application of the recommendations myself.

In Green building techniques | Asked By dennis levine | Sep 17 11
18 Answers

Today's New York Times has an opinion piece that compares two approaches to addressing global warming: personal lifestyle changes versus government regulation (cap-and-trade or higher energy taxes).

It's no surprise which approach wins, in the opinion of the author, Gernot Wagner. Read the interesting analysis here: "Going Green but Getting Nowhere."

In General questions | Asked By Martin Holladay | Sep 8 11
2 Answers

I know this topic may have been beaten to death, but I'm struggling finding a definitive answer to my questions.

I live in zone 5b (Colorado east of Rockies). I am replacing my old cedar siding and windows at the same time with Hardiplank. This house was built in the early 70's. 2x4 construction, kraft-faced insulation. The exterior sheathing is about 3/4 fiberboard, in decent shape. It appears an R-5 is minimum for my area regarding rigid foam board. I had planned on using tyvek as well. I've read many papers at BuildingScience.com as well regarding this topic.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ian Anderson | Sep 16 11
7 Answers

We live in central Alberta, Canada. Our house has R-12 insulation in the walls with vapor barrier.

I would like to add some sort of insulation on the outside and put on new siding. I would like some suggestions on what type of foam product is best, etc.

Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Stephen Mitchell | Sep 13 11
7 Answers

On my new house design, it is a prairie style house with wide over hangs and low (3:12) pitches. I have a clearstory area that bumps up with a 4 way hip roof capping it off. Being the low pitch, and getting 14-16" of insulation up there, it fills up a lot of the roof.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Sep 15 11
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