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11 Answers

How do I fix these insulation issues?

My home was built in 1998 and the design specifications and materials seem to
be good quality: 2x6 wall framing, Tyvek, and 6" fiberglass bats covered with
8" of blown fiberglass in the ceiling. The home is two stories though the 2nd
story floor space is much smaller than the 1st. Also, the entry way and living room on
the 1st floor have 12' ceilings while the rest of the 1st floor has 9'
ceilings. Some of the entry way space is taken up by a built in closet which
has a 9' ceiling.

First problem: inspecting the insulation above this closet, I found that the

In General questions | Asked By D Mikulec | Dec 5 11
6 Answers

Wood Floor, Concrete slab, and Moisture

Hi all, I had a question about proper installation of a wood floor on a concrete slab.

Assuming the slab has been moisture tested (and passes with flying colors), would it be alright to just put a plywood subfloor and finished wood floor on top? Or would I still be at risk of a mold issue in the future?

In Interior design | Asked By Jay Sheth | Dec 29 11
7 Answers

Building professional in the Colorado area

Is there a list of residential building engineers in the Denver, CO area that could analyze my home for a balanced ventilation system?

What is the title for such an engineer who could work with our local HVAC contractor?

Thanks in advance for all advice.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Arvin Gilman | Dec 30 11
4 Answers

Insulating bathroom

Hello...

I know this has been debated, but I am just curious as to some more outlook on the best option here. I just ripped out a bathroom with one exterior wall. The wall was insulated with foil-faced fiberglass batts --- after ripping them out I saw they had mold on the side contacting the house sheathing. The home is 100 years old --- wood sheathing with stucco outside.

In General questions | Asked By Jason Schatz | Dec 30 11
6 Answers

Walk-in attic moisture problem

My 50+ year old house has a walk-in attic that we use for storage. There is moisture on the roof decking and some mold in the winter. The soffits are vented, there are 2 gable vents and a roof fan. The mold is mostly on the side that faces north and is more toward the roof line than the peak. I have weather stripping on the door and have glued 1" insulating foam board to the door in hopes of reducing heat entering the attic via the door. I have tried to seal off as many source of heat entering the attic that I can find. There is about 6 inches of insulation, not sure of the R value.

In General questions | Asked By Morris Goldstein | Dec 29 11
10 Answers

Has anyone seen a solar thermal system that includes an insulated cistern for large thermal storage in the winter and then shifted to water use in the summer?

It seems to me that cisterns are most valuable in the summer for irrigation purposes and in the winter are not used. thermal storage can be used more in winter for space heating as well as domestic water, especially with radiant floors. Insulating the cistern and having a heat exchanger that could be disconnected in the summer and the solar go directly to a Solar water heater for domestic use would make the tank twice as useful.

In Mechanicals | Asked By boone guyton | Sep 26 09
1 Answer

Does the gas line into a fireplace need to be foamed?

The gas line into the fireplace surround has a perforation to insert the line. Does the opening need fireproof foam added, since it is an interior wall?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By steven churney | Dec 29 11
1 Answer

North-facing solar skylight tube a bad idea?

I've been reading a bit of information about the best places to put windows for energy efficiency. I know in Passive Solar buildings you want to minimize or eliminate north-facing windows. But does this rule still apply when doing a solar tube skylight?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jason Schaffer | Dec 28 11
11 Answers

Spray Foam Confused

I have an 1,100-sq.-ft. 2-story Cape with two 14 ft. dormers for bedrooms on the 2nd floor. It is 90 years old, currently gutted. I want to insulate it well, but within some equitable reason.

Currently, the house has 1/2-inch rigid foam, R-3.6, on the exterior walls. I want to spray the roof line and enclose the whole envelope.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Scott Jacobs | Dec 21 11
6 Answers

Installation of mineral wool insulation in shop

First question ever asked here. We're building a shop in Upstate SC, mixed humid climate. We are insulating it for comfort so it can easily be used year round. We chose mineral wool insulation for its fireproof properties. The studs are 2 x 6 so they are using 3" mineral wool and 2" mineral batts. They have used a minimally expanding foam around all the studs, electrical outlets, any penetrations. That looks good. I am concerned about the compression as they stuff the mineral wood in. I've got a few pictures I will try to attach.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lucy Foxworth | Dec 25 11
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