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4 Answers

These are probably academic questions; maybe just philosophic, or worse. (1) Do we humans add to global warming just by being here en mass? If we are pumping out 400 btu/hr (except the exercise freaks who pump out 1500-2000/hr when doing their thing), and there are X billion of us, do we add anything significant to the temperatures around us? (2) How about poorly insulated, over-sized houses? This one occurred to me today whilst talking about insulating under a slab with another cat.

In General questions | Asked By John Klingel | Jun 13 11
3 Answers

I am in Seattle in a moderate climate. In my new home we have an HSS post in a basement that goes down and is bolted to the footings. The HSS post is 20' tall and goes up to the 2nd story floor and above it rests a steel beam that expands the length of the building. There is no thermal break between the footing and the HSS post. So right now when I touch it, it is pretty cold. I'm pretty sure the best thing would have been to put a thermal break between the footing and the HSS post but that was not done and now everything else is in (stego wrap, insulation, rebar).

In General questions | Asked By Brandon Mullenberg | Jun 11 11
2 Answers

I am designing an EPDM hot roof with tapered rigid insulation over a 3/4" plywood deck on wood trusses in zone 4-5.

In order to create a flash-and-batt roof and have no condensation within the assembly, do I need to have a minimum of R-20 above the deck or can I have R-6.5 (1") above and R-13.5 below before I put in the dense-packed cellulose throughout the truss?

Finally, do I also need 10-mil poly between the rigid insulation and the str. decking?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By william kleinmann | Jun 10 11
6 Answers

I recently picked up some hardwood flooring(3/4" x 2 1/4") & noticed that a product called insulayment proports to insulate and act as a air barrier when used under the flooring. Is this a bit of a reach or is this a better option than red rosin or tar paper? I live in Massachusetts.

In General questions | Asked By john roy | Jun 9 11
8 Answers

Our lake cabin was built with the refrigerator next to the oven. Have read this is not feasible, but no option in changing the positions. What product can I double stick to the side of the refrigerator to protect it from the heat of the oven and burners?

In General questions | Asked By carol ann Wetherby | Jun 7 11
5 Answers

How does one finish the bottom edge of the exterior rigid insulation to prevent water seeping up? Is there a place to download typical wall sections of insulation applied on the outside including the drip edge, insect screen, insulation extending below grade, etc?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Annie Roberts | Jun 9 11
8 Answers

Noxious odor comes in house. Now in the central air conditioning unit as well. Can't open the windows, can't put on the air conditioner. Getting symptoms from this. Had to spend three days in a hotel because of heat wave we had and the inability to cool down house and rid house of noxious fumes.

Contacted GAF (company that manufactures the shingles). They say take it up with the contractor and have hime get an HVAC man. Contractor not cooperating.

Can you give me some information as to:

1. the dangers of inhaling these fumes.

2. additional symptoms.

In General questions | Asked By Pat | Jul 12 10
4 Answers

I don't want to open another debate on the unvented -- vented attic debate but...

Building single story gabled (8:12) roofed home in CZ 4A. Built on a concrete slab with ductwork planned for the attic and trusses in the roof.

What would be the best way to protect the airhandler and ductwork other than a unvented attic?

If you were to insulate a gable end wall in the attic with dense pack cellulose how would you install the insulation when the wall is built with 2X4 on flat (truss)? How wide could the bays be? Construct bays out of osb and 2X4?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Nooncaster | Jun 9 11
5 Answers

I'm looking around for good detail for flashing a window I'm installing in 12" concrete block (with a 2x4 buck). There's no exterior foam or housewrap there. Do I just extend a layer of Grace Vycor across the gap from the buck to the concrete on every side below the nailing flange, lapped for positive drainage, tape again at the sides and top and leave weep at the bottom, then double up using heavy beads of watersealing adhesive behind trim boards, and foam from inside?

That's a whole lot of tape by the time I'm done....

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster | Jun 8 11
2 Answers

I was in an attic with blown-in cellulose insulation that was installed in 1987. The insulation is generally uniform (though with some areas lower than others) and is installed at 12" high, or about R-40 - not bad for 1987, but not to current standards in Northern Ontario. The installer's form was available from back in 1987 showing a density of 2.35 lbs/ft3 - about 45% higher than the manufacturer's website recommends. Will this negatively affect the actual R-value performance?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Aaron Dent | Jun 9 11
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