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16 Answers

Check out page 99 in this Radford book from 1911.
Quadruple Glazing, Management of Thermal Bridging...and
Ventilation without motors.
Lots of other good air barrier and water management details thru-out the book.

In Green building techniques | Asked By John Brooks | May 9 09
16 Answers

A new client has hired us to solve a chronic chimney leak problem. It is a unique convergence of roof angles and chimney. they have had a new crown installed in the recent past and it is in good shape. Their flues are terra cotta and are not capped. They said they had it pointed, but the photos show some need here. The only thing that has not been reworked is the flashing. I think removing the rubber and replacing with soldered copper pans, steps, and regletted counters may be in order.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Robert Post S.E. Pennsylvania Zone 4a | Dec 14 11
6 Answers

I am exploring concrete floors on the main level (over basement) to get some mass into the space. They would be stained and sealed to create the finished floor.

I am researching the use of ICF style forms that would allow a free span from wall to wall and eliminate the wood floor structure all together. An example is Lite-Deck, which costs around $3.25/sqft of floor surface for the form. (plus rebar and concrete).

The other option is a wood structure with (assumed) 2 layers of 3/4" subfloor, vapor barrier, and then 2-3" of light weight concrete.

The questions are:

In General questions | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 15 11
4 Answers

I've been reading in this site for about 3-4 weeks now and it has been a great resource.

Most of the homes discussed are warmer weather climates

I live in Northern Ontario (Canada) and will be building a new house in the spring. My building inspector in my area says it's a zone 2, but that does not tie into what I have been reading here. I consider it to be cold weather climate as we are about 4 hours drive north of Toronto.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Krmpotic | Dec 15 11
1 Answer

I am building a house (or rather my builder is, I am a semi-well read novice, not an expert at all) in Climate zone 4 in the western piedmont (near the foothills) of NC. We have relatively hot periods in the summer (several weeks of 90 deg +), and we have several weeks of below freezing temps in the winter. This is definitely a "Mixed" climate.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Patrick Steagall | Dec 15 11
5 Answers

I'm looking at the GBA details for insulated floors above garages and see that both use sleepers between the rigid foam under the floor trusses and the drywall ceiling.

Why not just attach the drywall through the foam? Any differences in the way you would do the assembly for an attic truss instead of the floor trusses shown?


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Hallie Bowie | Dec 14 11
11 Answers

I am proposing a project for a slab on grade Habitat house with 2" of foam under the slab and 1 1/2" or 2" of foam on top of the slab with 3/4" t&g plywood or osb floor. I want to float the plywood rather than use screeds to minimize thermal bridges. The interior walls are all non-bearing so they can be fastened to the plywood. I am certain that this is not an original idea so I would like to know if anyone has tried this and what the down side issues might be.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Philip Koepf | Dec 14 11
5 Answers

Hello all,

In Green products and materials | Asked By T Vermont | Dec 14 11
5 Answers

Last winter I ordered window inserts to beef up my double-pane, double-hung windows and I think the results were good. In the late spring I also installed double honeycomb cellular shades to abate summer heat (inserts in storage at this point).

The window inserts I use are from [insert name of company here]. They come with a heavy gauge film mounted on a frame and a foam gasket around the frame for fitting and airsealing. Essentially, they are seamless interior storm windows. The insulating shades are a close fit within the window frame.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Christopher Ring | Dec 14 11
6 Answers

I have a cape and have torn off the roof, added eaves and overhangs, moved the thermal boundary from the knee-walls to the gable walls and now am tweaking my approach on the roof/rafter bays.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Robert Post S.E. Pennsylvania Zone 4a | Dec 14 11
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