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6 Answers

USPTO patents and trademark are available for review, plus a recent ASME technical paper.


Please contact Brett Krippene at 928-592-9483 or by e mail.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Brett Krippene | Jul 8 11
60 Answers

I noticed an unusual comment in the comment section of this page:
The comment is about 1/3 down the page (posted May 16, 2011 by Katrin Klingenberg)

In a cooling climate, the delta T is much smaller than in a heating climate, and due to the internal heat gains insulation actually starts to work against you at a certain point. I think anything up to R30ish is doable/defendable for all components, including roof and suspended floor. Beyond that it will only add to your cooling problem.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Brooks | Jul 3 11
31 Answers

Does the big white fluffy stuff have the same R Value as the pink, blown in fiberglass insulation? I have heard it is less affective than R2.8.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kellye Markowski | Mar 16 10
4 Answers

With or without ducts in the attic, if the mean wintertime attic temps exceed the dew point of conditioned space air by some margin with the roof deck insulation is in place, moisture issues in the attic would be well-controlled, and in summertime even more so, with less access to humid outdoor air to condense on ducts. I've yet to hear/read any reasoning or analysis behind the practice (or of specific instances where leaving it in place caused a problem) yet it seems to be almost a standard with spray-foam installers, independent of climate zone or actual installed R-values.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dana Dorsett | Jul 8 11
7 Answers

The equivalent of low solar heat gain is high infrared reflectance. In the winter season, given that 1. there's more heat (infrared) inside the house, and 2. there are more hours of dark than daylight, and 3. the heating contractor has to keep you comfortable every hour (not just the seasonal average), does it make sense to have a window that reflects more heat at you in winter? Similar benefit in summer when you're trying to keep it cool inside.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Don Otto | Jul 7 11
4 Answers

I am in the process of building a house for a client in NE Washington DC. The architect has specified a rainscreen wall system with open (exposed) joints in the exterior cladding. Typical system would include 1/2" plywood sheathing, WRB, then batten strips, then exterior cladding (in this case it will be Hardie fiber cement siding panels 10ft x 8 inches) with 1/2inch thick batten strips.

In Green products and materials | Asked By tim mullen | Jul 7 11
4 Answers

I have read as many articles on this site as I can on the best methods for stucco and have learned a lot - like staying away from OSB if possible under the stucco...

With that in mind I would like to ask a few questions and make sure I understand the best methods and options available.

Details are as follows: Exterior Plywood Sheeting installed over 2x6 wood frame - interior insulation TBD - Zone 3 Marine moderate - heating climate - no cooling, decent rain exposure and some wind driven rain.

In General questions | Asked By Monty Worthington | Jul 7 11
10 Answers

There was a question about electric radiant floor heat mats several days ago. I've seen a product called Step Warm Floor that uses a graphite based strip and runs on low voltage electric that the manufacturer claims is much more efficient - they suggest is one of the most efficient heating methods around. It also costs about 4 times as much as the normal voltage electric mats. I'm no expert on electric theory so can't tell from the numbers if this would really work as advertised. Does this product have a track record of verified use? Any experience among participants here at GBA? Thanks.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Donald Lintner | Feb 15 10
2 Answers

Chris Briley, one of the Maine architects who hosts GBA's Green Architects' Lounge podcast series, was recently interviewed for an article published on the Mother Nature Network website.

Here's the link: Chris Briley: Green architect, big thinker.

In PassivHaus | Asked By Martin Holladay | Jul 7 11
12 Answers

I am building in Kansas City, MO and plan to use the "Perfect Wall" concept of 2x6 walls with Icynene and 1.5" of rigid foam on the exterior. I have not seen agreement on how to handle the window and door flashings. For instance, should the window flanges go over the foam at the window openings or should you line the window openings with a 2x4 so the window can be mounted into a solid piece of wood? This would provide a more stable connection, but negates the benefit of the thermal bridging provided by the foam.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Homoly | Jul 5 11
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