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3 Answers

~10 degree difference between upstairs and downstairs rooms

I live in a 2 story single family ~1700 sq foot home where there is an uncomfortable 10 degree difference between the floors in the winter (too cold upstairs) and the summer (hot as hell upstairs).

We have a single thermostat on the main floor. Setting it to 72 in the winter leaves the upstairs around 65 and a sole bedroom in the front corner of our house is a few degrees cooler than that. That bedroom is what I need to address and it only has a single duct running to it. The temp slowly drops as the night goes on, leaving it quite chilly the next morning.

In General questions | Asked By Matt Duffey | Jan 6 16
17 Answers

Water-source heat pump sizing

My 2-ton Carrier water source heat pump needs replacing. It's a condo, so I own the heat pump & handler, but not the water loop. I think I'm going to replace with another Carrier, but I'm considering downsizing to a 1.5-ton unit.

In Mechanicals | Asked By David Hicks | Mar 19 15
6 Answers

Does anyone have experience with Dr. Energy SuperAttic?

I am considering having rigid foam board attached against the roof rafters (inside the attic). The sheets are attached and everything is caulked and sealed to make the attic within conditioned space. Obviously with this there is a lot of sealing details that have to be done right. I am considering it as an alternative to closed cell foam. I could do it myself with poliso or there is Dr. Energy franchises that do it . They call it SuperAttic. Does anyone have experience using foam sheathing this way or have had a SuperAttic installed?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kyle | Dec 31 15
4 Answers

Crawl space encapsulation

Hello everyone,

In Green building techniques | Asked By Chris | Jan 6 16
5 Answers

I am planning an air exchange system for my house

I am planning an air exchange system for my house and there are a few questions I have.
I am trying to decide between an HRV, an ERV, or a dehumidifier. I live in Maine and have remodeled my house by removing all old plaster and lathe. Then, build a second stud wall inside of that, creating a 9" cavity. I have done the same thing on the ceiling, creating a 14" cavity, these are dense pack cellulose.

In Green building techniques | Asked By George | Jan 5 16
3 Answers

New construction in Madison, CT (Zone 5)

I'm reading conflicting opinions on (central) humidifiers. New construction with open-cell spray foam insulation. Is a humidifier needed or advisable?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Justin | Jan 6 16
16 Answers

Are indoor air monitors worthwhile?

I have recently gotten notices of the release of Blueair and Awair. I am sure there are others on the market as well. Are indoor air monitors worthwhile? Accurate? Useless? I know that inside a tight house air quality can be more of an issue than an old leaky house, but is monitoring the best way to address the potential problem or some other approach?

In Green products and materials | Asked By A Lange | Dec 25 15
2 Answers

How do I repair this mudsill joint?

It looks like there is some kind of parging that is now crumbling, i could break it apart with a screwdriver pretty easily.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Alan | Jan 6 16
8 Answers

How to improve insulation in the corners of the house?

I live in a 1987 bi-level house and recently a thermal scan showed some cold spots in the corners and between the walls and ceiling and floor (as in pictures attached). However those spots are very difficult to access from the attic due to the slope of the roof, on top of that the attic has blown-in cellulose installed a few years ago, so it's almost impossible to navigate there for me. I am just curious if there is any method to improve insulation from inside the house instead of from the attic. Any other suggestions are very welcome! Thanks!

In General questions | Asked By Richard | Jan 5 16
3 Answers

Temporary cathedral ceiling improvement

I live in Nova Scotia, Canada (Climate zone 6) and I own a 1950’s cape style house. The roof line is insulated with very thin batts and a previous owner had cellulose blown into the small attic at the peak and into the floor area behind the knee walls. The knee walls also received R-20 fiberglass batts. These efforts appear to have helped, but the weak point is still the sloped ceiling. During the winter, there is often snow left on the top 2-3 feet of the roof and on the bottom 4-5 ft of the roof, but the area in between is always the first to melt. See attached image.

In General questions | Asked By Mark Fredericks | Jan 6 16
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